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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
So the midrange mounting to the inner door panel has had me scratching my head on how to add mass without a ton of bulk…looking through my pile of old crap I found a bag of stick on wheel weights. 1.5lbs per panel around the midrange should do the trick. lol
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Now that’s what you call being creative lol.


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Discussion Starter · #43 ·

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ordered up an XS Power D4800 to replace the stock battery with. The oem alternator is 220amp and there’s another oem 250amp unit available if I need a little more in the future. I think I’ll be fine though.
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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Today’s progress. Put carpet on the top of the enclosure only just to decouple the trim panels a bit. The magnets still hold them just fine. Got the enclosure bolted in using the oem hole for the Jack and spare but it wasn’t solid enough for my liking so I went through the floor pan with another 1/2” bolt and now it’s not moving. There’s 1/8” CCF on the bottom of the enclosure to decouple from the floor.
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The Amp rack is bolted in, trim panels all covered and fit including the new floor panel. The amps are just sitting in place right now…I’m about to mark the oem trim piece in front of them and drill the holes for the wiring to pass through then that’s it for today. Tomorrow I’ll pull the main 0 gauge power run and pull the speaker wire to both front doors.

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Oem trim panel drilled and snap grommets in place for the wiring. I’ll add some butyl around the back of those so they don’t make any noise.
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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Running cables today. Fitting 0ga power and three runs of 12ga speaker wire was a little tight on the passenger side but everything fit inside the OEM channels and under the 3rd row seat to aim at the amp rack. I also got the measurements for the main fuse holder I need to weld up this week…I’ll add that and finish the under hood wiring when I swap in the new battery.
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And the ground. It’s a unibody car so I went straight through the floor pan. Ground the paint off on both sides, star washer under the lug and bolted in tight with a 10mm bolt and nylock nut with fender washers on the bottom side and sealed after with silicone.
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Knocked out a bracket to mount the main fuse at lunch today. It will mount using oem bolts next to the battery.
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Also got the stand off base made for the distro blocks. I need 3 each +/- for the amps but I also need to pull power for the DSP and lighting so I added another block for those and anything else I may need.

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Had a few minutes to spare so I pre-wired the distro blocks. I thought I had some 16g wire for the DSP and LED wiring but I’ll have to grab some and add that tomorrow then mount it in place.
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Looking good man, I'm definitely taking notes! I'm currently in the planning stages for my 2016 Focus ST and would be happy if it turns out half as clean as your install. 😍
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Mount for the Director built today. I’ll cut and cover it with 1/8” ABS tomorrow so it’ll look like it was always there. Still have access to the USB and power ports behind it…barely.
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
ABS plastic laminated to the frame for the DSP controller mount. I don’t think I like it much…gonna wrap it with factory match vinyl instead.

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I don’t have JT in my back yard anymore though…I’m stuck with myself. lol
At any rate…wrapping it was the right call. Much better.
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Looks much better, so did you stash a usb somewhere for programming the dsp or is this just easily removable?
It’s just sitting in there right now to test fit. I’ll leave the usb hooked up and stashed in there.
 

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i had a small hole in my ashtray holder for the tuning cord, disappeared into the center console. usb extension cord and tuning cord out under the center console next to the driver's seat.
 
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