DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay folks heres the deal, my first install is a 2019 LT Trailboss with the bose sound system. Big mistake making this bad boy my test dummy but I only like to do shit myself even if that involves me learning because I eventually always figure it out and get good at it. But this project has been a bit of a bitch since I grossly underestimated the complexity of car audio (props to all you hardened audiophile installers out there). Long story short best buy did my initial install and royally fucked it up, I normally would have done it myself but Im a full time student and employee so time is precious. I wont get into detail just that most of my time was uninstalling what they did and returning the factory back to stock (shit was bad, like really bad). Then I took it to another shop who atleast did a bit better and installed a dsp but it still sounded like shit. Little did I know I had a pretty decent idea of good sound and in order to satisfy that quench I was gonna need to go all out. After a ton of research, calls to skilled shop owners (Nick at Apicella autosound if you're on here thanks bro you are the fucking man for taking the time to help me sort this nightmare out), and hours of research I finally have a knowledgable enough understanding to do this the right way. So heres my deal Ive got a
Focal Flax 6.5” 3 Way Component set for the front stage
Focal Access 6.5” for the rear fill
12” Jl TW3 Sub in a sealed enclosure
Alpine PDR-V75 5 channel
Alpine S-A32F 4 Channel
NAV TV UNIT- ZEN AVB GM
Audio Control DM 608 DSP

(And no more money but fuck it)

