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2018 VW Golf Sportwagen
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So i do get 12v on the remote when it feeds one amp. But once i chain from one amp to the other, down to 6 and neither come on. I did read a post about someone having a similar issue and they said there's an internal fuse that someone replaced with a smaller one. I don't recall if it was for a bit or if it was a head unit. I've got an email to elettromedia usa. I'm running the latest firmware so that shouldn't be it. For gain setting sake, I'll just do one at a time til i hear back or tap the 12v in the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So i do get 12v on the remote when it feeds one amp. But once i chain from one amp to the other, down to 6 and neither come on. I did read a post about someone having a similar issue and they said there's an internal fuse that someone replaced with a smaller one. I don't recall if it was for a bit or if it was a head unit. I've got an email to elettromedia usa. I'm running the latest firmware so that shouldn't be it. For gain setting sake, I'll just do one at a time til i hear back or tap the 12v in the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Got impatient. Wanted to feel a little accomplishment in the car. Hooked up the hiby r3 dap. To my dismay, it's only pushing 1v. Website said 2v. My phone does .9v so why have the added equipment? Threw a 1khz tone in there and set the gains on the 5 channel amp. Running widebands and rear doors only. Maxing out at 90w to the wb and 75w to the rear focal. I can't hear the rears which most would say is a good thing. I was hoping for a little mid bass but i do have them crossed at 100hz. Their fs is 83hz i think. I keep telling myself it's just some rear fill, all that work wasn't a waste of time. But these wb on axis dominate the car at the moment. Very pleased with them so far. They're crossed at 600hz. Supposedly can go to 250hz but that's not needed.
 

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2018 golf R
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So if you’re getting voltage drop with more than one amp connected to the remote out of DSP, you should definitely do like me and use a relay to turn on al the amps. My dsp even has that written in the manual. Not too complicated, just gotta know which pin on the relay to connect to what.
 

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Also, for the rear fill, after watching many vids from pssound and other, but mostly PSsound, they actually say that the rear fill helps to add a sort of echo effect and make the space feel larger. If some right they can be really great. For the most part I believe they run rear fill in mono and only above a certain frequency - I’ll have to try and find the video again but was really interesting how Peter from pssound described the functionality of rear fills. Hence why I opted to keep them in my system. Eventually I’ll probably swap the 2-channel for another 4-channel and do an actual 3-way up front. I hope LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Maybe i had higher expectations for the rear. They can probably handle a bit more power but I know they're supposed to be barely there. I can't wrap my head around the mono l-r or whatever theory. I don't understand how it helps if everything else is aligned distance wise. Seems counter intuitive. But most people would say that it's the best way to do rear if you're going to. I'll Google the relay.i really don't want to pull that rear panel to get to the 12v plug. I might have to ask for your expertise on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Need some advice please. Regarding my remote voltage issue. 2 amps connected to the remote out from the bit result in 6v at each amp terminal. Running from bit just to the ID amp i get 12v. Just bit to clarion i get 6.1v. i don't know if the clarion even turned on. Granted this was early this morning before going to work. I'll have to review ohms law and stuff. Something aint kosher with the clarion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Scratch that, not 6v but 0.6v. i pulled the old fuses out. They had a good layer of oxidation so i grabbed some shiny new ones. Tested like 0.001 ohm each. Put them in and no luck. I know my troubleshooting has been brief but is the amp dead? Guess I'll test my ground point. Something is causing massive resistance with that clarion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I'm taking the clarion apart to hunt down the problem. When i pull the terminal end off, I see the markings for power, ground and remote again. I realized that i believe i had the power wire going to remote and remote to power. I think. Could it be so simple? Going to reinstall it in a bit. Hopefully i didn't fry it or the remote from the bit by pulling too many amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
After my wiring snafu, i set the gains on the clarion. It's rated at 130wpc bridged. I had it to 160w without signs of distortion on my scope. Gotta love class a/b. I backed off the dsp output about 1db to get to a safer 138wpc. If only the id was as clean. Rated at 100wpc. At 90 i can see slight distortion. But the sub channel is clean at 525w. Overall pretty happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
First impression of the cdt unity 7.5 widebands: overall sound is very good. Not harsh. Playing from 700hz up without any noticable trouble. I have them on axis and the drivers side is rather close to me. I do hear a decrease in db off axis. Its like it's a very narrow dispersion at least that close. Might try to push them all the way to the windshield corners. But snares really pop and vocals sound nice to my ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The molex demon strikes again. This time with an airbag warning! I had to re pin 2 connectors. Took one off then put in it's new spot. Then the other. Cleaned inside the plugs to remove plastic bits. Of course the plug in the car side didn't fully click into the metal so it's a bit loose. That could be the problem. I'll investigate tomorrow. I was working on the passenger door so hopefully it's only affecting that side and it's not a fully working or not scenario. Then again maybe it will go away once i drive a bit. I did switch the car on to try to drop the window with the molex unplugged. Duh. Positive note, passenger front speaker is in and working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Got it sorted. Seems to be secure. Locks and everything work. Had to use vcds to turn off the airbag fault warning. I should know better than to turn on the car with harnesses unplugged. Hopefully can tackle the drivers side this weekend. I sure do miss a sub though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
After a small hiatus and a random tropical storm this morning, i was able to make some cuts on the sub box false floor. Lumber is on short supply so i used some pine for my under floor, top of box support. Cut a recess for the box to fit into then will glue the box in. Then mount the pine to the false floor. Then carpet. The pine hole is big because the sub box will be off center in the spare tire and i need a little wiggle room. But the sub itself will be center in the floor.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
If anyone wants to throw a "WTF is that" out there, i won't be mad. I'm thinking the same thing. It's not as structurally sound as I'd like it. I abandoned the fiberglass step as i really pissed off the Mrs with my last glass project. It was my first time using glass mat and i cut it with scissors to make strips. Glass fibers were everywhere. They made their way into the house and baby girl had a piece on her face. Had to vacuum the garage, driveway and indoors a few times. So this is just 6 coats of resin and some prayers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Bass progress today in the frigid 40s in FL. Sub and half of the false floor installed. Can't fire it up cause the caulk and adhesive isn't dry. Hopefully have an enjoyable ride to work in the morning. Still have to put some braces under the floor and i think I'll have to notch the part by the back seat corners.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Anyone with bit one experience? I'm running a hi res player through aux into the bit. My input gain is at 2v before i get clipping on a cheap rta. That's with a 1khz sine wave at -.002db. all my music is at the same max level. The bit has input eq 31 bands. I'm assuming my source is flat. Would it be worth a damn to go along each band and eq the input just below clipping? I just did the 1khz. What if the other bands are lower level? My dmm won't get accurate voltages above 12 or 14khz. But the rta will keep up. I don't think it will auto eq the aux input only the master. Maybe I'm putting too much emphasis on getting a flat input?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well I'm rather underwhelmed. Seems like the sub is only getting 50watts. When i set it up with the laptop and rta and dmm, it should be getting 525w. Tested the terminal on the box and it reads 1.8ohm so my wiring is solid. I had the software maxed out on sub level and master level. My drc remote screen is blank so it's possible the sub level is turned down there. Shoot, could have fade and balance all jacked up too for all i know. Hopefully tomorrow i can get the sub level turned up on the drc if that's the problem. I hope the box isn't flexing so much that it causes that kind of output. I've got 1cu ft which should be close to ideal for the idq10.
 
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