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Thanks a lot. I've been following your build as well and it looks great. I wish I had the fabrication skills of half the guys on this site. lol
Thanks, and I wish I did too...

Both your audio and other mods are tastefully done.
Hey, do you remember that upholstery company (can't think of their name), that made custom accessories for Subaru interiors??

EDIT: I just remembered their name - JPM Coachworks! Too bad they closed down their shop. :(

Man, those guys did some great work! Have you seen it? I had them do a couple things for me over the years, though not for a Subaru...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks, and I wish I did too...

Both your audio and other mods are tastefully done.
Hey, do you remember that upholstery company (can't think of their name), that made custom accessories for Subaru interiors??

EDIT: I just remembered their name - JPM Coachworks! Too bad they closed down their shop. :(

Man, those guys did some great work! Have you seen it? I had them do a couple things for me over the years, though not for a Subaru...
Thanks, I've been trying to just make it look a little more quality without going too flashy. Some of the interior pieces I've had done I've gotten from overland-designs.com, I believe they'll work on most vehicle trim pieces, not just subarus.

There's so many subaru accessory and parts shops, I'm still trying to learn which ones are best. lol
 

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Sub'ed. 2018 WRX, as well. I've only investigated spaces and clearances. I'm going to attempt 8's in the doors. I also have an IDMax12 that I'm leaning toward running IB. Thanks for those pics of your previous 15's. Did you close off any other areas besides the seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Sub'ed. 2018 WRX, as well. I've only investigated spaces and clearances. I'm going to attempt 8's in the doors. I also have an IDMax12 that I'm leaning toward running IB. Thanks for those pics of your previous 15's. Did you close off any other areas besides the seat?
I'd love to have 8s in the doors! Let me know if you have any success with that. The doors will obviously need a lot of deadening, I'm still trying to chase some rattles myself with just 6.5s.

I didn't seal off any other parts of the trunk. It was a while ago but I remember actually liking the sound more with just a single 15 then when I added the second.

Make sure you post up a build log when you're ready, I'm always looking for ideas to steal. Lol

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Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.

Headunit: Ilx-107
Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
Tweeters: Dayton An25f-4 3k+ in the windshield corners pointed to the dome light
Mid range: Dayton PC68-4 300-3000hz
Mid bass: Peerless 830946 80-300hz
Rear fill: Dayton PC68-4 to match
Sub: alpine type s 10 in a sealed box in the corner but I like this triple Dayton setup against the back seat
Amps: (2) PDx-v9 or thinking about some jl xd amps if I remove the spare the pdx would go under the front seats.

Didn’t know if you guys would share your thoughts on this setup since you have more experience with how the car reacts.

Thanks,
John
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.

Headunit: Ilx-107
Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
Tweeters: Dayton An25f-4 3k+ in the windshield corners pointed to the dome light
Mid range: Dayton PC68-4 300-3000hz
Mid bass: Peerless 830946 80-300hz
Rear fill: Dayton PC68-4 to match
Sub: alpine type s 10 in a sealed box in the corner but I like this triple Dayton setup against the back seat
Amps: (2) PDx-v9 or thinking about some jl xd amps if I remove the spare the pdx would go under the front seats.

Didn’t know if you guys would share your thoughts on this setup since you have more experience with how the car reacts.

Thanks,
John
Hey guys. I stumbled upon this thread looking for Dayton midrange reviews and I’m glad to see others with the va chassis doing sq builds. I haven’t really done anything to mine yet besides putting 17 legacy hk coaxles in the dash to get 10k+ The 15 hk system was lacking and as best a tune I could get with the single 8 band or so eq. It’s not terrible lol. I was looking at doing the following though just can’t make up my mind.

