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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
Those amps do look terrific! I’m looking forward to your impressions when playing them. I heard them in Nick’s car, and I thought they were fantastic.

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Me too! One of the reviews here pushed me over the edge to get them. I'm close to getting it preliminarily wrapped up.

I drilled the holes for the switches, but drilled one too big, it needed 13/16 and not 7/8. I have a plastic grommet that can take up the slack and make things right again. The master remote switch is wired, need the amp remote turn on now. I'm not sure how I'm going to run the actual wire from bottom to top, that may be future me's problem.
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I got the MiniDSP stand glued up, then wired it for some pictures and promptly broke the first glue point. The holes in the big piece are to locate the feet, I may have to enlarge them, it might be sitting too high. I did add threaded inserts for the stand too. Here are some progress pictures.
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I went to take a smidge off the part of the stand that attaches to the board, but the saw blade got it and destroyed it, so I bent a new one tonight. I'll cut it to size tomorrow and glue it back together again. When I went out tonight, I noticed that the fumes from the glue stained the top of the MiniDSP, so I need to get a new one or wrap it.

I have the following left:
2 power and ground for the sub amp
Remote turn on wires
Amp turn on switch and wiring
Fix MiniDSP stand

Later:
Wrap board
Power/ground standoffs
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
I got the stand glued up again, I heard a couple cracks as I was putting everything back together so I'm probably going to have to fix my printer and print one. It's holding up so far so we'll see how it goes.

igot The board in and hooked up and started the car and got nothing. I ripped it all out because I thought the master switch was bad, but after 10 minutes of proving everything there I realized the relay didn't have power. It turns out the power and ground for the 1500.1 are backwards:mad: I replaced the fuses and swapped the wires and everything is powered up now.
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The sound is very muffled right now, I assume it is because I haven't set any of the gains, they're turned all the way down on both SIQ amps.

I was also assuming the amps and board were going to be heavy, I was not disappointed! I'm going to let this marinate until I get the wire routing and stand printed and then I'll make supports to level the board and wrap it in something. There's a car show in late August, should give me plenty of time to procrastinate on that.
 

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I got the stand glued up again, I heard a couple cracks as I was putting everything back together so I'm probably going to have to fix my printer and print one. It's holding up so far so we'll see how it goes.

igot The board in and hooked up and started the car and got nothing. I ripped it all out because I thought the master switch was bad, but after 10 minutes of proving everything there I realized the relay didn't have power. It turns out the power and ground for the 1500.1 are backwards:mad: I replaced the fuses and swapped the wires and everything is powered up now.
View attachment 304187
The sound is very muffled right now, I assume it is because I haven't set any of the gains, they're turned all the way down on both SIQ amps.

I was also assuming the amps and board were going to be heavy, I was not disappointed! I'm going to let this marinate until I get the wire routing and stand printed and then I'll make supports to level the board and wrap it in something. There's a car show in late August, should give me plenty of time to procrastinate on that.
Looks great, man!

Ha! Silly wiring mistakes are bound to happen occasionally with so much going on and with wires criss-crossing everywhere! Been there, done that!

Is the layout not finalized? Just wondering why you've left a bit of extra length on all of the amplifier power and ground wires?

And for the time being, would it be easier to just heat-form and bend a small sheet of 3/16" or 1/4" thick ABS for your miniDSP stand mount? It's super easy to cut and shape with standard tools.

And I have never had it deform even when used in the engine compartment for fuse holder mounts on hot summer days in SoCal, so you shouldn't have any issues like you did with the 3D printed parts.

Though IIRC I think you may have already picked up better heat-resistant printer filament?

Had you already preconfigured you miniDSP's I/O signal & channel routing, rough levels, X/Os and T/A on the bench before installing it?

I will also usually set the amplifier's HP X/O for the tweeter channels to a safe "protection" cutoff frequency about an octave below my intended final X/O in the DSP before the first system power up.

And I Hear You on the WEIGHT of these dang amp racks! I just finished up a swap of some gear on an existing vertically-mounted amp rack in my GF's car that is located behind the trim panel in the rear cargo quarter panel area.

The vertical amp rack sits just over and behind the passenger side rear wheel well and projects into the rear fender body cavity. It now has the DSP and 2+2 vertically-stacked amplifiers on it (4 total) with all of the wiring, cooling fans, etc. It's a beast.

It's also a really odd shape in order to fit the opening, and was a very tight squeeze to fit all of the amps on this not-so-large amp board which has to fit in a smallish rear quarter panel cavity.

I felt like a Cirque du Soleil contortionist trying to finagle that heavy and awkward amp rack into place!

