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Discussion Starter #1
This SUV might be so new that people don’t yet know the things I am asking. I believe the 2019 is the same thing, but that was an all new vehicle so knowledge on the 2018 and older models likely doesn’t apply.

I have the SEL version, without the Infinity upgrade, so just your standard 7” infotainment system with 6 speakers, 4 door speakers, and 2 more tweeters in the dash. There is a place for a center channel speaker but I don’t think my Santa Fe has it, just the grill cover only. I’ve also already found out enough info on it to know the front door and rear door speakers are all the same part numbers, even though the fronts are being used as part of a component set whereas the rears are not. I’m not sure of the ohm ratings on them but many other Hyundai and Kia models (Kia is a subsidiary of Hyundai) all use 4 ohm drivers so I suspect these are too.

All that said, I want to replace the speakers, and keep the stock infotainment unit (not sure there is a choice anyway cause of how it is designed), and I would like to not have to use other devices such as amps or signal processors. Does anyone know if the front component set has any kind of stock crossover filters, maybe even built into the head unit, that would affect these speakers not getting a full range signal?

Also I noticed that with the fader set centered, the sound is pretty nice up front, even if the front stage is a bit too much, and it absolutely SUCKS for anyone riding in the back. It seems as though the volume is unequal from front to back, until the fader is set towards the rear about 4 clicks. Then it seems balanced out. Can anyone confirm that’s what is actually happening? I got the idea the fader being set centered didn’t necessarily mean “centered” as far as traditional faders work, but rather it was focused on the front seat area to sound the best with the rears attenuated some. The screen display shows the centered listening position to be about where the front seat passengers’ ears would be. This is more of a curiosity to me as I can simply fade towards the back to solve it, but to me it just feels like I am sacrificing what little power there is in front though, by doing so. I guess I’d just like to know if the centered setting means front full power with rears attenuated, so when I fade back some I am just putting more volume in the rear without cutting the front, or am I cutting the front to make the rears stand out more? Maybe I can figure that out by doing some listening tests.

I should also say, even if all I do is replace all 4 door speakers, I’d just abandon the dash tweeters or else leave them running. No desire to dig into them. I will also do a solid job of installing, using seals, back wave absorbtion pads, custom made mounts, and use fast rings on the front side. My goal is to get all I can out of the speakers and the stock deck without any other mods or add ons.

Lastly, does anyone know how the door panels come off? I’m assuming a lot of friction fittings, maybe some molded in hooks, and so far I have found at least one hidden screw in the door arm rest. Being a very new model, there seems to be no information on any installs yet.
 

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besides the traditional balance/fade settings, it is possible that your system has the option to "optimize" the sound for Driver, Front, and All. See if that is the case, maybe it is set to Driver or Front
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I don’t see an option to change any settings beyond the left/right balance and the front/rear fade, based on up and down and left and right tapped increments on the screen. Also there is a touch screen area with a diagram of the car interior that is divided into quarters, with the center line passing through where my ears would be. There is also a center circle area. If I tap the circle, the sound is centered, and the rear passengers hear nearly nothing. The volume for them is greatly reduced while up front it sounds like I’m at a concert. If I tap any of the quarters, all it does is cut all sound completely from the other three. I would have thought the quarters would be to make the sound centered on that specific area, attenuating and boosting volumes to individual speakers as needed, maybe even providing time alignments, but no. Say I tap the driver’s seat quarter. All it does is kill the front passenger side and the entire back completely. The same thing happens when any of the other quarters are tapped. Tap the center circle to restore full sound again, and then I have to manually fade back about 4 clicks to have sound in the back for passengers. This seems to suggest that “centered” actually behaves more like traditional front fading. If I fade to the rear, it sounds more centered than the actual center setting does.
 