Headunit: Ilx-107
Processor: me-8 (if I get it working or cdsp 8x12)
Tweeters: Dayton An25f-4 3k+ in the windshield corners pointed to the dome light
Mid range: Dayton PC68-4 300-3000hz
Mid bass: Peerless 830946 80-300hz
Rear fill: Dayton PC68-4 to match
Sub: alpine type s 10 in a sealed box in the corner but I like this triple Dayton setup against the back seat
Amps: (2) PDx-v9 or thinking about some jl xd amps if I remove the spare the pdx would go under the front seats.

Didn’t know if you guys would share your thoughts on this setup since you have more experience with how the car reacts.

Thanks,
John
That setup should work just fine but I suggest going with the Dayton RS100P-4 or RS75P for mid-range duties. I would also upgrade to the Alpine Type-R or Dayton over the Type-S. I also preferred the Alpines over the JL XDs, they're both great but I just think the Alpine had a lot more power.



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Do the rs100 fit in the dash without cutting it? I don’t want to cut the dash but I’m willing to cut the speakers or the removable grills. Did you have better performance with the nd tweeters on the grills or the other ones in the corner aimed into the cabin? Also are the Dayton ho loud enough and more accurate than say a jl 10w6v3? I had one in my last car but sold it. I was going to use the alpine since I have two and they’re not really worth selling till I bought something new. I like your box with the 3 10s but if I ran 2 pdx-v9s im thinking about just doing 2 10s maybe 2 12s in the same style box for wiring purposes. I’m still trying to keep it small and removable Incase I have to move a tv or something haha.
 

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Oh yeah how’s that box stay when you’re “using” the car haha. I figured the rubber mat would keep it in place well.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Do the rs100 fit in the dash without cutting it? I don’t want to cut the dash but I’m willing to cut the speakers or the removable grills. Did you have better performance with the nd tweeters on the grills or the other ones in the corner aimed into the cabin? Also are the Dayton ho loud enough and more accurate than say a jl 10w6v3? I had one in my last car but sold it. I was going to use the alpine since I have two and they’re not really worth selling till I bought something new. I like your box with the 3 10s but if I ran 2 pdx-v9s im thinking about just doing 2 10s maybe 2 12s in the same style box for wiring purposes. I’m still trying to keep it small and removable Incase I have to move a tv or something haha.
The RS100's will most likely require a little cutting but the RS75's should fit fine. I'm going to go back with the other tweeter setup to get another good listen to it and see how I like it, maybe the same type of mount on the dash panel but with a larger format tweeter. I also want to try cross firing tweeters with my spare a-pillars and see how I like it.

I would go with the JL's over the Daytons for sure. The dayton's lack volume, that's why I'm running 3 of them. The issue in these cars is that the rear seats have solid backing so it's hard for the sub pressure to reach the front cabin. With the rear seats down it makes a night and day difference. facing the subs rear firing gives you volume for sure but I feel that I also get more rattles that way and I've deadened the rear deck, trunk, and trunk lid pretty heavily. I guess I need a little more work with that. I think IB will be the best option when it comes to volume and less rattles, it worked well in my previous wrx.

I recommend 2 10's ported for you, for something that'll give you great volume, low end, and will be removable. I might try ported with two of the daytons as well.

Oh yeah how’s that box stay when you’re “using” the car haha. I figured the rubber mat would keep it in place well.
The box doesn't move at all, of course it's always good to secure it but I haven't had any issues. Hope this helps.
 

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Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it. Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the opening to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.
 

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Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it.
I expected the same thing, a hole in the non-HK system cars. However, it isn't there. The rear deck is solid where the HK sub would be.
IMG_20181112_092555.jpg
IMG_20181112_092558.jpg

...Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.
The factory grille is 6" wide (narrow dimension). The factory speaker is 2.5" and the screw holes are ~3.25". The outside mounting flange (oblong) is slightly less than 4" in the long dimension. Now, I went through the same thoughts against cutting the dash. However, notice that the factory speaker has a large air gap around it. I'm not opposed to cutting that further to fit a new speaker. It will be covered by the grille. I've also made a template for a plastic baffle to cover the mounting area.

