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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings,

Old member but new poster here.

I just took delivery of the aforementioned car (8 speaker / no factory amp) and I must say I love everything about it except the stereo, which is atrocious to say the least. I'll be redoing everything except the HU with an emphasis on SQ. I have some preferences but only a few details are set in stone so far. Let me know what you'd do. I have a loose budget of around $1,000 on equipment. I'll be doing everything myself including building the sub box, whether it be MDF or fiberglass. Purchasing to start ASAP.

The stipulations:
  • I have no desire to go active. For simplicity of installation, cost, and the limitations of my own damaged hearing. Edit: Looks like I'm going active now since I'm almost 100% sold on the Dayton DSP.
  • Passive components in front, coaxials or components in the rear. Keeping rear speakers to be able to fade/enable when I let the kids play their movies through the main system. Edit: see above
  • I have no intention of sealing doors and deck/trunk. I have about 70 lbs of KillMat leftover from previous installs to use in those areas but don't plan to do much more than that.

Here my other thoughts per component:

Front speakers
I love the JBL GTO609C's. Used them in several installs and they just fit my ears very well. Seem to tune easily to my liking. Open to other suggestions in the price range. I put ID components in my old truck and they were nice too, albeit not the best install in cheapie kickpanels.

Rear speakers
Something similar to or matching the fronts. Only used when rear passengers are onboard.

Subwoofer(s)
Not sure. Thinking maybe IDQ or Dayton HOs. Two 8's, one or two 10's, one 12, any of those would fit the bill. Haven't decided sealed or ported yet. Would like to design my own ported and build on my very limited experience with WinISD but sealed is usually easier to cover my range of listening preferences: classic rap, classic rock, country.

Amp(s)
I'd prefer a 5 channel, one-amp solution but would consider a 4 channel and dedicated sub amp. looking for 400-500w to the sub channel. I've been very impressed with the Rockville DB55's I've used in several low-budget builds for others but I'd like something a little higher end if possible on the budget.

Processing, etc.
I was thinking AudioControl LC7i Dayton DSP-408 from factory HU speaker-outs straight into the amp unless I get an amp that doesn't necessitate it. Not sure if DSP is in the plans & budget. I really want to tune based on measurements this time. Seeking opinions for this whole department as I don't have much experience here.

Install & power
I have a few hundred pounds of high quality 2, 4, and 6 gauge power cable. Will use for big-3 as well if needed.

Factory integration - Here's where I have a problem. I would've thought for sure someone makes a speaker level breakout T-harness for this car, I can't find anything. I'm willing to manufacture one if I could find the connectors or a reverse harness. I can't believe there's not one out there but I couldn't find it.

Sorry for the long post, I know I'm trying to cover a lot of ground in one shot. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Steve
 

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I like the long post, shows you are putting a lot of thought into it. I have a 2019 Passport and my Honda REALLY responded well when sound deadening was applied...

Post some pics as you go along...
 
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For the price of the Dayton dsp, I’d suggest that rather than the LC7, unless summing channels is needed.
With the base oem audio, my guess is the front (hopefully rear too for convenience) speaker signal is full range, and can be used as a high level input going to the dsp.

I know there are people with noise issues, but this is usually when using rca vs high level inputs.
If you do have noise, the $15 minidsp isolator should resolve it.

Don’t forget to budget for a UMIK-1 or similar budget mic!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've briefly looked at the Dayton as well and it's in the running. I'd love to add DSP if I can. Problem is I'm not sure what I need. I don't yet know what signals I have coming out of the HU, still researching if I need summing, etc.. Using a mic for tuning will be completely new to me.

Will the Dayton take 4 channel inputs and convert to 4 channel + sub output?
 

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In the DSP software you can route which input goes to which output. You can also sum the inputs for a sub. Or sum inputs to combine signals. Not sure what the 2021 accord factory system does to the signal but my 2015 with Nav has a flat output if you pick the signal up between the factory HU and factory amp. For the non-Nav systems, this isn't the case. The honda forums should have the info you need to find.

