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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after all that work with the Tundra I had, I traded it in for a 2018 Tacoma TRD Sport double cab with the short bed. It came with the Entune Premium w/nav - non-JBL system. I love the head unit, hate the speakers, so I am here for help again.

I am actually looking to go more plug and play this time, so I'm not entirely sure how cheap this is going to be. For now, this is what I have on hand:

PPI P65c3 woofers and tweeters (no mids, see my other build thread on that LOL). I'm not going to be using the tweeters (and will list them in a little while)

Kicker Tweeter Kit (Subaru OEM): This is also an OEM fit for the 3gen Tacoma, and I got it for close to nothing

What I have been looking at is the OEM+ plug and play amp/dsp/sub kit 450Q

Generic coaxil rears (probably kicker something or other).

My questions (for now for the brain trust):

Does the non-JBL Entune Premium w/nav have some other hidden amp I don't know about?
If I dump all the speakers in now with sound dampening, are they going to sound like ass with out an amp set up?
Does that OEM+ kit look a little on the expensive side, or is it worth the money to have something so easy to set up?
Has anyone else here used anything from OEM+ (I searched)

Thank you,

ROn
 

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Slowpoke
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If I dump all the speakers in now with sound dampening, are they going to sound like ass with out an amp set up?
Does that OEM+ kit look a little on the expensive side, or is it worth the money to have something so easy to set up?
You will probably need more power on those PPIs out the gate, but I have no idea what the sensitivity is like. Maybe you'll get lukcy?

Yeah, that OEM+ kit seems like it costs at least twice what it should. And I've heard they're not as plug and play as they like you to believe. IIRC you still need to run a power wire to the battery. $1,100 for an (probably halfway cheap) 8 inch sub, box and amp, and some cabling, IMHO is grossly overpriced. I'm pretty sure I could put together something that would perform just as well and fit in the same space for no more than $500 - and that's being generous.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You will probably need more power on those PPIs out the gate, but I have no idea what the sensitivity is like. Maybe you'll get lukcy?

Yeah, that OEM+ kit seems like it costs at least twice what it should. And I've heard they're not as plug and play as they like you to believe. IIRC you still need to run a power wire to the battery. $1,100 for an (probably halfway cheap) 8 inch sub, box and amp, and some cabling, IMHO is grossly overpriced. I'm pretty sure I could put together something that would perform just as well and fit in the same space for no more than $500 - and that's being generous.
Yeah, I thought so too, but I just don't feel like wiring everything again. I hated doing the Tundra. I just know that I love the interface of the Entune but am underwhelmed by the sound....
 

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Slowpoke
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Yeah, I thought so too, but I just don't feel like wiring everything again. I hated doing the Tundra. I just know that I love the interface of the Entune but am underwhelmed by the sound....
You don't have to re-wire everything. You'd need to run a power wire, find a ground, and somehow get high level signals from your head unit to your amp. Something like speedwire would work well here. You'd run it from the head unit to the amp for inputs. Then from your amp back up through more speedwire through your factor speaker wiring as long as it's large enough - should be. You'll need to make a few splices to do this and will have to run a little cable from the amp location to head unit. I guess you gotta ask yourself is that little bit of work worth $600 for someone to make it marginally easier. For me the answer is easy. Not sure if you'd need some sort of interface to restore any cuts made in the head unit. I'd think you should be able to tap into the high level inputs on the amp. Some people believe Tacoma radios do cut frequencies, but some swear they don't. I dunno. I've never seen a convincing evidence-based argument either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forgot to add, I have a JL 10TW1 from the Tundra build that I want to get in there too, so that would preclude using the OEM+ stuff. Now I have research to do....
 

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Slowpoke
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I think I can do this myself pretty easy. I just found these:

https://tacotunes.com/shop/toyota-tacoma-audio-products/double-cab-audio-products/plug-play-wire-harnesses/tacoma-plug-play-amp-harness-installation-kit/

It'll take all the guess work out of the wires for me (which is what I am most concerned about). Now to pick an amp. Suggestions?
Well that's convenient. Pricey but convenient. I was thinking they made an enclosure a lot like the one OEM+ sells as well. Maybe I made that up. There's always Mr. Marv. He most likely has something already designed for that space. That'd be my first choice anyway.