My goal is to make a great sounding system and I think with this equipment its more than possible. Im also sound deadining the rear and all doors. My question is what would be the best way to distribute the drivers since my DSP is a 6 to 8. Rear fill im going to sum to mono and turn down so it would not interfere with the front stage. Sub Im also going to sum to mono. Also il be posting photos as I go so really this post is a sort of catch all before I start this build, if you guys have any suggestions or tips for a first time guy like me please let me know harsh or nice, I dont care, knowledge is all the same. So please feel free to chime in, the only real issue Im running into right now though is the driver distribution and where to mount my Mids and tweeters for a temporary fix until I can get my hands on some really nice custom pods for which Ive already got a shop in mind since they’ve already done a truck like mine and I was really impressed with the craftsmanship. In conclusion, let me know what you guys think, and any potential problems you for see for a first time installer like myself and how to resolve them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
Sounds like you've got some good equipment there. I have a 2014 Silverado with a nice set up. I did not have the Bose option so I'm not sure how that works but I also replaced the factory head with a Kenwood Excellon head for a crystal clear input signal.
I installed Audiofrog GB25 2.5" midrange in the factory dash locations with those foam speaker baffle cup for enclosures. I got lucky with the tweeters and found custom built A-pillars from a fellow member who was selling them. So my Quart tweeters are in my pillars angled forward and up. The factory sail panel is a good location for tweets but require another set of speaker wires to go through the door jambs which is a major PITA.
6.5" Quart midbass are in the factory door locations mounted to custom built plexiglass baffles which mock the depth of the factory speakers. I have heard the the aftermarket speaker adapters work good for these trucks but need deadening material stuck all over them for density. Not a big deal though.
For door deadener I love Nick's Resonix products and will always recommend them. They are super easy to work with and of the highest quality. So I totally deadened the inside of my outer door skins, the entire inside of the door frame, and the inside of the door panels. I have great midbass response and no vibration noise. But that stuff is great.
I use a Helix Pro DSP which I have not yet EQed but do have the timing and crossovers set. One of the beauty's of the Helix Pro is the ability to set up L-R rear fill which I love. I used to use no rear speakers but with this set up, it adds a very nice depth effect. Not sure you'll be able to do that with the Audiocontrol DSP with only 8 outputs. But even with my rears off, I have great dashboard height staging and imaging. I imagine after I get the EQ set, it will be even more accurate.
But I'm anxious to hear how you do your build as I love GM trucks and those new ones like you have are super sweet. Best of luck to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you've got some good equipment there. I have a 2014 Silverado with a nice set up. I did not have the Bose option so I'm not sure how that works but I also replaced the factory head with a Kenwood Excellon head for a crystal clear input signal.
I installed Audiofrog GB25 2.5" midrange in the factory dash locations with those foam speaker baffle cup for enclosures. I got lucky with the tweeters and found custom built A-pillars from a fellow member who was selling them. So my Quart tweeters are in my pillars angled forward and up. The factory sail panel is a good location for tweets but require another set of speaker wires to go through the door jambs which is a major PITA.
6.5" Quart midbass are in the factory door locations mounted to custom built plexiglass baffles which mock the depth of the factory speakers. I have heard the the aftermarket speaker adapters work good for these trucks but need deadening material stuck all over them for density. Not a big deal though.
For door deadener I love Nick's Resonix products and will always recommend them. They are super easy to work with and of the highest quality. So I totally deadened the inside of my outer door skins, the entire inside of the door frame, and the inside of the door panels. I have great midbass response and no vibration noise. But that stuff is great.
I use a Helix Pro DSP which I have not yet EQed but do have the timing and crossovers set. One of the beauty's of the Helix Pro is the ability to set up L-R rear fill which I love. I used to use no rear speakers but with this set up, it adds a very nice depth effect. Not sure you'll be able to do that with the Audiocontrol DSP with only 8 outputs. But even with my rears off, I have great dashboard height staging and imaging. I imagine after I get the EQ set, it will be even more accurate.
But I'm anxious to hear how you do your build as I love GM trucks and those new ones like you have are super sweet. Best of luck to you.
Wow sounds like you've got a fantastic system going in your truck, thanks for your input. For the sound deadener since my budget was a bit tight I bought the Noico sound deadener that was on amazon had some great reviews and was a very reasonable price. Otherwise I would have definitely gone with Nicks product. The DSP has 8 outputs your are correct but Im hoping to run the rear fill speakers on mono that way they only take up one output on my dsp and Il run the last eighth output in mono to the subwoofer since both channels on the AC DSP are dedicated mono. Im still trying to figure how to do that though since Im not sure if I just use a Y cable RCA or bridge the signal at the amp or both. Il continue to ask around and find the best solution. If it works That should free up all the space I need for a good clean signal and should really help with making sure the rear fill speakers dont contaminate my front sound stage and image. Im really excited for this build and am going to post as much information as I can because this truck is so new and since this is my first build I can only imagine how other guys in my position feel so Im going to try and post information in a more simplified and novice manner without discarding critical information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
As far as connecting up the Audiocontrol DSP, give a call to the AC reps. They have EXCELLENT customer service. I've been using AC products for over 20 years and they have always provided great Customer and Technical service on all their products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey guys so just an update its been a little hectic with school and work, but all of the parts and equipment I ordered will be here tomorrow Friday Feb 6 2020 and Il be able to start Day 1 of what I expect will be a 3 day project. A couple changes to my equipment have been made but in a fantastic way. First, amazon sent me the wrong 4 channel amplifier.

And fuck I couldn't be happier.

Instead of sending me the MRV-F300 they sent me the newest and most updated model of that amplifier which is the S-A32F which is Alpines newest and most up to date S-Series 4 channel amp and is actually 100$ more than the amp I thought I was purchasing. Finally a good sign that my audio nightmare and squirrelly sounding truck is coming to an end.

Second my good buddy (who is an experienced BMW auto tech and will be assisting me every step of the way) and I went ahead and looked up all the peak voltages and recommended gain settings for each amplifier that is going to be powering each speaker. That way were able to quickly and efficiently tune the amps to their respective gain levels with zero distortion or clipping using a multi meter and ohms law.