I have a Google photos album with dimensions measured in the car. PM me if you want more, unless the OP wants them as well in his thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Is you car a non hk car? My hk system has a sub in the rear shelf so I figured I’d remove it so the subs can breath. I’d think even the non hk cars would have the hole just with a blank plate covering it. Also I’ll have to pop the grills out and measure the opening to see if I can get the 100s in without modifying the dash.
Other then a tiny bit of cutting it should be fine. Also as stated below unfortunately there's no hole in the rear shelf.

I expected the same thing, a hole in the non-HK system cars. However, it isn't there. The rear deck is solid where the HK sub would be.
View attachment 233661
View attachment 233663



The factory grille is 6" wide (narrow dimension). The factory speaker is 2.5" and the screw holes are ~3.25". The outside mounting flange (oblong) is slightly less than 4" in the long dimension. Now, I went through the same thoughts against cutting the dash. However, notice that the factory speaker has a large air gap around it. I'm not opposed to cutting that further to fit a new speaker. It will be covered by the grille. I've also made a template for a plastic baffle to cover the mounting area.

I have a Google photos album with dimensions measured in the car. PM me if you want more, unless the OP wants them as well in his thread.
Yeah it'd be great to get those pics/dimensions. I'm getting the itch again on trying something new and would like to see how a 4" mid would fit.

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Discussion Starter #35
nice work!
Thanks!

So playing around a little more with getting some better dynamics out of the system, I tried a few different tweeters and tweeter locations. First I tried a slightly larger Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter mounted directly to the dash grille. Although it sounded a little better, it just didn't give me the impact I was looking for.


Next, I thought I would try some A-Pillar mounted tweeters and decided to go with a larger format tweeter. I went with another set of Dayton tweeters that I've had for a bit, Dayton Audio ND28F-6 1-1/8" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter. Ok, now we're getting somewhere! With no EQ work and some quick time alignment, this got me the impact/volume/dynamics I was looking for. I'm very happy with the pillar mounted tweeters, and although they're off axis and it sounds great. Not sure if it's more-so the large tweeters or the placement but now I know what I want.


I also realized that I wasn't stressing the mids in the dash much and could push them much more. I set the crossover to 175hz/24 and actually sent them some power. The mids were never a big issue, I feel the mid frequencies were fine firing off the glass unlike the tweeters, but now the mids are really providing the dynamics I was looking for as well.

All of these ugly setups/mounting locations were just temporary until I could find what I was looking for.
So now I'm debating a couple of things, I'm thinking about going to a 4" mid (most likely Audiofrog GB40) and having it mounted directly on top of the factory dash grille. Where the stock dash speakers are, nothing more than a 3 1/2" will fit without serious modifications.

I could also go with a HAT L3SE or new X3 which are just slightly larger but will fit in the stock location. The next thing is the tweeter. If I go Audiofrog mid then I'll also be going with the Audiofrog GB10 in the same a-pillar location unless I get some fabrication done and aim them slightly in (above my skillset). If I go HAT, It'll be either the L1V2 or L1 Pros in the same configuration. Any ideas/recommendations?
 

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I was thinking gb10 gb25 gb60 if I dropped the coin. My money has been tied up in getting a 64mm turbo spinning haha.
 

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Also for tweeter placement I was thinking about putting them in small pods in the corners of the windshield and aiming them to a point ear level between the two headrests.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I was thinking gb10 gb25 gb60 if I dropped the coin. My money has been tied up in getting a 64mm turbo spinning haha.
The GB25 will probably be much easier to fit and I hear there's not much difference at all between the GB25 and GB40. I just happened to get a great deal on the 40s but I still haven't had a chance to see how or if they'll fit.


Also for tweeter placement I was thinking about putting them in small pods in the corners of the windshield and aiming them to a point ear level between the two headrests.
I'm contemplating on having a shop do the same for the tweeters. A little fiberglass work on my a-pillars to get them a bit more on axis. If I go that route then I almost feel like I might as well get the GB25s and have them both in pods off the a-pillars. Lol


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