I'm sure there are plenty of youtube vids on setting up the dayton dsp for you to check out.

The other option you could consider is the minidsp 6x8. It has alot of same features as the dayton DSP but doesn't have the noise issue to deal with. It also has a digital coax input that you can use to simply bypass the factory system and run audio off a USB device like a phone I use a Fiio DAC connected to my phone (output is digital coax).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reading more into the Dayton DSP, I think I can run straight into that and skip the LOC, I'm still reading up on the factory outputs but regardless I should be able to make it work.

Now that being said, It's just a small jump to go active within the same budget so I guess I'm changing my mind on that one. I don't want to be tuning for a week and then realize I need more control. So now I need to start looking into individual drivers for that. I'm thinking of maybe keeping the rear speakers running off the stock HU for the occasions they'll be used. I won't need much volume there. Makes more sense to me than a six channel amp or another dedicated amp just for those, I can just use the stock HU fader. Prove me wrong?...

Looking into subs now. I need to keep at least part of the trunk passthrough so either a single on one of the side trunk cubbies or a single or small duals off to one side up against the seat. I know there's literally 1,000,000 options but would love some suggestions. Again, thinking I'd prefer to go ported if I can tune it correctly.

Thanks again so far
 

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I think you're on the right track if you intend to retain the stock system. The dayton DSP + miniDSP dc isolator is around the same price as a used miniDSP 6x8 so either would be a good option for a simple system like this.

I found some good info on your car in this thread. Speaker upgrades and subwoofer install for the 2018+...

Looks like you can do something similar to the 9th gen accords where you can grab signal from harness for your DSP. Doesn't look like its necessarily a flat signal but you can make it work.

Stock positions for a 6.5 woofer and 1 inch tweeter seem to work about as well as the 9th gen. I liked the 9th gen sails more for tweeter installs but folks posted how to make them work in the thread.

Make sure you're deadening and sealing the doors. I'd recommend Resonix if you can swing it. https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/

If your car has ANC make sure you disable it!

For a sub, you could look at Dayton HO for a good budget option. First you should figure out how much gross space you're wiling to give up and then pick a sub.

Are you still running the fronts passive? You could run an active 2way front sub plus subwoofer from a 5 channel amp. Or run a passive front stage and sub off a 4 channel amp with the rear channels bridged.
 

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Leave the OEM rears there, no need to swap them out at all.

Figure out how much space you have before choosing a sub. Depending on the volume of box that you can fit within your limitations, a particular sub may or may not be ideal.

There are plenty of great 5-channel amps out there. I'm running a Kenwood Excelon 5-channel and it has been very good so far.

You will almost certainly NOT need to do any "big-3" work, especially if you use a modern class D amp.

Buy the best front speakers you can with what's left over. If you do go with an active 2-way setup, make sure to put special emphasis on the tweeter, it will need to play low, and if you have space limitations then you'll need to pay more for a tweeter that can play low and is also small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Why looking at a DSP but in the first post you say you don't want to go active?
Because either way I'll likely have to tune extensively. I'm stuck with the stock hu.

I wasn't sure a dsp was in the budget either. Now that it is I wouldn't mind going active if I can do it without blowing the amp budget & keep the rears operable.
 

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I just sold my 19' Sport. My budget in the beginning was similar to yours. However, in the end it ended up tripling. Oh well! It was fun.

My experience that maybe will help you some. Deaden the doors and trunk.....made a big difference in midbass and keeping subwoofer sound in the vehicle. No big-3 is needed. I was running a tad over 2k watts of class D amp power with zero issues. I just added an AGM battery although, not sure that was even needed. I pulled the signal from the front speakers just inside the kick panels. It is full but, anything from flat. There's where a dsp comes in handy. I used a Helix dsp.3. I faded everything up front. Just ran 6" in lower doors and tweeters in sails. Got used to no rear speakers real quick. Trunk is huge in this car. I had a 2 cuft port sub with amp rack and still had tons of room. I ended up removing rear speakers from rear deck thinking I could get extra sound from the sub to come through.......didn't notice a difference, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Lots of helpful stuff in the last few posts, thanks! I've edited my original post to reflect how things are evolving.