Crikey, my back and neck ain't happy right now! The only positive result was that luckily the GF took pity on me, so I got the full body massage treatment. :p

Your getting close, man! You'll have killer tunes playing soon enough! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
@bbfoto thanks for the info. Everything was previously set up in the MiniDSP and luckily I soldered a cap inline on the tweeters a couple weeks ago. At work I checked a picture of the old layout and realized the tweeter and mids were swapped. That was a long day waiting to swap them.

The layout is fixed, but I still want to swap the D6.1200 for a second SIQ75.4. I left the power and ground long because I need to print the wire holders and I didn't want to be short in case I cam up with a different idea that required an unplanned route for that.
I did have the thought about bending the plexi after I was walking inside last night. My main concern with that was getting the height of the stand correct. There is very minimal room to the trunk floor so the height has to be pretty close. I did bend the bottom angle, all of it was 1/4" plexi. I do have the filament issue solved if I can get my printer bed adjusted properly. I'm counting on that for the wire holders, otherwise I'll have to figure out how to flame polish.



@bartholomey I ballparked the gains on the amps, used the bass knob with clipping light to set the gain on the 1500.1 and then duplicated those setting on the 75.4. Without adjusting the gain, it sounded weird since the midbass was adjusted properly. To get the volume right so I could hear, the bass was very overpowering even with the head unit bass setting turned most of the way down. Once I tuned it it is sounding great. I didn't get a chance to listen to a bunch of tracks, but the bass is exactly where I wanted it and it's low!

I'll listen some more and see if I can give any better impressions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
I didn't want to loose momentum so I bent some plexi for the wire guides. The bit is junk but it should be good enough for these holes.
307657

304308
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
It is coming together nicely.
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I was able to flame polish the stands and I figured out some acrylic tips. For these pieces, I should have sanded and flame them before bending. I was able to get them acceptable by reheating and pulling them back into shape. My MAP gas bottle didn't have the right tip so I had to use my propane torch as low as it would go. It turned out how I was imagining it.
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The right side one is t quite long enough for the power wire on that side but it will work. I need to figure out the next wire brackets, it'll probably be a corner piece with 3 or 4 holes on the horizontal and 2 holes going up to the amp.

The stand for the MiniDSP did break so I need to figure that out now :)
 

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It is coming together nicely.
View attachment 304497
I was able to flame polish the stands and I figured out some acrylic tips. For these pieces, I should have sanded and flame them before bending. I was able to get them acceptable by reheating and pulling them back into shape. My MAP gas bottle didn't have the right tip so I had to use my propane torch as low as it would go. It turned out how I was imagining it.
View attachment 304498
The right side one is t quite long enough for the power wire on that side but it will work. I need to figure out the next wire brackets, it'll probably be a corner piece with 3 or 4 holes on the horizontal and 2 holes going up to the amp.

The stand for the MiniDSP did break so I need to figure that out now :)
A very cool solution! Great job!


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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
A very cool solution! Great job!


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Thanks! I started two 4x4 "corner" pieces for the ends of the runs and to the blocks. They are cut out and flame polished, I have to drill and bend them

There will be dual 2 hole brackets for the amps. I'm picturing it working out well 😀

I will have to make all 4 brackets before mounting them, I want to put more threaded inserts in for them since it's easier to install and remove but that will require taking the board out of the car. At that point I might as well wrap the board too 🙄
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Well, the corner pieces turned out like hot garbage so I scrapped the acrylic.

I drew up the new supports and they are way more consistent. It took a lot of work with my friend trying to print the PETG, but I ended up switching out to an all metal hotend on my printer which will let me print at a higher temperature without clogging the print nozzle. Fingers crossed it continues printing well.

On music related news, I finally got around to listening to my testing playlist with the new amps, things are sounding good. I should hopefully get a chance to tune it at the end of the month, I have some forced time off. Right now the playlist is sounding good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
I got everything printed, I have some more tweaking to do on the printer to get better prints, but it's usable now.
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i printed the flat top to hold the MiniDSPthat had a throat to go over the acrylic stand that screwed down, it worked out well and there's very little deflection, I should have enough height above it to the floor and below it to the amps. It should stand up to the heat but I'll keep an eye on it.

I cracked one of the wire stands as I was running the power to the 75.4 and I also realized that the power meter interferes with the length of the other wire stand, so I'll make a new one that shorter and most likely only one support.
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I'm pretty happy with the layouts, I'll trim the wires to length when I wrap the board. I ordered some punches to cut leather, so hopefully they will also cut the vinyl I'm hoping to use.

When I was putting the board back in, somehow the ground lost its lug, so I took the opportunity to crimp the 0ga I got to replace the 4ga from the distribution. I'll also trim that one closer when the board is wrapped.