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that is pretty sad, I was just hoping something other setting might be lurking behind the scene ... sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spent the whole evening digging and researching online. I’ve kinda been worried about power and this whole fader issue so I started looking into head units. I found out Metra does make an install kit for swapping out the stock head unit, which is a very strange looking 7” screen rising up from the top of the dash. I’ve only found two Pioneer head units that would fit it though. Seems this vehicle requires an L shaped head unit, one with a double din display connecting to a single din chassis, and I have not seen any made by any other manufacturers. By the time I got one of those, however, plus the kit, wiring harness, and all the necessary adapters to retain steering wheel controls and connect the antenna (and that’s if I haven’t left anything out) I think the cost would exceed what just adding a DSP and a decent 4 channel amp would cost. I’d rather do that instead of the head unit so I guess I will start thinking in that direction. At least it opens up more speaker choices, cause I really like some of the JBL speakers I’m seeing, the GTO and CLUB stuff. They have lower ohm loads though.
 

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Wouldn't worry about speaker ohms unless you push volume to the point of overheating the headunit/amp

I prefer the GTO and infinity equivalents and don't care for the entry level JBL/harman/infinity stuff

Many Hyundai's use the 6.5" in the doors with the 2.5-3.5" in the dash. I stuffed 6.75-7" speakers in various Hyundai/Kia doors. Speakers made a drastic difference with my listening style. My dash speakers were the FaitalPro 3FE 3" from partexpress..... didn't need to go boxed major brand 3.5" 2-way. I don't think that I've ever had a 'depth' problem with door speakers but don't purposely try stuffing monster 6.5" subs in the door.

Not much you can do with the "rear fill" speakers.... attenuated for that front sound stage. Either replace the headunit or live with it. Automakers are giving everybody their communist consensus sound stage. I just don't care for it when driving. In Soviet Amerika, you can have your sound system anyway you want as long as it has a front sound stage, along with million useless features built-into the factory headunit.

My simple recommendation: either coaxials front and rear with a widebander in the dash, or coaxials in the back with a component setup in the front. Trash the headunit when the time comes.

Dash reinforcement crash protection seems that automakers are using a slimline headunit since many are now mechless. I have a VW that requires either a single din(which I might go with), or one of those L-shaped double dins(which is a single din with a double din screen), or single din with motorized screen. Makes me want to use a sawzall and cut a spot for real headunit. Also, can't stand all the integrated krap automakers are stuffing into the headunit(HVAC controls, and vehicle specific apps). One of my cars couldn't change the dash clock without the OE headunit. Most automakers = FAIL concerning headunit. Just give me an empty doubledin slot and various speaker locations. Time to rebuild/restore classics. I think my next car will be from the 1970s-1990's.
 

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I find it comical that both of you don't like the front biased stage (fader), that is what aftermarket systems ideally are tuned for in order to enhance the imaging of the music. OEM systems have gotten much better over the years, of course not on the same level as the aftermarket. It is nice to hear that some thought when into the design. Your 7 speaker amplifier is compatible with speakers down to 2 ohms. I would stay away from running coaxials with a wideband in the front, you will muddy your front stage. Either do a conventional 2 way component set or a midbass with a wideband. In the back, you can do a coaxial with no issues.
 

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Yes, its comical. Thread poster stated no Infinity upgrade.
I don't care for "imaging" in a car. I find many with the same opinion. Its a car and not my living room.
I like to be able to fade fully to the back to prevent the kiddies from hearing the adult conversation. Can't do that with most new cars. And, if a passenger out back likes a certain song on the radio, that I don't care for, I would fade back and let them enjoy it since I don't want to hear it.

I will stand corrected... not sure if there is room for the 2.5-3.5" in the dash anymore. Might be a 1" tweeter only... You need to post pictures of your dash speaker locations to see how big they are...... doors I'd still wager are typical to the brand.

The "for sale" section here has a bunch of 6.5" 2-ways available. I think the few, well discounted, would be a good route to start with.

I am a musician. I've been in plenty of competition and upgrade factory cars and don't care for the front sound stage/imaging at all in a vehicle. You can have sound quality without front sound stage and imaging. I don't need are care to have the singer or band or orchestra on my dash.

When competitors compete at 60mph, or automakers test for passengers, with various windows/sunroofs opening/closing, and catering to whoever wants to hear that music playin', then I might change my mind.
 

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You can still fade the sound all the way to the rear, it just has a cascading effect meaning not every click is equal. But once on full rear fade all the sound will come from the back.

