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True that except he’s not comparing apples to apples since his old car was a lot more extreme. He already mentioned the old kicks had some dips since they were so far forward than the more traditional door mounting, which doesn’t have the same dips according to Erin. But I like where your thinking is going but I don’t think you’ll be able to affect much below 1,000 Hz, really 2 or even 3,000 Hz with material choices. Maybe in more expensive cars the materials might have more of an impact due to less plastic. Then again, not with a panoramic glass roof.

Yeah, maybe I’m just board of my car and want a new Honda
I need a good reason to go get that new 2.0T the 2020fit has .......
 

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Discussion Starter #443
Been a while since I've posted here. Nearly 7 months since I started the thread. Oh, that reminds me, I think a few people in this thread owe me some money for their wager that I would change things before 6 months. ;)

Anyway, I've been working on getting my testing going again and have started posting things on YouTube. My video today has some information about how I set up my sub/midbass crossover and thought some of you might be interested in seeing it. Here's a link to the thread I started:


And here's the post:

In this video I discuss why I recommend using your subwoofer to improve midbass response. Get your pitchforks ready!... I’m suggesting to run your sub higher than 30hz! :D

This isn’t truly a shocking revelation. Plenty of people already do what I suggest. It just goes against intuition and against some beliefs in the car audio community that a subwoofer should not play too high in frequency because it can cause the bass to be localized behind you.

The reason why is due to one MAJOR issue in car audio: the “Nearside Null”. This is the large dip in response of the driver’s side midbass speaker that occurs typically in the 70-90hz region. This doesn't occur in every car; there are certainly exceptions to the more extreme car installs.


It is an acoustical null caused by the relationship of the listener’s location relative to the midbass location and generally caused by the width of the vehicle. If you play a track with bass guitar it’s very prevalent; you get a localization to the nearside midbass speaker when the midbass speaker is crossed lower than the frequency where the null occurs.

Generally speaking, the lower your crossover point between midbass and subwoofer, the more noticeable this occurrence is. Unfortunately, this isn’t something you can simply “EQ out”, either. Throwing +6dB at this null may only result in 1dB of actual gain; that means you’re wasting a LOT of power and risking damage to your speaker for no acoustical gain. Some of you may even think to yourselves “seems like you’re not getting much by crossing the midbass low. Maybe there’s not as much benefit as I thought in doing that”. That’s a logical assumption and a lot of times that’s actually true. Crossing the midbass too low can actually result in more “bass behind you”! And you can also take some of the strain off your midbass by crossing them at or above the null. Ironically, we in car audio tend to cross midbass low to get the “up front” bass we so much desire. BUT, IN FACT, the majority of the time you have bass that pulls to the rear is BECAUSE of the midbass nulls. I know that sounds counteractive. But it’s the truth. Standing waves are problematic and this is one symptom of them; whether in home or car audio.

Contrary to popular belief, raising the subwoofer crossover in to the region that this null occurs can actually HELP the sound to stay focused and achieve “up front” bass. If you can move your subwoofer to a location where it is null-free through a frequency above the Nearside Null then you can likely improve midbass without negatively impacting the “up front bass” effect that so many are after. And you can also take some of the strain off your midbass by crossing them at or above the null frequency. Not all have the luxury of space to move the subwoofer around much but experimentation is key here; you may be surprised at the difference subwoofer placement in the trunk can make.

And one important conclusion here is that placing the rear mounted subwoofer on the opposite side of the listening position often results in better response!

 

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Discussion Starter #447
Really nice build. Pulling windshield and dash on a new car takes some dedication. End result is amazing though... makes me wanna finish up my project as well.
Thank you, sir! I'm extremely happy with the install. And even 7 months later, more than glad I made the decision to take it to Steve and have him do it. If I hadn't, I probably would still be at it myself... I've just grown a bit 'tired' of installing. And no doubt it would not look nearly as good. I absolutely love jumping in the car and feeling unencumbered by large speakers like I did in my last car. (That's not a knock against my friends who have installs that are like that, though. It's just a personal preference after having lived the 'extreme' life for so long.) That said, I do have ideas of things I want to try to do at some point. Maybe in the fall or early next year. I don't see anything changing anytime in the next few months even if I had the means right now. But for now, I'm still completely happy with the choices I made with this system and car. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #448
I removed my passenger side GB60 midbass so I could test it on the Klippel this weekend and figured I'd share a better picture of the midbass mounting for no other reason than "because".

(the allen heads hold the midbass in place; I just screwed them back in to the ring so I wouldn't lose them ;))

275656
 

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Oh, and I am approaching my one-year anniversary with this car. I haven't changed a single thing. Some of you guys owe me money. ;) :D
Bhahahahahah

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
 
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