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There are so many WRX builds. Not surprising though the are cool cars and we are cool people. 😁
F***ing ay!
Sorry just cruising the forum and found your build, only halfway read through it but couldn't help but give that sentence a 'hell yeah'!
🤘:ROFLMAO:🤘
ps: every time i see @beerdrnkr 's wiring and spare tyre arrangement I am reminded that I am NOT a pro at car audio :( lol
 

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F***ing ay!
Sorry just cruising the forum and found your build, only halfway read through it but couldn't help but give that sentence a 'hell yeah'!

ps: every time i see @beerdrnkr 's wiring and spare tyre arrangement I am reminded that I am NOT a pro at car audio :( lol
That's how I feel with 90% of the installs on this site! Lol

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Okay team Subaru, I have an idea.

Put both of your sun visors down.

That's my idea.

They are thick and foam and dense and felt and textured and wonderful. I'll be driving around with my visors down from now on! :cool:

Following in beerdrinker's footsteps I'll throw a dash mat on there in a week or two when it arrives. Hopefully the combo can make me feel better about everything!
 

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LMAO but seriously these are fun cars to own and modify. Your builds are inspirations!

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
Right on...if you own a WRX (STi or not) don't expect to be lighting up every car on the road and don't expect to NOT have any issues if you mod around a bit.
Just have a fun daily driver and enjoy it (y)
 

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Bluetooth versus a wired connection is a personal decision that may do nothing at all or it may make a difference. Up for everyone to decide for themselves :]
Sorry to drop in randomly with stuff that has 'been and gone'...but as I am doing my build currently I am reading up on other peoples...
However I just wanted to say (just FWIW) that the above statement was VERY well worded...I dabble in home and pro audio as well; and being able to say the above in an ambivalent objective manner was really;;;amazing actually!
I am completely bigoted against Bluetooth. Some guys get edgy about introducing too many DAC to ADC conversions in their signal chain; let alone Bluetooth-ing music...but each to their own is much more friendly way to say what I really mean!

Moving along...

Installing fibreglass to your doors is not something I have seen before...in fact the treatment that you put into your doors is pretty intense IMHO...I would be interested in your opinion on it. All that I have done so far (though it is pending) is treat the outer skin with CLD in much the same manner as yourself, put some CCF behind the speakers, treat a few areas of the inner leaf with CLD (areas that sound tinny when tapped on) and then coat the whole inner leaf with a layer of CCF/MLV/CCF. On reflection I should be a little more thorough with CLD to the inner door skin and fill some voids in the door card with <something> (cheers for the build log that pricked my laziness!); but I don't know about wrapping up insulation and putting it into the doors...wow. Is it a common thing to do nowadays? I have been away from car audio for a while...

Lastly on the whole 'music source', USB with external DAC and the lengthy discussion there...would I be right in saying that a lot of that would be a non issue if the head unit was swapped out? It sounds as if a few are talking about piggybacking another source to the DSP and removing the head units frailties in the process? Maybe I have read that all wrong...but if not it kind of suggests 'head unit swap' to me...I wanted to raise the question because it sounded like a head unit swap would render all of the discussion moot...again unless I missed something...

Just FWIW...I have spoken at length with a reputable installer/retailer over East of Oz and discussed on a previous forum about optical connections quite a while ago, Bear in mind that at that time there were few (and they were very expensive) head units that gave an optical out anyway. Regardless said installer had run RCA's and run optical in the same car and done a full side by side test. No difference in sound (or anything else) was his conclusion; and was the consensus of the forum members as well. With the caveat being that you didn't have induced noise in the RCA cables; but then again on that was the statement that if you used 'decent' RCA's (not Stinger 9000 series, but good!) and did the install properly you shouldn't have any induced noise anyway.

Each person do what you think is best, no problems there! I just wanted to give my two cents; because at the time Helix DSP's were just rolling out and they had an optical in so suddenly the question came up. As I said...at that time it meant spending big dollars just to run an optical connection to the boot (the trunk) of the car (like $2k - sorry that is Aussie dollars - minimum for a reasonable head unit with optical out). Maybe things have changed and it is more affordable, or maybe I misread the post in parts and the last two paragraphs are just useless information...not sure; but thought I would share in the off chance it helps anyone (y) possibly just a note that in my experience (prove me wrong if I am!) optical cables and connections won't add anything to car audio.

The RTA stuff I just haven't looked into yet! I have been through the Helix software - and read a little of the users manual on REW - but whilst I can mostly follow what you are talking about...still a lot of it is probably stuff that I will have to come back to :D I can't help but say that again one issue that seemed to be discussed about having to 'undo' what the OEM head unit had done to the signal...shit it really seems like a headache that could be avoided...

Doesn't matter what I say anyway! Mainly because it is archaic and I probably am talking about the wrong thing regardless...but great install man 🤟.

Peace
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Although I have the hardware to integrate, there is no way to do it without manipulating the signal. And why bother when I can hardwire?

My biggest concern is UAPP has been giving me lots of issues recently. I'm nearly ready to go apple so I can use the god damn native Tidal app.