The beauty of this is that everyone is going to have their own idea/take on what they like to enjoy. Remember though, you are on a forum where a majority of the members are trying to build a sound system with studio/theater/live grade performance for their vehicle. Imaging and soundstage are two important parts in doing so. When done correctly, you can still hear the benefits regardless if stopped or going 60 mph.

Also, a majority of people never have rear-seat guests and the ones that do will have a different tune loaded on their dsp which can simply be engaged to allow more listening volume for the back seat passengers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Honestly I’ve never liked a front stage sound in a car. I’ve always preferred a more immersive sound, coming from everywhere at once. I’ve heard this referred to as the club sound before. I think of it more like being at the movies, and I look out the windshield as I drive (the screen) while being surrounded by audio that is not directional at all, just omnipresent.

However I do want clear, accurate, and a full depth sound. That’s why I want to replace the speakers and do a solid job on an install of new ones. Maybe down the road I could even see adding a sub because the Santa Fes do have an absolutely awesome, quite large, and completely hidden storage space below the rear cargo area floor that is several cubic feet in volume. This would be ideal for a sub or two, and not appear to take away from any “normal” storage space in the cargo area. It could be completely empty in the back when someone looks inside and still have two 10’s below deck. There is also loads of great space below the rear seats for an amp, even more than one. Everything would be stealth and completely stock looking, which is always what I strive for. That’s one reason I don’t want to change the stock infotainment unit, even though I did look into it.

The Santa Fe does have 6.5 or 6.75 speakers in the doors. I’m thinking I read 6.75 but I don’t recall for sure. I was unconcerned just which because I knew I’d just make whichever I choose fit. I even considered 6x9’s for fatter midbass, and may still yet do that. Does it matter much if the full cone face is not exposed to the grill, such as part of it concealed behind the door panel? The grills built into the doors are an exotic looking long stretched out triangle. There’s plenty of fake grill that’s not actually over the existing speakers now. All I’d have to do is drill out some of the fake holes to increase the opening size. I’m going to custom make the mounts anyway so fitting 6x9’s should be no problem. But if the overall grill opening is not the full oval, if some of the speaker face is concealed, will this cause any audible problems?

The dash has 1” tweeters. I’ve verified that by the factory replacement part size. They’re located in the corners of the dash by the windshield. I know they’re connected to the front door speakers as far as being affected by the front fader, but I’m unsure if they have any sort of crossover or if they’re set to hi pass by some internal setting in the infotainment unit that is not changeable, or maybe nothing at all and they just respond however they can on a full range signal, or what. I know I have little interest in them. I’d just as soon they not be there. I’m fairly certain there is no center channel speaker either, even though there is a grill for one. I think that’s only present in the upper trim levels with the Infinity system. Is this center channel what you mean when you say a wide band in the dash?
 

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Honestly I’ve never liked a front stage sound in a car. I’ve always preferred a more immersive sound, coming from everywhere at once. I’ve heard this referred to as the club sound before. I think of it more like being at the movies, and I look out the windshield as I drive (the screen) while being surrounded by audio that is not directional at all, just omnipresent.

However I do want clear, accurate, and a full depth sound. That’s why I want to replace the speakers and do a solid job on an install of new ones. Maybe down the road I could even see adding a sub because the Santa Fes do have an absolutely awesome, quite large, and completely hidden storage space below the rear cargo area floor that is several cubic feet in volume. This would be ideal for a sub or two, and not appear to take away from any “normal” storage space in the cargo area. It could be completely empty in the back when someone looks inside and still have two 10’s below deck. There is also loads of great space below the rear seats for an amp, even more than one. Everything would be stealth and completely stock looking, which is always what I strive for. That’s one reason I don’t want to change the stock infotainment unit, even though I did look into it.

The Santa Fe does have 6.5 or 6.75 speakers in the doors. I’m thinking I read 6.75 but I don’t recall for sure. I was unconcerned just which because I knew I’d just make whichever I choose fit. I even considered 6x9’s for fatter midbass, and may still yet do that. Does it matter much if the full cone face is not exposed to the grill, such as part of it concealed behind the door panel? The grills built into the doors are an exotic looking long stretched out triangle. There’s plenty of fake grill that’s not actually over the existing speakers now. All I’d have to do is drill out some of the fake holes to increase the opening size. I’m going to custom make the mounts anyway so fitting 6x9’s should be no problem. But if the overall grill opening is not the full oval, if some of the speaker face is concealed, will this cause any audible problems?

