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Well... I think I'll stop worrying about it, get the system hooked up, tune it and if it sounds good, it sounds good. If it doesn't, then I'll take it a step further.
the stock head unit does have some odd stuff going on. Pink noise test with the same speaker using each input channel showed different REW curves and levels.
 

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When you say, "each input channel", there are really only 4. FL, FR, RL and RR. Are you saying that they differed side to side as well as front to rear? I can't wait to get my RTA going with the Helix to see what's going on.
I can tell you the signal from the front is easily 4 times the level of the front when fader and balance are set to center. It's almost non existent. The question of left to right i hadn't even thought about until now. Damn that's messed up, makes me wish I'd replaced it already. LOL

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
 

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I can tell you the signal from the front is easily 4 times the level of the front when fader and balance are set to center. It's almost non existent. The question of left to right i hadn't even thought about until now. Damn that's messed up, makes me wish I'd replaced it already. LOL

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
I did notice while I was scoping the front-left signal at the midbass speaker terminal, that whensetting the HU all the way to the left, it didn't do much of anything. I didn't have much time to play with it that day, but once I pop the panels off again to start sound deadening, I'll see if I can scope both sides. When you say "4 times the level of the front" did you mean 4 times the level of the "rear"? I do notice the rear speakers in this car are barely audible. My kids complain all the time.

I'll be happy to get it altogether and still maintain hands-free phone usage. I may not even be able to do that. lol
 

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Yes sorry that's exactly what I meant, my bad. Yeah there's not much output from them. I can say that when i went "dumb" with my system and had the front and rear inputs both to my LC6-1200 it was nice to have that little bit from the rear. And yes definitely you'll be able to keep your hands free etc even if you use only the front inputs as I am right now.


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Yes sorry that's exactly what I meant, my bad. Yeah there's not much output from them. I can say that when i went "dumb" with my system and had the front and rear inputs both to my LC6-1200 it was nice to have that little bit from the rear. And yes definitely you'll be able to keep your hands free etc even if you use only the front inputs as I am right now.


Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
The only issue I see is if I'm using the Bluetooth directly connected to the helix I'm not going to be able to hook up to the car's Bluetooth for a phone call to come in because I think you can only hook up to one Bluetooth Source at a time at least with my old-ass phone! LOL (Galaxy S7)
 

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When you say, "each input channel", there are really only 4. FL, FR, RL and RR. Are you saying that they differed side to side as well as front to rear? I can't wait to get my RTA going with the Helix to see what's going on.
You answered your own question
Each of the four channels had different outputs. FL, FR, RL, RR.. The output from side to side is about a full DB difference and it is suggested to tune the input if you are using at least the 2018+ Base HU as that's what I tested.

At the end of the day you still won't be able to correct for all the issues built into factory head-unit. It comes down to if you can live with the small changes throughout the volume spectrum.

I think for me I am going to pull the trigger on a Joying head unit with a digital out.


The final test for me was I tuned the setup using stock HU.
Unplugged high level, used my test bench Alpine with 4v preamp and NO TA,EQ nothing hooked up to low level and the difference required enough for a tune change by a good bit. Still looking into the best option as I had really hoped keeping OEM integration and not adding a bunch of extra steps to using the radio.

Also, I believe the OP and you Frequent flyer are using a larger midbass like the GB60 Even crossed at 80 the doors need a TON of help, I can start off by saying after using MANY different door setups the best and simplest has been:

Peel and stick on the inner door around both beams as the door skin can vibrate here. Next cover up the thin metal on inside of the door panel with peel and stick, 1LB MLV, and a layer of CCF on each side. A very solid mount for the woofer, Riv nuts, and foam rings to seal to the door. I also went to range rover and picked up some of the OEM door panel clips. They are backed with foam where they meet the door and offered a more firm lock. That was key to some of my issues.

If crossing any lower then 65 for any reason good luck with the doors.
 

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I hadn't even thought about a level difference side to side on these at all, that's nuts but I guess they do it for a reason for the stock setup. I will say that I tried the following and the difference was stark. I used a simple headphone to rca adapter cable and using that i swapped between the stock head unit and the phone while both playing the same file of pink noise going into the AC D6-1200. The input RTA was very noticeably flat/flatter using the phone through the headphone adapter compared to the stock head unit. There are a couple pictures of this on my build log thread. So yeah changing head unit is definitely and upgrade worth the money and effort which may be in my near future.

I haven't always heard good things about the audio quality on those Joying head units, have they gotten better?