Finally,Im going to have to fabricate a basic subwoofer enclosure and 3” dash speaker mount until my speaker pods and enclosure arrive from MTI acoustics. The box has already been ordered and will be here in about 3 weeks. The pods (I unfortunately came up short with the money on) are going to be ordered from MTI on the first of March when I get paid and I decided to go with MTI Acoustics since Im able to mail my pillars in and they are able to send the fabrication back to me.

Let me clarify why I went with MTI instead of Nick. First off, no shade on Nick, in fact his work was so damn impressive and noteworthy I was going to drive up from FL to NY and make a fun vacation out of it so he could fab me the pods, but Im so over budget Im just not able afford the trip.

All in all after two shops messed up my truck and I had to buy entirely new speaker sets, a $3K build has cost me $6K. Granted most of that is because of labor since I was atleast able to return all of the faulty equipment and exchange it for better more suitable equipment (Like the FOCAL speakers and JL Sub). However once I realized to do this build properly it was going to cost about 3 times more than I thought because of additional parts and things like finding the right sub, sub, enclosure, speaker pods, additional amp, and Nav Tv unit, it has forced me to really come out of pocket and sacrifice things like trips to NY etc. Im literally all in on this build so Im going to make damn sure it winds up being worth every penny. Il go ahead and post pictures of all the equipment and keep the build log going day by day noting some of the difficulties I encounter and how I resolved them. Additionally Il try to post as many pictures as possible and include a wiring diagram for the truck since its not apparent to me there is one out there guys can easily look up, I assume because the truck is still so new.

I hope this post will help shed some more in depth light to newer guys like myself with the newest generation silverados that have the bose amplified systems that way they dont make the same mistakes I did and have to pay the price, overpaying for something but loving it kind of sucks because you still over paid, but overpaying for something and hating it because it doesn't work right is the worst feeling in the world for car guys so hopefully this build can help prevent newer guys from getting stuck in that trap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
As far as connecting up the Audiocontrol DSP, give a call to the AC reps. They have EXCELLENT customer service. I've been using AC products for over 20 years and they have always provided great Customer and Technical service on all their products.
Thanks thats a really good idea Im going to go ahead do that now ! Much appreciated !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Y cable for subs is what you need. Do you have 1 or 2 channels of amp for the rear? If 2 you’ll need another y and sum signal to rear fill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Y cable for subs is what you need. Do you have 1 or 2 channels of amp for the rear? If 2 you’ll need another y and sum signal to rear fill.
So on the Alpine v75 channel amp Ive got the dedicated subchannel and the 4 Channels for four speakers open on the amp itself but from the DSP I only have enough channels for one for the sub and one for the rearspeakers. The rest are going to be controlled independent of one another and not summed into mono that way Im able to achieve the highest fidelity SQ possible. So basically Im trying to use DSP CH 1/2 for tweets, CH 3/4 for midrange, CH 5/6 for Mid Bass, and CH 7 for the rear speakers, and CH 8 for the sub. Im just not entirely sure how I go about doing that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
So on the Alpine v75 channel amp Ive got the dedicated subchannel and the 4 Channels for four speakers open on the amp itself but from the DSP I only have enough channels for one for the sub and one for the rearspeakers. The rest are going to be controlled independent of one another and not summed into mono that way Im able to achieve the highest fidelity SQ possible. So basically Im trying to use DSP CH 1/2 for tweets, CH 3/4 for midrange, CH 5/6 for Mid Bass, and CH 7 for the rear speakers, and CH 8 for the sub. Im just not entirely sure how I go about doing that.
F300 channel 1&2 = DSP a&b
channel 3&4 = DSP c&d

V75 channel 1&2 = DSP e&f
channel 3&4 = DSP g (summed @ DSP with y cable)
channel 5 = DSP h
(mono with y cable)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
F300 channel 1&2 = DSP a&b
channel 3&4 = DSP c&d