The dash has 1” tweeters. I’ve verified that by the factory replacement part size. They’re located in the corners of the dash by the windshield. I know they’re connected to the front door speakers as far as being affected by the front fader, but I’m unsure if they have any sort of crossover or if they’re set to hi pass by some internal setting in the infotainment unit that is not changeable, or maybe nothing at all and they just respond however they can on a full range signal, or what. I know I have little interest in them. I’d just as soon they not be there. I’m fairly certain there is no center channel speaker either, even though there is a grill for one. I think that’s only present in the upper trim levels with the Infinity system. Is this center channel what you mean when you say a wide band in the dash?
The tweeters use a capacitor on them to cross them with the midbass, where the midbass naturally rolls off. This is information taken from an installer database we have access to. You can go with a 6, 6.5, 6.75, even a 7 as long as you build a speaker adapter but I would caution against a 6x9, most do not have as good as midrange reproduction as a standard 6-7".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you very much for that information on the tweeters, it is greatly appreciated. Is there any information regarding the stock infotainment wattages or output signals being full range? How does one gain access to the database?

On the 6x9’s and midrange, yep I’ve heard the difference between them and the round cone speakers. Lots of times the mids do sound a bit attenuated. I’ve generally compensated with EQ boosting to get that back in the past. I guess that probably produces a sound that’s not as accurate sounding as what I have already stated that I am looking for, but in general I don’t mind the sound of 6x9’s even with the lower mids. I’ve noticed over the years that often I have EQ settings with the band sliders arranged in a smile pattern, so it seems I prefer lower mids to higher bass and treble settings. 6x9’s seem to naturally sound that way. But I do like the idea of using a larger round speaker also. I’ve never had a set of 7” speakers before so I’m interested just based on that.
 

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Not sure if it's even an option in your cass, but I absolutely love my setup, which is a 6x9 is the door for midbass and a wideband in the dash, firing up into the windshield. The 6x9 only plays up to ~500hz and then the widebands on the dash play from 500hz - 20khz. Do not miss dedicated tweeters one bit. I've used the Audiofrog GS25 and eventually switched to the CDT Unity 8.0 (2" aluminum-cone wideband), which I love. This type of setup allows you to use the door midbass for midbass-only duty and everything else is up at dash height from the wideband. The 6x9's in the door provide PLENTY of midbass. :) I'm actually using CDT 6x9's in my doors as well - love them. Tried Audiofrog GS690's in the doors as well, but actually preferred the CDT's, believe it or not.

I actually like some "rear speakers" as well, so I use 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck - they play a limited frequency band and are lowered a little, but still add something to the overall sound.
 

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Not sure if it's even an option in your cass, but I absolutely love my setup, which is a 6x9 is the door for midbass and a wideband in the dash, firing up into the windshield. The 6x9 only plays up to ~500hz and then the widebands on the dash play from 500hz - 20khz. Do not miss dedicated tweeters one bit. I've used the Audiofrog GS25 and eventually switched to the CDT Unity 8.0 (2" aluminum-cone wideband), which I love. This type of setup allows you to use the door midbass for midbass-only duty and everything else is up at dash height from the wideband. The 6x9's in the door provide PLENTY of midbass. :) I'm actually using CDT 6x9's in my doors as well - love them. Tried Audiofrog GS690's in the doors as well, but actually preferred the CDT's, believe it or not.

