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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
Stopping point for today. Mounted the NavTV interface, the power/ground blocks and got the amps wired in and ready for power. All wiring in the back is complete. Battery and main fuse tomorrow and start on the front doors.
New Mosconi stickers for the amps are printed and on the way.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Busy day today. I somehow got all three runs of 12ga wire through and into the doors. Black Hole Tiles added to the inner door, solid behind the midbass then spread out throughout the door. 20 tiles per door. Then I added lead wheel weights and more CLD to the speaker mount and screwed on the 1/2” ABS mounting rings from MTI…after I put on some 1/8” CCF to decouple and seal it. One midbass is mounted and the Fast Ring in place. I moved on to the midranges and mounted them in the flange of the OEM speaker…after some serious modifications. That flange WAS the OEM speaker. They’re mounted to the inner door panel with lead and CLD added for mass and I also cut my own rings from CCF to both decouple and act as a fast ring. Tweeters are glued in as well but I’ll let that dry overnight. Should be making noise tomorrow.

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Gonna have to ditch that B&O logo! Those factory grills look pretty open and i like the design, no big restriction issues there. Awesome work so far!
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Gonna have to ditch that B&O logo! Those factory grills look pretty open and i like the design, no big restriction issues there. Awesome work so far!
I was kinda pissed when I took the OEM midranges out. The door card covered about 1/3 of the driver on the bottom side and it’s mounted low and not centered. I cut out the part on bottom that was covering the driver but I was kinda stuck with the off center part. It looks like it’ll be ok though. And thanks…it’s literally a garage floor build. I don’t even have a table to work on in there. lol
 

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I was kinda pissed when I took the OEM midranges out. The door card covered about 1/3 of the driver on the bottom side and it’s mounted low and not centered. I cut out the part on bottom that was covering the driver but I was kinda stuck with the off center part. It looks like it’ll be ok though. And thanks…it’s literally a garage floor build. I don’t even have a table to work on in there. lol
Trust me i know the garage floor feeling and any kind of work bench would make things 100x easier, mine has been my tailgate most of the time. I spent most of the day finally putting my truck back together. Ive Been driving around without a back seat for close to 2 months now and spent plenty of time sitting in the grass working on things.

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Finished the install and fired it off today with some very conservative XO settings. I’ll rough in the time alignment tomorrow then just get some break in hours on it before it gets turned over to Christerfer Pate on the 14th to start dialing it in.
Unfortunately the terminals for my XS Power battery didn’t make it so it’ll be Tuesday before I can install that. The main fuse holder dropped right in like I meant for it to do. I’ll make up a bit longer cable too…it’s a little short as it sits.

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
And the only flashy thing I added to the whole build.
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Battery and wiring allllmost done. I ran out of heat shrink that’ll fit 0 gauge wire but I’ll get that tape on the wires fixed. Nothing to see with the hood open but the plug for the CTek charger.
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Down to some finishing touches. A friend with a sign shop printed me some new Mosconi stickers so the badges aren’t upside down.
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
The deadening and decoupling continues. I will not have rattles…period. The rear spoiler is multiple pieces clipped and screwed together…damn thing sounded like a can of marbles outside.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
More detailing stuff. Dug out an old trick JOey Knapp showed me years ago for the Director knob. Pull it off and screw it tight to a drill bit or whatever you have that fits inside then spin it on sandpaper…I used 120 then 600 to smooth it out then spin it on a rag with a little aluminum polish on it and in less than 5 minutes the knob matches the others in the car…we’ll close enough anyway.
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
When I installed the midbass’ in the doors I didn’t think to measure how far behind the door panel they sit. They’re back almost 2”. Since the general consensus was the closer the better and with a combination of adapters from MTI for 8” drivers and 6.5-8” aluminum adapters from EBay I’ll push them out 1.5” closer. I have to leave some space for excursion. I’m also replacing the OCF Stinger Fast Rings that seal the driver to the door with CCF rings from Sound Skins.
The MTI 8” adapter and beveled aluminum adapter will open up behind the driver so I’m not sticking it in a tunnel and choking it off. The aluminum rings will be deadened with 1lb of stick on wheel weights plus some CLD so they don’t ring or make any noises I don’t want made. Will it make a difference? I dunno…but I’ll sleep better.
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Well…didn’t go exactly as planned. Got one side together with the aluminum adapter and it was too close to the inner door for my comfort…so I stacked both adapters and moved it out an inch instead which is fine because I was off in my original measurement anyway. It’s still in about the same place I thought it would be. Having a little tune touch up done at Tam Nguyen’s shop in Houston now to reset the TA.
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Upgrades coming next week.
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Next will be a 2nd C12XL and swap the Pro 1/10 for a Zero 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·

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Loved the Ram - love what you have done with the Explorer - beautiful vehicle! Looking forward to seeing the upgrades.


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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Loved the Ram - love what you have done with the Explorer - beautiful vehicle! Looking forward to seeing the upgrades.


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Thanks man…I’m having a blast with this stuff again. Can’t believe I waited so long so do another build.
 
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