V75 channel 1&2 = DSP e&f
channel 3&4 = DSP g (summed @ DSP with y cable)
channel 5 = DSP h
(mono with y cable)
I actually just found out after calling Audio Control my amplifier has a setting where I can copy the signal from channels 1/2 to ch 3/4, I also have the option to control each set of channels independent of one another, it says by doing this it eliminates the need to use Y cables, however Im not sure if this just a less desirable more convenient option recommended by the manufacturer to better advertise their product or if it is a genuine feature that is actually a more quality solution, whats your thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Why would you do that? You have 8 channels of DSP. Combining channels like that will not let you manipulate each speaker.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ahhhh I see what you are saying sorry this stuff gets ahead of me sometimes, awesome info thank you so much huge help !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
F300 channel 1&2 = DSP a&b
channel 3&4 = DSP c&d

V75 channel 1&2 = DSP e&f
channel 3&4 = DSP g (summed @ DSP with y cable)
channel 5 = DSP h
(mono with y cable)

After looking at this typed in front of me I would use F300 channel 1&2 - tweeters - A&B
channel 3&4 - summed rear fill - G
V75 channel 1&2 - mid range - C&D
channel 3&4 - mid bass - E&F
channel 5 - sub - H
F300 = 50 watts per channel
V75 = 75 watts per channel

Tweeters and rear fill will do fine on less watts and your mid bass wants more watts. You still need the same rca's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
After looking at this typed in front of me I would use F300 channel 1&2 - tweeters - A&B
channel 3&4 - summed rear fill - G
V75 channel 1&2 - mid range - C&D
channel 3&4 - mid bass - E&F
channel 5 - sub - H
F300 = 50 watts per channel
V75 = 75 watts per channel

Tweeters and rear fill will do fine on less watts and your mid bass wants more watts. You still need the same rca's.
Perfect tearing everything apart now Il let you know how it goes !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Alright so day one a couple of hours of work mainly just dissassembling the interior to be able to better access the back wall of the truck. Primarily the goal for today was to remove all of the wiring the previous shops had done and get an overall idea and general impression on where I want to mount the NAV TV integration unit, the two Alpine amplifiers, how I want to organize my wiring and integrate my DSP.

The NAV TV unit is a must for these trucks as theres no way to maintain your OEM head unit (unless you are running a pretty pricey mosconi amp system that has the pre amp bypass feature) and be able to get a truly flat signal to the DSP. The BOSE amp acting as the center channel is just incredibly disruptive no matter how much you try to clean it up using a DSP. The right way, and most valuable way to do it is with the NAV TV piece.

Since Im rocking two amplifiers that aren't that big I decided to mount them to the existing welding rack of the truck. First I cleared the space of the AC/DC converter and removed the bose amplifier. Then I had to cut a piece of wood with holes in it that matced the same placement of the studs on the amp rack in order to slide my piece of wood in place over the studs and secure it to the amp rack using the existing oem hardware.

To do this I took a soft piece of cardboard that was thick enough to easily place through the studs on the welding rack as a rough template for how much wood I was going to need to cut to be able to mount the amps to. For this I measured out a 19 1/4” by 13” piece of scrap wood. If you have these trucks this measurement should work for you as well. But be careful not to exceed four inches in depth (how thick your amps are is the main concern) since anything over that and you'll struggle to put the seats back on because of the foam sound deadener on the back of them. After I had the wood cut to the dimensions I measured, I laid it down on some of that thick cardboard again and cut closely around my piece of wood I would use as my mounting surface for my amplifiers in order to replicate a mirror piece of my wood to be able to see exactly where I needed to drill my holes. I then secured the replica cardboard cut out to the back of my wooden amp mount with some tape. Then I took my cut piece of wood with my cardboard backing on it and squared it up on the welded amp rack until I was satisfied with how it sat and then pressed down hard enough for the studs to puncture the cardboard making myself a perfect template for where to drill the holes in the wooden piece I had cut allowing me to mount my cut piece of wood to the welded amp rack and give me a surface to securely mount my amplifiers while also giving me some space to use some nifty cable fasteners that way I can really ensure my cable management is tidy and efficient.