Lots of choice available in an amp. Maybe the NVX JAD900.5? It has a strong following here - there's even a thread on modding them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well that's convenient. Pricey but convenient. I was thinking they made an enclosure a lot like the one OEM+ sells as well. Maybe I made that up. There's always Mr. Marv. He most likely has something already designed for that space. That'd be my first choice anyway.

Lots of choice available in an amp. Maybe the NVX JAD900.5? It has a strong following here - there's even a thread on modding them.
I'll hit up Mr. Marv. As for the JAD, that's what I used in my last build. I'll look and see if they have a high level version. I liked that amp well enough. I think I can do this pretty cheap.

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Discussion Starter #10
D'oh - forgot about the high level input requirement. There's always the LOC route.
So here's a dumb question,

If I get my hands on, say an Alpine MRV V500 and utilize the speaker level inputs, does the amp use those inputs for the sub as well? Because that would be awesome and I would be on my way to wiggle bay.

Do all of the amps that accept speaker level inputs use those inputs for the sub as well?

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Doing some upgrades to my '17 Tacoma and came across your thread.

Not sure of the specs on those PPIs but I put those same Kicker tweeters in along with Kicker CS 6x9s and 6.75s in the rear about a month ago, major improvement over stock sound but I'm still planning to add more because I need more volume. I have a JL rd900/5, fix86, and kicker Compt RT 10 to add in coming weeks.

I got the Tacotunes harness during black friday sales and honestly I think you might come out better buying speed wire and the two adapters from Amazon for much cheaper and get the pre-bundled wiring. I plan to add some techflex, still kind of a PITA though.

I planned to get the MRV-V500 myself, but decided to go with the JL instead just because of previous experience with JL and concerns about power.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Doing some upgrades to my '17 Tacoma and came across your thread.

Not sure of the specs on those PPIs but I put those same Kicker tweeters in along with Kicker CS 6x9s and 6.75s in the rear about a month ago, major improvement over stock sound but I'm still planning to add more because I need more volume. I have a JL rd900/5, fix86, and kicker Compt RT 10 to add in coming weeks.

I got the Tacotunes harness during black friday sales and honestly I think you might come out better buying speed wire and the two adapters from Amazon for much cheaper and get the pre-bundled wiring. I plan to add some techflex, still kind of a PITA though.

I planned to get the MRV-V500 myself, but decided to go with the JL instead just because of previous experience with JL and concerns about power.
Did you get both the speaker and sub harnesses?

The PPI is just a woofer. I feel that having a coaxial speaker in the door as well as the tweeters in the dash is going to be too hi/bright overkill. Plus, they're just sitting there, and I'll save money/use elsewhere like for a better amp.

As for the speed wire/harnesses, I tried following the thread on taco world, but I got "lost". Too much jumping around. If I have clear instruction on what to do, I can do it..... I'm all about saving cash on this build.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Did you get both the speaker and sub harnesses?

The PPI is just a woofer. I feel that having a coaxial speaker in the door as well as the tweeters in the dash is going to be too hi/bright overkill. Plus, they're just sitting there, and I'll save money/use elsewhere like for a better amp.

As for the speed wire/harnesses, I tried following the thread on taco world, but I got "lost". Too much jumping around. If I have clear instruction on what to do, I can do it..... I'm all about saving cash on this build.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I just got the amp harness from them. I talked with one of the owners about the setup and he confirmed that the MRV-V500 and the "Plug & Play Wire Harness" would be everything I'd need to get going. The 'add a sub harness' only gets the front two channels and isn't useful/necessary if you're adding a 4/5 channel amp.

I ordered my speakers from Crutchfield and they included mounting adapters and speaker harnesses for free. I've heard the Tacotunes ones are a little better, but I'm not sure why since these worked great. I've also seen people chop up the OEM speakers for mounts, the OEM speakers are unbelievably worthless so you can't really sell them; one subaru kicker tweeter weighs almost as much as an OEM 6x9 and the entire OEM setup weighs less than any give aftermarket 6x9 or 6.5.

I actually saw a thread in "Toyota Tacoma 3rd generation" Facebook group where someone used speed wire and the adapters and it looked very simple but I had already received the TT kit at that point. I believe the wires were the same colors on the adapters and you just match the speakers to the speed wire colors (purple, green, white, grey) to each adapter (so you'll have two sets of each color: one going to amp, one coming from amp) and the remaining wires will connect directly to the other adapter (same colors again).