Yes the doors need a lot of help to deaden those things. I covered those things pretty good I think and they're pretty quiet. I ordered a different speaker adapter that i hope will make sure things on the 6.5" are sturdy. Don't love the Metra speaker adapters.

Frequent, old or newer phone won't make a difference as far as the Bluetooth connection. Even though you can have 2 "components" connected to the phone via Bluetooth, only 1 will do the audio at a time. I've got a OnePlus 7T and I have the same issue I either stream via Bluetooth or have hands free through the radio not both. Thats why so many on this forum use a separate source for Bluetooth. Now, if we were to replace the headunit with a quality replacement I'm sure that would make the point a bit mute.Then we could (conceivably) have our cake and eat it to!
 

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I hadn't even thought about a level difference side to side on these at all, that's nuts but I guess they do it for a reason for the stock setup. I will say that I tried the following and the difference was stark. I used a simple headphone to rca adapter cable and using that i swapped between the stock head unit and the phone while both playing the same file of pink noise going into the AC D6-1200. The input RTA was very noticeably flat/flatter using the phone through the headphone adapter compared to the stock head unit. There are a couple pictures of this on my build log thread. So yeah changing head unit is definitely and upgrade worth the money and effort which may be in my near future.

I haven't always heard good things about the audio quality on those Joying head units, have they gotten better?

Yes the doors need a lot of help to deaden those things. I covered those things pretty good I think and they're pretty quiet. I ordered a different speaker adapter that i hope will make sure things on the 6.5" are sturdy. Don't love the Metra speaker adapters.

Frequent, old or newer phone won't make a difference as far as the Bluetooth connection. Even though you can have 2 "components" connected to the phone via Bluetooth, only 1 will do the audio at a time. I've got a OnePlus 7T and I have the same issue I either stream via Bluetooth or have hands free through the radio not both. Thats why so many on this forum use a separate source for Bluetooth. Now, if we were to replace the headunit with a quality replacement I'm sure that would make the point a bit mute.Then we could (conceivably) have our cake and eat it to!

I made this for my AF. It's free to download. If you do not have a 3d Printer you can have them made online and shipped to you. If you using another driver I can mod it for you!

In regards to the Joying, it was the only Android device with a digital out I was able to find.

I do love the idea of doing more with the head unit, however, I loathe losing the OEM look. The Dasita PX6 was a second choice but still only analog out. I am not sure if it's even worth it with most music played to bother with digital but wanted the best bang for the buck. Also fearful that some internal EQ, TA may not be able to be turned off.

I miss the days of CD players and simple flat eq output lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #71

I made this for my AF. It's free to download. If you do not have a 3d Printer you can have them made online and shipped to you. If you using another driver I can mod it for you!

In regards to the Joying, it was the only Android device with a digital out I was able to find.

I do love the idea of doing more with the head unit, however, I loathe losing the OEM look. The Dasita PX6 was a second choice but still only analog out. I am not sure if it's even worth it with most music played to bother with digital but wanted the best bang for the buck. Also fearful that some internal EQ, TA may not be able to be turned off.

I miss the days of CD players and simple flat eq output lol.
How do you think the printing materials available compare to something like HDPE or the like sonically? Also I know my setup is rather cumbersome in nature, but depending on your source choices it is possible to retain the OEM radio and bluetooth integration with your DAP while also using a digital usb connection to an external DAC. My phone does exactly that and with UAPP I can still send bit for bit to the DAC. To me this is optimal. Even if I had a 9" aftermarket display it would only be used in the same limited capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I finally got the URC3 which means I'm now able to take advantage of the bit for bit output. What a surprisingly significant difference it made to take out whatever processing the phone/UAPP was doig.

(y) :giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #75
USB Audio Player Pro (UAPP) on your android device lets you send bit for bit data to your external DAC. (The other super benefit of UAPP is that you can stream Tidal through it with the same perfect quality.)
 

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USB Audio Player Pro (UAPP) on your android device lets you send bit for bit data to your external DAC. (The other super benefit of UAPP is that you can stream Tidal through it with the same perfect quality.)
From what I've read, UAPP is just for USB to DAC (hence the named USB Audio Player Pro). Is there anything out there for Bluetooth or I am just limited to using Android's basic audio player and/or internet based sources like Youtube?
 

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Discussion Starter #77
We are a community of marginal gains. You think I'm going to leave something on the table when it costs 8 bucks? Sir, please.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Bluetooth versus a wired connection is a personal decision that may do nothing at all or it may make a difference. Up for everyone to decide for themselves :]
 
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