Here are some pictures of what is done so far, (yes its rough but nothing is even close to being finished, in the end I envision it will look as immaculate and fulfilling as my ex wife’s future tombstone)

Tomorrow I plan on sanding down and finishing the wood to really improve its look and obviously create a more professionally presentable product. Il figure out something to cover it in and really dress it up while also being able dissipate heat from the amplifiers. To secure the board I simply plan to use the existing bolts that screw on to the studs that were used to secure the BOSE amp which is now entirely removed since the NAV TV unit is in its place as a true plug and play OEM integration AMP bypass.

As far as that bose amp Im going to smash the stupid fucking thing with a hammer but pictures of that will come later (Probably around next week). Additionally, tomorrow I plan on figuring out exact locations for everything and having most of the hardware mounted, wired, and transformed into something that is actually worth looking at while coming up with a more finite and detailed plan of attack for the entire build.

Any ways here are some pictures of whats happened so far in the brief time that Ive had and there will be many more to come. Also if you guys have any comments or suggestions bad or good, please feel free to chime in, knowledge from years of experience is as priceless as well, who the fuck knows, but that shit helps so feel free to speak your mind.
261288
261289
261290
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Amps mounted, rear sound deadening being applied, wires will be ran behind the amp mount currently have some quarter inch spacers on the actual studs themselves to be able to give ke a little extra space to be able to do so. Alot of time was taken today to re solder wires in the factory harness near the kick panel passenger side where one of the shops poorly used butt connectors to tap into the signal. About 2 hours of carefully soldering in order to ensure nothing will get loose. Have the power ran running through the passenger side bulkhead and I still haven't figured where exactly Im going to ground. Im hoping somebody will chime in here to be able to give me an idea of the best place to ground these new generation Silverado's.
261381
261382
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Nice, I really appreciate the detail you have put in here. Any updates? I heard there were some glitches with the NavTv for these shutting off intermittently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hey
Nice, I really appreciate the detail you have put in here. Any updates? I heard there were some glitches with the NavTv for these shutting off intermittently.
Hey sorry for the lapse in posts this project has me at about 70 hours so far and Im still working and going to class so its been incredibly hectic. Just a small update before ai post a full and complete build log, we tan into some problems with the sound deadener on the doors so I switched to dynamat extreme, I utilized the resonix sound solutions website to see exactly what aprts of each panel I needed to decouple to remove some vibrations, my friend also wired the sub wrong and burnt the coils to a cripsy piece of toast (yes the BMW technician had the most catastrophic failure of the entire project) in his defense we had been working for 16 hours straight and were trying to finish the project but unforutanely that was a mistake luckily for me crutchfield sent me out a brand new sub no problem and Il be sending back the defective one, we also made a mistake thinking the ohms on the tweeters and mids were 4 their actually 8 with a current Ohm of 6 so that largely impacted our gain settings, we decided the best way to set the gain was by ear utilizing test tones since an incredibly exspensive oscilloscope isn't possible, once we got the front 3 way speakers set up we realized it waa best to swap the mid range speakers from the 4 channel amp to the more powerful 5 channel amp and then put the rear fill speakers on the less powerful 4 channel since those speakers will be tuned quite a bit down to ensure its not interfering with the front stage, so currently Im just rewiring the mids to the larger amp and rear fill to the smaller, mids were mounted in factory dash location utilizing some small custom fabrication, and once we did get the system on briefly in sounded AMAZING, the mids were pounding away like Ive never heard mid bass pound before and the highs were so soft smooth crisp and clear i couldnt believe it, il be cleaning out the truck today getting ready for the new sub that comes in Tuesday along with the box mti acoustics built me on wednesday, so Wednesday I will sit down and take all my pictures, all my frustrations, trials errors, resolutions, lessons learned, and thoughts and steps in a finalized comprehensive build log. Thanks for following !
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top