Lithium - That's a heck of a head start on the car-specific stuff. I came across some of that recently but it's helpful to have it all right here. Also the Dayton HO was already on the very short list of subs so far. I still have a little way to go before I pin that part down.

gijoe - Sub planning suggestion noted. I'll go at it in that order for sure. Also the low-playing tweets... I do have populated tweeter pods from the factory, it wouldn't be the end of the world to modify them if it's worth it. I can do fiberglass, body filler, vinyl, etc on those. I can get of build new ones easily enough if something goes wrong. I like the Hertz Mille so far but that's a little more than I wanted to spend. Again, I the budget is as firm as warm Jello. Also agree I don't intend to tax the factory electrical system enough to require upgrades, RMS total for the whole system is looking at around 800-1000 watts. I was being overly cautious I suppose (I'm also used to older vehicles).

Platoon - All good info. I doubt I'll get close to 2 cu ft. I think the options I'm looking at run 1-1.5 max so I should be fine on remaining trunk space.

Regarding deadening, I do have about 70 lbs of decent 50 mil butyl material intended for doors & trunk. It's worked very well in the past. The ResoNix stuff looks real nice but $$$, wow. They actually have a pretty good data page for my car for a nice sneak peek into the doors. Look like they would be easy enough to seal. I wasn't going to but if the juice is worth the squeeze while I'm in there, why not right?

Things are evolving well. Please keep 'em coming!
 

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Message sent about Hertz Mille speakers...

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is this true? If so i may wire my in high level the first time around and see what happens
It seems most noise problems arise when using the RCA inputs which I won't be using. They are spec'd at a max of 3.2v which would explain why some have noise issues through RCA in cars which normally exceed 4v but not speaker-level. I could be wrong. There's a good explanation in one of the reviews on the Parts Express website if I remember correctly. I'll try to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Message sent about Hertz Mille speakers...

Well damn...... Looks like that first purchase is happening now. Someone stop me quick if there's something better! I don't need the crossovers but still killer deal!
 

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Well, I can slow you down...I'm off to bed...lol
 

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Within the first 10 minutes of the following video, Dean at 5 Star Car Stereo in Clearwater, Florida goes over the possible signal routing in various models of the Accord. He also mentions and shows us the OEM ANC module and says where it is located...actually behind and above the glove box near the A/C blower unit. Some of the other installation information may give you some ideas as well.

Unfortunately, Dean records and posts these daily install videos on Instagram, hence the "portrait" or vertical video orientation. :( He then combines all of these individual daily Instagram videos together into one long video and posts them on YouTube, which is what the following video is. He also answers a lot of unrelated random questions during the daily Instagram Live Streams, so there is a lot of "filler" information to sift through, although some of it may be very informative or applicable to your system as well.

Dean & Fernando have also posted several full Honda Accord Install videos on this 5 Star Car Stereo YouTube channel, as well as short individual topics on their "Dean and Fernando's Car Stereo Clips" YouTube channel, so you might want to search that YouTube channel as well for specific topics or info.

Have fun with your install.

 

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I have no intention of sealing doors and deck/trunk. I have about 70 lbs of KillMat leftover from previous installs to use in those areas but don't plan to do much more than that.
Regarding the statement above:

If you don't plan on completely sealing and sound deadening the front doors where the 6.5" midwoofers will be mounted, and treating the door panels as well, don't waste your money on good expensive front component speakers because you'll only achieve maybe 50% of the performance that they are capable of. You'll have weak midbass response, additional cancellation peaks & nulls that will be very difficult or impossible to correct with DSP, resonating doors and door panels that destroy the imaging and soundstage cues, and...more. :(

And if you're planning on putting the subwoofer in the trunk, the decklid will most likely rattle and resonate at certain frequencies which will kill your enjoyment of the system and the potential of achieving excellent "up front" bass.

FYI, good equipment helps, HOWEVER, the Quality of the INSTALL is WAY more important than the EQUIPMENT you use. ;)
 
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