Ordered a new drc cable hoping the cable is bad. The drc screen lights up but it has no pixels. I'll return it if the cable doesn't fix it. I turned the sub volume up on the drc today with little success. I get low bass but nothing with authority in the higher sub region. Amp crossover is wide open so hopefully it's in the software. Weather sucks now so I'll try to see what's up in the morning. I feel like i should start these posts with "dear diary"
2018 sportwagen build
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I had the sub crossed at 100hz Butterworth 12db. Changed to LR 100gz 12db and it sounds better but still puny in the higher range. I'm going to have to recheck my voltage across more than just 40hz. I suspect there's a bump at 40 then drop off. I'll open up the crossover and make some adjustments. Might even remount the sub. I have it sitting on the carpet so I don't trust the seal.
Rechecked voltages across all the sub range with the crossover on full. There was a very small bump up at 35 but smooth everywhere else. Also found the sub amp gain was down a click so it was only getting about 450w. Turned it up then backed off the dsp level 1db to get it at 525 upwards to 550. Also pushed the crossover up to 120 which is way higher than i want but we'll see how that sounds. Re mounted the sub to remove the carpet under the frame and made a ccf gasket. In the process, i stripped at least half the screw holes. Sigh. I'll get some larger diameter screws next week. Also will report back about the sound. My umik is now shipping the first week of March. Another sigh.
To update the stalled progress... I've come to terms that my sub box isn't going to cut it. Probably not rigid enough. It's really lacking in the 80hz ish range. Air space is good but something isn't right. Going to build a real box from 3/4 mdf. Umik came in through someone on the forum. Waiting for ball joints from Germany for the pods. Fabbed up one abs little triangle window mount. Going to bridge the image dynamics 5 channel to the front doors. Ditch the rears. Or could bridge it to a pair of 6.5 subs, sub channel to the 10 or upgrade to a 12 and get a bigger 4 channel. We'll see how that progresses. 0ga power wire coming. Basically new build. Sorry no pics and lots of words.
Got some 0ga to run. Pulled the rears and put the factory ones back in. Didn't have the right size screws and my rivet gun is too bulky to get close to the mounting ring. Ended up using some zip ties run through the holes. Seems secure enough for the next person lol sorry. Got some hertz 165xl to replace the front hertz. 8mm xmax vs 4mm and more power handling? Why not. New audison remote looks good. Need to fab up a better mount and make it nice. Next post will have pics.
Scored a set of hertz hv 165 xl from a member here and replaced my hertz hv 165L up front. These new ones handle 125w each vs 100 for the old. Xmax is 8mm vs 4mm. Hoping to feed them 150w from 80 to 500hz. That will take me figuring out how to send signal from the dsp to the 5 channel and bridge it. I don't want to use splitters so I'm going to have channel 5 and 6 be identical signals which will go to amp front left and rear left. Same with 3 and 4 but go front right and rear right. Front right pos and rear right neg is one speaker. Then front left and rear left to the other.
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Got the bit set for the bridge. Amp tested. Clean signal bridged at the moment. Pushing 150 to 160w each. Couldn't get them exactly the same voltage. I think i can turn down one of the paired outs .5 db lower and get the two out puts more even but i don't know if that's a no no.
Haven't been happy with my pods having to tape them to the dash. Ordered some used a pillars to mount to. Don't like nav and calls coming out of the front stock tweeters. Going to recode the radio for speaker out and use the factory deck. Don't like the half assed sub tube i did so I'm making a real mdf box for a dayton ho12 with passive radiator. Pics when it gets some traction.
I've done a lot with sonotube, if you dont want the glass mess just milkshake the bejesus out of it. works a treat for me 
I got crazy one time and bought the next size down and used it as its meant to be used, put one tube in the other and filled the space between them with concrete. talk about solid!
I got crazy one time and bought the next size down and used it as its meant to be used, put one tube in the other and filled the space between them with concrete. talk about solid!
Big thanks to @jrobie79 and @Jehay1 for getting stage II together for me. Box plans were perfection. I did not however allow for box carpet in my measuring so it's really snug in there. Probably don't need the strap but it's there just in case this 1.8t gets wild. Sub and pr look good. Still need to fire it up but i expect quality bass which i haven't had since 3 jl 10w6 back in 99.
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Oddly enough, i get no sound from the sub. Terminal on the box reads 2ohm. Continuity on the amp to sub wires. Dsp is not muted. Sub voice coils read 3.8 or so each before installing it. I didn't take the sub out of the box to triple check the wiring but if it's 2 at the terminal then that should be good. Suggestions?
For those who read the last post, i found my problems...i thought i set up the dsp and amp gain for the sub weeks before the box went it. Turns out it was only pushing 24v. Bumped that up to 33v, close as i could get to my target of 34.6 or 600w without cranking the gain up another click and getting distortion. Additionally i wired the sub in some stupid config where the leads from the box terminal each went to a positive coil. I'm surprised i didn't kill it. Lesson here, make sure there's plenty of light when wiring especially for the red/green color blind community. The red looked a lot like black.
Still super disappointed. I had left and right sub out from the bit one. Figured that might be a problem so i did the single sub out through a Y Rca to the amp. Made a bit of a difference. Re did the gains of course... Again. Terminal at the box reads 1.9ohm. bass is still not what i was hoping for from a 12 and passive radiator. The pr barely moves. Nor does my rear view mirror. A known indicator of bass power. Anything above 50hz is puny at best. Similar issue with the previous sub. Source is either my phone or dap so the signal should be damn near flat. Before i buy a new dsp, anyone have a suggestion?
Will know later today. What i did yesterday was pull the poly fill out as i remember stuffing it in the bracing which may have impeded pressure to the pr. Also found the same voltage on the inside of the box terminal as at the amp output. So the amazon terminal cup is ok. I didn't trust my sub wiring as i used it on my previous sub which had the same shortcomings. So i made a new piece of wire and triple checked dvc parallel diagrams. Fingers crossed.
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