I actually like some "rear speakers" as well, so I use 6.5" coaxials in the rear deck - they play a limited frequency band and are lowered a little, but still add something to the overall sound.
This is a great setup, I have a set on hand if you (Coaxial) are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wouldn't worry about speaker ohms unless you push volume to the point of overheating the headunit/amp
I thought about this as well. With a lower ohm load speaker I figured I’d just be hitting the same volume level I’m used to but with a few less clicks on the dial to get there. Still I do worry because I don’t know what to expect due to lack of experience using lower ohm load speakers on decks not rated for it (I’m assuming the deck is just 4 ohm rated since there’s not an external amp that I can find). Would I still be able to turn the volume way down to barely playing as my wife sometimes likes to do just to have background music, or would it still be moderately loud even on low settings? And on the higher volume end, I don’t want to risk the deck overheating. I don’t absolutely jam out or anything but I do like a louder volume than some people. In my head I see me still being able to hit it even with a few clicks less and still not asking the internal amp to hit wattages and heat levels more than normal. My theory is, wattage directly relates to volume in terms of so many watts into a speaker to hit a certain dB volume. With a lower ohm load I’d just hit that wattage sooner, and since wattage is heat, the heat levels shouldn’t be any more than normal. Correct?
 

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Not sure why deadrx7conv would say the impedance isn't something to worry about, that is completely false. All amplifiers (including the one built into your stock head unit) are designed to function with a specific minimum impedance. The amplifier will be damaged operating at a lower impedance. If an amplifier survives, it's either over-engineered or blind luck.
Lowering the impedance results in an increase of current, which will cause significant stress on the components even without turning the volume up much.
Simplified example, 22 watts (typical RMS rating of IC amp used in head unit), 4ohm load, 9.38 volts, 2.35 amps .... it can reasonably be inferred that the components will be built to handle 2.5 amps of current. If you connect a 2 ohm load, you will reach 2.5 amps of current with only 12.5 watts of power ... guess what will happen when you want to achieve similar volume levels? You will keep turning it up and "poof" ... 22 watts with a 2 ohm load will have 3.32 amps of current flowing.

ANS and jtrosky are giving you good advice though.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In that last example with a 2 ohm load, it’s not stated but it appears the voltage at that moment must be much lower than 9.38v since the current was actually increased (3.32a from the original 2.35a) but the total wattage was only 12.5w vs the original 22 watts in the 4 ohm example. So that’s a picture of a lower volume output but in an already overcurrent situation. I am assuming this is a set of values reflecting a setting of a lower volume at the moment, right? If so, then turning up the volume is done by turning up the voltage, which will drive the wattage up and also increase the current flow to even more than 3.32a, and that’s where bad stuff happens, if bad stuff hasn’t already happened.

I’m trying to understand just what is happening in that situation. It seems the volume knob is like a potentiometer, or maybe a rheostat. Either way, it just makes better sense to stick with 4 ohm speakers. There’s lots of great choices at 4 ohms. But those JBL Clubs sure did look good to me. They are a 3 ohm load. That’s splitting the difference but it could still be just as bad. I guess using ohm loads like that depends on too many variables being just right enough not to damage anything. It’s not worth the risk.
 

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Don't forget to figure in the resistance of the wires

Sorry, but formulas are great for exams. But, in the real world, trial and error is more realistic.

I haven't found a headunit or amp that didn't work with the 2-3ohm speakers that are available.
 

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SOURCE (Head Unit):

Although I haven't dealt with the latest Hyundai 2019-2020 MY vehicles, the limiting factor in ALL of the Hyundai's I've installed stereo systems in is the OEM Head Unit.

While the features are usually great, the SQ has been complete crap. IMO, if you really want great SQ, you HAVE TO start with a good, clean, unadulterated source, and IMPE, the Hyundai OEM HU's are NOT that.

Just one example: I installed a full aftermarket system in my GF's old 2012 Santa Fe SE AWD. I started the system by just swapping the OEM head unit for a Kenwood eXcelon Reference DDX9905S head unit, and that alone improved the SQ NIGHT & DAY! Seriously, No joke.

It's not as straightforward to do this in the 2019-2020 Santa Fe, so I would advise installing a good but relatively inexpensive DSP such as the Helix DSP Mini or JL Audio TwK88 that will allow you to connect a separate source unit directly to the DSP in order to completely bypass the OEM head unit.

A portable DAP, such as a FiiO, Hiby, or iBasso works well to provide a clean source signal, from both the analog line outputs or digital outputs. Even an older iPod or iPhone with a simple 30-pin Aux fixed-level Line Out "dock" adapter will sound better.

