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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I've been sourcing parts for this install on these forums since December and have had great conversations with a select few members here.

I'm very much an amateur in this hobby so please feel free to call me out on anything! I've mentioned in previous posts how the only upgrade under my belt is a Hybid Audio 2-way component set and an Image Dynamics IDQ 12 that I installed about 75% of the way to completion. It sounded... okay.

Goals:
Keep weight additions relatively low.
Keep changes to the interior subtle...
Increase SQ 9000%
Make mistakes and learn!


Equipment:
AudioFrog GB 10/25/60
AudioTec Fischer Helix DSP.2
Stereo Integrity BM mk IV 12"
Arc Audio 600.4 (x2)
Arc Audio 1100.1
Stock HU



The beauty this is going into? A 2019 Subaru Series.Grey I picked up in November! My first new car!



First thing I started on was designing the subwoofer enclosure. Going with a shallow mount because of the work I've seen on these forums! Shout out to bertholomey and other BRZ owners.

TinkerCad is a little clunky to use for design... but it's free with an account and I got done with what I needed. Also, it might be a better tool to use when one hopes to 3D print their subwoofer enclosure. :D



I was open to the idea of putting the subwoofer in the passenger footwell... but my girlfriend at the time said she would refuse to ever get in this car again if there was even less room for her to sit. Lol.

So this design was with the backseat in mind.... Yes that's right. The subwoofer will be sitting in the back seat. Why not go IB?

Well, I'm into AutoX and my initial concerns were adding too much weight. So I thought it would be cool to have it removable in the back seat... like a child seat! :confused:

We'll see if I actually ever take it out of the backseat. Speaking of which... I think a tint might not be a bad idea...



So my grandfather was nice enough to let me use his workshop and completely cover it in MDF dust.

Making a true right angle(s) box is a pain. It came out alright though. The roundover bits were used on the top and bottom face... with a little bit too much taken off the top... :worried:


Nothing I can't fix with some further sanding.


Also, I used a MASSIVE 3/4 inch rabbiting bit for recessing the subwoofer... a bit. Don't worry! I calculated this into the final volume. IIRC, the final volume was around .55 ft^3.

And this picture shows a hint of things to come. The surprisingly rare painted subwoofer enclosure. (Why is everyone so quick to grab their carpet rolls?)


Also you can see the wood putty used to fill over the screw holes. I tossed around the idea of leaving them exposed but this was easier to pull off!


I wanted to do as much of this project by myself, but I cheated a bit.

As some of you know, chasingSQ's BRZ exploded in a fire-y death ball of flames. His misfortune (yeah right.. That new STI though...) led to me picking up the famous dash pods from bertholomey's build (Courtesy of Mark Worrell) as well as some A-pillars! A big thank you there as that has saved me quite a bit of time on this. (my first real car upgrade project)



More to come!


P.S. I'm much further along in the process now. So expect updates soon! Whenever I get time to upload.
 

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Looks like you're off to a great start! That's a sick stack of gear you've accumulated, and I've always had a fondness for the BRZ, definitely in for the build. I'm going with a very similar setup with AF drivers, Arc amps, and a Helix DSP.2 in my truck - it will definitely be an iterative process though.

I share your sentiment about the members here, I've been gathering ideas and soliciting input from people here for a few months now and everyone has been so helpful. It's cool to see people with similar interest sharing ideas and offering advice, especially to people new to this. I've definitely had fun so far, even though this place is hell on my wallet...
 

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Are you planning on doing any power mods to the car? Say maybe a turbo? It would forgo the need to be too concerned about weight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like you're off to a great start! That's a sick stack of gear you've accumulated, and I've always had a fondness for the BRZ, definitely in for the build. I'm going with a very similar setup with AF drivers, Arc amps, and a Helix DSP.2 in my truck - it will definitely be an iterative process though.

I share your sentiment about the members here, I've been gathering ideas and soliciting input from people here for a few months now and everyone has been so helpful. It's cool to see people with similar interest sharing ideas and offering advice, especially to people new to this. I've definitely had fun so far, even though this place is hell on my wallet...
Thanks, ajt! I agree especially about the kindness of the members here and the journey to the center of the earth... through my wallet.



Are you planning on doing any power mods to the car? Say maybe a turbo? It would forgo the need to be too concerned about weight.
No turbos in the near future... although I was really considering a supercharger (sprintex or edelbrock).

More likely is a naturally aspirated tune and upgrades to keep me in possibly the street touring class in AutoX.

Added weight is still dead weight in a sense. Although, I'm only casually into AutoX so it's not a huge deal for this project. It's still my daily driver.
 

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Your enclosure is nice, but there isn't much left for the screws for the sub to bite into unless there is another layer going on top.
Agreed. Don't make the mistake I made earlier in time.... much earlier... leave enough for the screws to bite into... Also, a thin layer of filler would help with the overall sound quality of the music being played.
 

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Nice car. I agree about the box. When I build my boxes I double up the front baffle With two 3/4” pieces and cut one layer to the cutout size for the subwoofer and the second layer to the outside diameter of the subwoofer frame so the subwoofer sits flush and has meat for the mounting. Also, if you want lighter and stronger than MDF than consider using void free 11 ply birch plywood that comes in 60” x 60” sheets.

You’re going to like those Frogs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies!

So... I'm really far into the painting process that I mentioned briefly with this subwoofer enclosure, including the top face.

T-nuts should do the trick, no?
 