The doors are done this way by "lots" of people, though I definitely did a lazy job of it.
 

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The doors are done this way by "lots" of people, though I definitely did a lazy job of it.
Cool...it isn't something I have ever seen before (but I have been out of the loop for a while as noted previously!). It actually really caught my eye because of your mention of 'Owens Corning 703'...

Long and boring story short - I have created a soundproof room/studio in one of my spare bedrooms for the sake of doing what I love yet whilst not being overly anti-social (drums are LOUD...I'm sure all may have heard some loud car stereo in their lives; but if I go berserk on my drum kit for only a couple minutes without hearing protection my ears will be ringing for at least ten minutes after!) - anyway in the process of DIY'ing the whole thing I read a bunch of American books and forums on soundproofing (makes sense). They all refer to 703! I think because it must be so well known in America (?) it is often used as an example/benchmark when guys were talking about soundproofing rooms.

The issue was that being Aussie I have never heard of 703 and I don't think it is available here; so I had to figure out what the hell everyone was talking about and buy the appropriate substitute when I did my room :ROFLMAO: FWIW it is not the right material to use for sound isolation - it is OK, but there are specialist brands that are more suited - but it was still constantly referred to in reference to sound attenuation of a room as (I only assume) it was so readily available and well known! It was also a much cheaper alternative to the 'specialist brands' and was used by many who were strapped for cash.

This is Aussie dollars so it might be a little obscure...but it cost about $6k for me (I DIY'ed EVERYTHING as well) to sound isolate and sound treat a bedroom; and about 30% of that cost was in a very good (but not the best) acoustic insulation.

That's my version of cutting a story short...sorry, no dragons in there either :sleep:

Anyway...a box of Dynamat is about $250 at the moment and a pack of decent insulation to do my entire car and put some in my roof is about $60...so no problems there (y)

Although I have the hardware to integrate, there is no way to do it without manipulating the signal. And why bother when I can hardwire?

My biggest concern is UAPP has been giving me lots of issues recently. I'm nearly ready to go apple so I can use the god damn native Tidal app.
100% agreed. I remember on a previous forum getting shot down when I suggested the irrelevance of a head unit if you could just send an 'auxiliary' signal to your DSP. Good to see that I was actually able to think into the future a few years...

...however the caveat with that was the ability to control the 'auxiliary' signal. It was easy to plug in an external HD...but back then only a tablet was the really viable way to control the signal to the DSP (and IIRC) there were inherent issues with that anyway.

Absolutely no offence intended to yourself or anyone else with the next statement; I guess it is a way of making sure I am still somewhat up to speed with the basics! I have not heard of the app's that guys are referring to and don't completely understand how a lot of what is being said correlates to an input signal to the DSP...however I do know that my head unit plays flac's, has a USB in, and RCA's out......so.......yeah......
Apologies as I just say what I think...it just takes too long to 'euphimise' things. I can only apologise as I know that what I say may piss people off and that I'm probably wrong, ignorant and sound like grandpa anyway :whistle:

Thanks for the log though man...I'll definitely do a little extra work on my doors!

Peace
 

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Discussion Starter #110
RCAs typically carry an analog signal - Digital coaxial is the same fitting, ehhh i know, but it's just one cable not a pair. So if you RCA out you're taking your digital source material and passing through the digital to analog converter in your head unit, then passing that analog signal into your DSP which runs it through an ADC (analog to digital converter) then inserts that digital stream into the DSP workspace, then sends it through a second DAC before outputting an analog signal to the rca's on the output of your DSP.

So you can avoid one DAC conversion and one ADC conversion and your DSP can manipulate the perfect digital source file before it makes a single pass through it's integrated DAC.

Assuming you have a stereo that adds no processing to the input signal, it just passes it through it's ADC. Does this make a difference? I guess. I don't know. You have to decide what's worth your time and effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Soooooo. UAPP is cool. My Topping d10 is not.

I kept getting having my phone disconnect from the DAC. Over and over and over. No amount of settings or configuration could prevent this. No amount of cable swaps or OTG swaps could resolve this. I was still having the issue with Tidal output, but it was FAR rarer. Tidal was also much quieter than UAPP. So I grabbed the laptop and added 6db across the board to bring Tidal input up to an enthusiastic volume. Almost immediately it becomes clear that regardless of the player I am getting disconnected at very high listening levels. Consistently. Over and over. Turn the volume down and stay connected for hours. Turn it up and lose connection within 30 seconds.

But the volume is controlled by a URC.3 I am at a loss in understanding how this could happen.

Use the HEC USB and I'm back running, no issues.

Disconnecting the optical cable from the d10 or from the dsp does not impact the connection between the phone and the d10.

I mean it's really of no consequence to me now, but is this an isolated issue with my d10 or is this something I'm not understanding about the setup.
 

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My bad, thought I saw firmware .exe in there. I'll bet it's a codec conflict. Topping's own support page doesn't list a firmware update.
 

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No drivers necessary for iOS or Android, and I'm not seeing a firmware update for the box anywhere. Sooooo hmmmmm....
 
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