The umbrella holders I made previously deformed from the heat
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so I made some new ones that should hold up better
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So I should just have to wrap the board, trim the wires and tune it left. I also need to sell the D6.1200 and get another 75.4 to finish it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
I was able to find time to pull the amps and cover the board. I used the black hexagon material, it worked pretty well. I bought a punch set to cut the holes for everything and it worked pretty well.
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Everything that screws down is insert nuts except the power/ground blocks and the D6.1200 since that one is going to get replaced. There are rubber grommets on all the signal wires.
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I ended up reprinting the two corner stands and one of the four wire stands and repulsed all the wires.
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I needed the power sensor wire alittle bit longer so I used my last CD-ROM drive audio cable and put the correct ends on it and now have a wire that's long enough to cover the power wire at the back of the car.
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I plan on cutting the source power wire down to length now that everything is pretty much fixed. I'm not sure if I'm going to leave the ground on the right side or switch to the factoryground and lose 2ish feet off the ground run from the block.

I also put the new remote holder up front, I printed the wrong model or I didn't make the final change from the last revision so it doesn't sit exactly right but it looks good right now.
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Can't you rotate your photos?

I'd love to see them, but it hurts my neck...

cool green wires...
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
Can't you rotate your photos?

I'd love to see them, but it hurts my neck...

cool green wires...
Sorry about that, they all showed up fine on the phone but rotated on the post. All fixed now.

I was going to just go with the green/black for the sub wire, but the power wire took up so much room it was going to be a hassle to run underneath and out of the way of the signals so I switched to a more eye catcher green power on top. Has to match the green eyesore of the outside of the car :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Did some measurements today, the first time using Room EQ with a purpose. I had a UMM-6 hooked over USB into my MacBook Pro, audio out was the headphone jack into the RCA in of the MiniDSP. I was trying to go through the head unit to be more representative of what I'm listening to but the tweeters cut off after about a minute or two of running the car on battery only. I'm guessing it's got something to do with the AmpPro, so I switched to the RCA cable.

I did an average of three measurements-left, center, right with the microphone held under the headrest pointing at the windshield. Turns out the sub is 20dB up on the rest of the system 🤣

Here's the measurement with levels at 0dB, no EQ:
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Heres the measurement with my approximate level adjustment and eq enabled on the MiniDSP:
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Looks like I was trying to match the right null from 250-400 on the left side eq.

Here's the comparison between the two:
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Now that I know how to hook up the car I imagine I'll sink a bunch more time into this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I ordered the other 75.4 I need, hopefully it'll be in this week.

I also spent a bunch of time measuring and calculating curves and EQ. I measured from the back seat without the headrest using sweeps. Tweeter crossover was lowered to about 800, midrange to around 100, did 8 sweeps for each speaker. Then did 8 more because I forgot to save the right tweeter.

I wanted to go through the process of EQ'ing with REW so I started with Jazzi's spreadsheet and calculated some target curves. I was able to do a decent job of hitting the curves per speaker, with the exception of the large nulls in the mid bass. I haven't level adjusted the speakers or sides, but I did use the same target level of 80dB for each speaker. I have unsurprisingly lost the centered image, but it does sound different than the stock. It may sound better, Johnny Cash's voice in Bird on a Wire is much less boomy and more distinct. The highs are still a bit too bright, but I'll look into it more when I measure the result of the tunes. I have settings for Jazzi's and JBL Andy's curves at 80dB target level.

Current attempted crossovers are 80, 400 and 3500.

Any suggestions on starting levels for my speakers? They were all set at 0dB in the MiniDSP.

Left
Human body Organism Slope Line Font


Right
Organism Font Slope Pattern Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
I measured with pink noise last night and I had some significant dips at the crossovers so I inverted the mid range and it seemed to fix those spots. I realized now that I think I had my sunshade in the passenger footwell while I was measuring, so I think that did effect what the mic was reading.

Ihavebeen able to identify an issue with my tune so far. Most of the songs sound pretty good, but as I was listening to Hotel California on the way home, I noticed I can't hear both guitars in the beginning. I have a couple dips in the low end, I suspect one of them is eating the guitar. It should be cooler this weekend so hopefully I'll get a chance to measure them again and fix the levels and the missing guitar.

I haven't noticed anything wrong like that on either of my two testing playlists (aside from excessive highs in White Lines) So I'm overall happy with the way it's turning out so far.

I got the last 75.4 today, so hopefully that's just a level adjustment.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Microcontroller Computer hardware
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Spent more time RTAing today with pink noise and got the response a lot flatter at 1/3. I got most of the dip at 67Hz up. I remeasured for time alignment, it sounds a lot better but there is still more left to do.
 
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