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Thanks for the replies!

So... I'm really far into the painting process that I mentioned briefly with this subwoofer enclosure, including the top face.

T-nuts should do the trick, no?
it appears you only have about 1/4" of baffle for the sub to be secured too?

If so that is not enough and you need to fix that before you proceed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm trying to think of options I have without sacrificing the work I've done so far.

What about reinforcing the baffle from the inside? I lose a bit of volume, but it's still within the recommended range specified by Stereo Integrity.

edit: I just measured and it's almost at 3/8's of an inch.
 

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I'm trying to think of options I have without sacrificing the work I've done so far.

What about reinforcing the baffle from the inside? I lose a bit of volume, but it's still within the recommended range specified by Stereo Integrity.

edit: I just measured and it's almost at 3/8's of an inch.
You could router out a reinforcement ring, cut it in half and glue it to the underside of the baffle. It would be an easy fix and not set you back with what you've done so far...

I would not be comfortable with just 3/8"s of mdf, good plywood maybe, but not mdf. With mdf, I would not settle for anything less than a full 3/4".
 

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I'm trying to think of options I have without sacrificing the work I've done so far.

What about reinforcing the baffle from the inside? I lose a bit of volume, but it's still within the recommended range specified by Stereo Integrity.

edit: I just measured and it's almost at 3/8's of an inch.
Yep, 3/8" isn't near enough. Maybe for a small mid or tweeter, but not a sub.

David has a good idea.

JCsAudio - this is exactly what I do as well.
 

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I love that color! That pic of the car is hot! Nice job! I’m so glad you could get an idea or two from my build, and I’m especially glad that a couple of those items could live on. I was stoked when Ian told me he found a good fella to pass those on to.

Good luck with your build - wonderful start so far!


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Thanks for the replies!

So... I'm really far into the painting process that I mentioned briefly with this subwoofer enclosure, including the top face.

T-nuts should do the trick, no?
I would echo what others have said about the too-thin MDF, and adding additional material.

T-nuts are fine for plywood, however their teeth tend not to readily/properly penetrate MDF. I recommend hurricane nuts instead - just be sure to carefully drill holes of the same size as the O.D. of the part of the hurricane nut that is meant to fit snugly into the hole in the MDF. A tiny dab of GOOP (or other suitable adhesive) applied to each hurricane nut flange will provide additional assurance that they'll stay put whenever you might need to remove the sub.

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-10-32-hurricane-nuts-50-pcs--081-1082

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/1851112?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrpLoBRD_ARIsAJd0BIUbjnIrBOauLe_3-VWCTPbi7d1mlTopmMi244GpbFJl0OcUG0Wtz_4aAv1tEALw_wcB
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would echo what others have said about the too-thin MDF, and adding additional material.

T-nuts are fine for plywood, however their teeth tend not to readily/properly penetrate MDF. I recommend hurricane nuts instead - just be sure to carefully drill holes of the same size as the O.D. of the part of the hurricane nut that is meant to fit snugly into the hole in the MDF. A tiny dab of GOOP (or other suitable adhesive) applied to each hurricane nut flange will provide additional assurance that they'll stay put whenever you might need to remove the sub.

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-10-32-hurricane-nuts-50-pcs--081-1082

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/tape-glues-and-adhesives/glues-and-epoxy/1851112?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrpLoBRD_ARIsAJd0BIUbjnIrBOauLe_3-VWCTPbi7d1mlTopmMi244GpbFJl0OcUG0Wtz_4aAv1tEALw_wcB
DavidRam said:
You could router out a reinforcement ring, cut it in half and glue it to the underside of the baffle. It would be an easy fix and not set you back with what you've done so far...
Thanks for the suggestions! I have no problem making an excuse to visit the grandparent's again.. I love being overfed and then wandering off to the wood shop! (I think that's true no matter how old you get... the being fed part at least)


bertholomey said:
I love that color! That pic of the car is hot! Nice job! I’m so glad you could get an idea or two from my build, and I’m especially glad that a couple of those items could live on. I was stoked when Ian told me he found a good fella to pass those on to.

Good luck with your build - wonderful start so far!
:beerchug: Much appreciated to see in you in this thread!! I'm happy to find a nice home for these poor creatures. :D
 

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I agree with DavidRam's idea. You may wish to use 1/2" ply or something else that is a little stronger than MDF for these parts.
 

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Yup I would cut a piece of wood 1/2" or 3/4" ply or MDF about 2" larger than the opening, and then cut it in half so you can fit it into the opening and glue it in place, then recut the hole using a flush trim bit router.
 

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I would make the reinforcement piece a rectangle so it has as much mdf to grab onto as possible, since two of the sides are so close to the edge...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I've taken the collective advice and made this reinforcement ring. I've used birch plywood. (not sure what void free is)

The two sides (of four) of the larger opening in the top face overlap the side wall. I haven't rigged it up yet, but the screws for the subwoofer may be partly in the side wall, and now partly in the birch baffle.

....not ideal. But I have the ring glued in place. (It needs a bit more sanding)





And now looking at this last picture I feel like there is a small space between the inner edge of the side wall and the ring that could be problematic........ feck.
 

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Hmmmm... (scratching head)

Seems like you should be able to position the sub so that the centerpoint between two mounting holes is aligned with the point at which the ring is thinnest (where the sub mounting flange would extend the farthest over the cabinet side panel), to avoid landing screws within or too near the problematic gap.
 
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