If you already have one, an newer iPhone/iPad or Android smartphone or tablet connected via USB to the Helix DSP using the Helix HEC USB module would also provide an excellent, clean source signal.

In one my vehicles where I can't install an aftermarket head unit, I use an inexpensive portable Sony Discman in the center console cubby that has a mini Toslink optical output which I connect directly to the DSP's digital Toslink input. Again, SQ is night & day better using this source to bypass the OEM HU, and that Sony Discman was $28 on eBay. It's not the most convenient solution, but it allows me to play any of the 1000's of CD discs that I still have, or my mixed SQ CD-Rs without having the OEM HU reduce them to low-bitrate MP3 quality.

AMPLIFIERS:

You mentioned the possibility of mounting amplifiers under the rear seats. Double-check this in your 2020 SF, because in the 2012 Santa Fe, when you fold the rear seats down (forward) the seat bottoms drop lower to the floor by several inches, eliminating that available space.

One budget-minded amplifier that I've used countless times in friend's & family member's stereo upgrades is the NVX JAD900.5 5-channel, or one of its equivalents sold by other brands such as PPI. It's small, inexpensive, performs well, and will more than adequately power a 2-way active front component set + subwoofer(s), or a passive 2-way front comp set + rear coaxials + subwoofer(s).

SPEAKERS (and DSP):

You can get really great sound with a good 2-way setup if you choose the right drivers and they are installed properly.

I also have not been impressed by JBL's lower-priced offerings...anything below the GTO series. Likewise for Infinity. But maybe the newer models are better. I wouldn't bother though since there are so many other great speakers available for not a lot of money.

I guess if you really don't care about the front imaging and soundstage you could get by without a DSP, but just for the EQ alone, a DSP would be advisable, especially if you'll be using the OEM dash locations. And being able to add some digital delay to the rear speakers might enhance that "enveloping/omni-present" sound that you're after.

If it will fit in the dash locations, a fairly reasonable "raw" DIY tweeter that has truly excellent performance and can be crossed over low to match with a good 6.5" midwoofer is the SB Acoustics SB29RDN-C000-4.

I'd probably still try to fabricate smallish OEM-look tweeter pods in the sail panel or some other area other than using the dash locations, but try the OEM dash locations first and see if you're happy. Since you aren't concerned with having a proper front soundstage, the OEM locations should work fine.

You've already been given some other great suggestions for speaker setups, though. I wouldn't bother or worry too much about trying to fit a 6"x9" over a good 6.5"-7" driver unless it was the CDT 6x9 that was suggested.

SUBWOOFER(S):

I would definitely want to add some type subwoofer setup, though. Even if it's a simple, moderate setup, most people don't realize how much this adds to the listening experience and overall enjoyment of the system.

A pair of 10" Kicker Comp RT subwoofers in a wide but shallow sealed box wouldn't be too expensive, or take up too much cargo space, or need a ton of power.

And yeah, there's a ton of room under the rear cargo floor, especially if you ditch the molded OEM tray.

OEM SYSTEM INTEGRATION:

DIYMA member ANS might know more, but check with both Idatalink Maestro and PAC-Audio...I think Idatalink will be releasing some new OEM system integration interfaces for these current MY Hyundai's in a few weeks.
 

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I think bbfoto is right, Maestro should be coming out with some options soon. My go-to has always been the Audison bit ten or one. They have an algorithm that is able to restore the signal coming from the factory radio. I have not seen another DSP be able to take a factory signal and clean it up as much as the Audison DSP products. I also agree with him, the JBL club speakers are not that good. The sb acoustics if a great midbass with proven results.

I looked up the ratings of the factory head unit and it is 2 ohm stable, you will be fine. I pay a subscription to access a large database of vehicle information.

As much as I like the 6x9 CDT makes, if it were my car, I would stick with a 6.5-7" speaker, you will have better midrange reproduction.

I am releasing a new speaker line next month called SE Audio. I have a 2-way component set which is rated 2 ohm, has 92db Efficiency and would be able to run off the factory radio. It would also handle an aftermarket amplifier if you were to ever upgrade. This would be a nice upgrade without having to dig immediately into a dsp and amplifier. If you are interested, pm me for more info.
 
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