The Tacotunes adapter definitely simplifies things, just not sure it's worth $80+s&h. I will say the guy was very helpful, but at the same time it says right on the product page that they offer no support for the harness unless you buy their full kit, so I don't expect any help from them if I run into problems.
 

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Slowpoke
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So here's a dumb question,

If I get my hands on, say an Alpine MRV V500 and utilize the speaker level inputs, does the amp use those inputs for the sub as well? Because that would be awesome and I would be on my way to wiggle bay.
Only 4 high level inputs so I'd think so. Maybe d/l & read through the manual - that should tell you for sure.
 

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While the stock drivers in the Taco are cheap, the way they mate & seal up to the door panel makes a big difference in their performance that is necessary to replicate when upgrading. Probably a big reason why many chop up the stock mounts. I've ordered mdf adapters from Marv. They're solid and bolt holes line up perfectly, but you still need to give attention to sealing the front of the baffle to the door panel as well as treating them to protect from moisture. I now have 8" in the doors so sealing isn't as good as it should be, but care still needs to be given.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
While the stock drivers in the Taco are cheap, the way they mate & seal up to the door panel makes a big difference in their performance that is necessary to replicate when upgrading. Probably a big reason why many chop up the stock mounts. I've ordered mdf adapters from Marv. They're solid and bolt holes line up perfectly, but you still need to give attention to sealing the front of the baffle to the door panel as well as treating them to protect from moisture. I now have 8" in the doors so sealing isn't as good as it should be, but care still needs to be given.
Yep. When I did the Tundra, I had the PPI in the front and Kenwood coaxial in the rear in gutted OEM speakers for mounts. I used foam to create a seal for the front of the speaker to the door shell. After a while I developed a rattle so I switched the fronts to the TacoTune mounts.

I'm trying to make this as easy as possible for myself without taking it to the local shop.

I probably won't be able to use those PPIs in the front doors because of the wattage RMS needs for them. I want to keep within the confines of the 80 watt RMS because I want to keep the stock wires.

I don't believe I will need a new box for the sub. The box that it is in now is pretty small, and it will probably fit behind the seat with no problems, and when it gets warmer out, I'll test fit it.
 

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I probably won't be able to use those PPIs in the front doors because of the wattage RMS needs for them. I want to keep within the confines of the 80 watt RMS because I want to keep the stock wires.
I understand the concern about running higher power on the factory wire, due to its tiny diameter. Nonetheless, I've ran 180W to door midbass speakers on the factory wire, w/o issue. There may actually be some power loss/saturation due to the factory wire size, but for me it's acceptable, and justifies the use of higher power to offset the loss in the factory wiring.

That's my theory at least. Hopefully, someone with a better understanding will chime in and verify or debunk my theory.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I understand the concern about running higher power on the factory wire, due to its tiny diameter. Nonetheless, I've ran 180W to door midbass speakers on the factory wire, w/o issue. There may actually be some power loss/saturation due to the factory wire size, but for me it's acceptable, and justifies the use of higher power to offset the loss in the factory wiring.

That's my theory at least. Hopefully, someone with a better understanding will chime in and verify or debunk my theory.;)
What are you running for an amp? I'd love to be able to use the PPI woofers.

NM, see your sig line now
 

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What are you running for an amp? I'd love to be able to use the PPI woofers.

NM, see your sig line now
Just a quick FYI. I’m no longer running through factory wiring, but had I the past with a PPI Phantom 900.4 powering Peerless SLS 6.5 midbass. They flat hammered and seemed unaffected by the fact that I was using the tiny gauge factory wiring at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After a ton of back and forth with Mr. Marv, who by the way, is pretty awesome, I've decided to go this route:

Kicker Tweeter kit on dash
PPI 6.5 woofer drivers on the front doors
Kicker 6-3/4s (43CSC674) on rear doors
JL 10TW1 behind the rear seat (need to check for current box fit, but it's like a blizzard here)
ARC Audio xdi850.5 with his plug/play wiring kits

I'm pretty fired up about this one. I want the high end amp so I can go further later on with speaker quality....
 
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