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2021 Chevy Silverado RST Crew Cab Build

6612 Views 96 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Mike_Saw_75
I know I know another Silverado build log. This is my 2021 Silverado 1500 RST (non-bose) with the 6.2L. Currently have the Borla S-type exhaust and S&B cold air intake. Looking to do a 4 inch lift and some 35's in the future. For now though the focus is the sound system.
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I am very green when it comes to car audio but since joining DIYMA I have to say I have learned a lot and continue to learn every time I check the forums.

My setup will sound very familiar to many here since I will be running some of @RickWilson old (new to me) equipment. I purchased his JL Audio Stealthbox, Helix V8 dsp mk2 and Helix P-one. This totally got the ball rolling and I have already changed what I had originally planned. Along with the above equipment I will be running Audiofrog GS10's in Valicar Pods, GS25's in the stock dash location and Audiofrog GS62 in the rear doors since I usually have my kids back there. I planned on the GS690's in the front doors but after reading so many posts, I ended up purchasing the Blam WS6's from @clange2485. He is local and I am glad to have such a great guy nearby if I need help with something.

Today I started the actual build after accumulating all the little things that one needs to do a full install. I mounted the Knukonceptz fuse holder on some 1/4" ABS. It will have a nice short run to the battery.
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I also made all the wiring harnesses that I need to run the GS10 and GS25. I ended up using Knukonceptz 16 Gauge in blue and also red/black so I know what connects to which speaker. Probably made them a little to long but better than coming up short.
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My plan is to run the one set on the drivers side and the other on the passenger side. Seems to be easier this way but who knows.

I then made a 10 gauge speaker harness for the stealthbox and finished off the ends with ferrules.
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Since I will be running an LLJ Custom Harness which has a 12 volt +/- and need to get 12 volts to the center console I made a harness to go to the Audison B-Con I am installing. I also will be wiring this harness to a 12v to 5v usb micro converter to make it easier to plug into the B-Con.
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Last but not least I wired up the Audiofrog TP-50v2 tweeter protectors using some XT-30 connectors. I wired them so I can take them out and still be able to plug in the speakers. Never know if they go bad or not.
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More to come as time allows.
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Looks good. Never too many Silverado builds if you drive a Silverado and your getting ready to start yours. Was the 1/4" ABS something you had laying around or are you using it somewhere else, like mounting amps or building amp racks with ? I'm getting soooo close to starting on my truck but I'm still undetermined on amp rack material. I'm doing the rear wall rack like Rick. I'm going to try to utilize every lat bit of space back there for it. HPDE is an hour and a half drive away and only in 4x8 sheets. ABS is close by and I can buy it in whatever dimensions I want but I don't know if it's going to work at 1/4" thick for a full size amp board. My LMI seat lift showed up today so I'm going to install it tomorrow and determine what I'm going to use for amp rack. Just curious if you were planning to use ABS ?
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ABS really isn’t my fav for amp rack. Annoying as hell to route, doesn’t really take thread inserts well. It will drill and tap but I prefer threaded inserts for amp racks.

I much prefer HPDE or expanded pvc. I use 1/2” expanded pvc for my truck.
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HDPE has its place but if you intend to glue pieces of it together it is not the best choice. The expanded pvc is nice too work with.

For any areas in the engine compartment I would recommend nothing but ABS and minimum 1/4". I bought the ABS sheet from Amazon.

There are some good videos on YouTube from 5 Star Car Stereo and Mark from CAF that cover certain materials depending on the application.

Good luck with your build @Tfunk
Thanks fellas. I've never really used ABS but figured it would be a pain to work with because anything over 1/2" they call machine grade. I do plan on threaded inserts and so I was planning either one of the 2 Rick mentioned I just wondered if you were going to use the ABS and what thickness if you were. I'll probably make the drive to pick some up HDPE sometime next week. I can get that with a texture on it that looks kinda nice.
So now you’re running the Blam 6” and Piccolo tweeters I hope? What midrange you gonna go with?
Thanks fellas. I've never really used ABS but figured it would be a pain to work with because anything over 1/2" they call machine grade. I do plan on threaded inserts and so I was planning either one of the 2 Rick mentioned I just wondered if you were going to use the ABS and what thickness if you were. I'll probably make the drive to pick some up HDPE sometime next week. I can get that with a texture on it that looks kinda nice.
HPDE is wayyyyy easier to use with threaded inserts - highly highly recommend going that route
So now you’re running the Blam 6” and Piccolo tweeters I hope? What midrange you gonna go with?
I will be running the WS6 in the doors and currently have the AF GS25 and GS10. I have vailcar pods for the GS10 and may just use the GS25 for now until I decide to upgrade them. I saw some brand new Stereo Integrity M3 Carbons in the classified which look to be pretty decent for the money.
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Well all this time not working on my install and being on DIYMA a lot has led me to a few changes to my build.

I originally was going with the Helix Conductor and planned on mounting it in the same location as RickWilson. I even had the mount made by a friend of mine and it is currently in my truck just to see how I like it there. I like it but I usually have a large Yeti and the handle on that thing just doesn't play well with the conductor in that location.

My hunt was on from there to find a Helix Director and thanks to @quickaudi07 I was able to get one very quick since he lives not to far from me.

I am currently having my friend 3D print a panel that will house the director and sit just below the controls on the dash. Nice and tucked away and will look somewhat factory. Below are some mock ups.

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More updates coming since I was able to work on my truck today.
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Well all this time not working on my install and being on DIYMA a lot has led me to a few changes to my build.

I originally was going with the Helix Conductor and planned on mounting it in the same location as RickWilson. I even had the mount made by a friend of mine and it is currently in my truck just to see how I like it there. I like it but I usually have a large Yeti and the handle on that thing just doesn't play well with the conductor in that location.

My hunt was on from there to find a Helix Director and thanks to @quickaudi07 I was able to get one very quick since he lives not to far from me.

I am currently having my friend 3D print a panel that will house the director and sit just below the controls on the dash. Nice and tucked away and will look somewhat factory. Below are some mock ups.

View attachment 366589

View attachment 366590

More updates coming since I was able to work on my truck today.
A great idea man! Anxious to see how this plays out, I might interested in this because of the double digital inputs I use now. Director makes toggling that pretty easy.

Makes sure he saves all the files and if he wants to make two of them, I'd be down to pay for it.
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Finally had a nice day in Illinois that reached 50's and my son did not have any basketball games = Work on the truck day!

I've been dreading running all the wiring but I dove right in today and after maybe 5 hours it was done (Mostly). I kept hearing horror stories about fishing the 4 gauge wire through the firewall. It took all of 10 minutes using the flexible fish tape from Amazon.

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I did not have to disconnect anything from under the dash. The fish tape uses wire loops to attach to the wire(s) your pulling and the red part makes it just easy to pull.

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You can see below the channel that GM uses which makes running wires from front to back super easy.

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Having the wire harnesses pre-made is well worth doing before you just plan on running wires.

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After running the power cable I ran the LLJ Loopback Harness, speaker wire sets for the midrange and tweeters on both the passenger side and drivers side. I also ran the Helix Director harness from the middle of the dash to the back.

I tried to run power wires, remote wire and the AudioQuest optical from the back of the center console to the back wall and it was not even worth the hassle. I ran it instead from the middle of the console under the passenger seat then through the channel to the back. So much easier.

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This is going to be used to power the Audison B-Con and send optical from that to the dsp. Still need to come up with some mount for the B-Con inside the center console.

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After I finished running the wires and getting all the panels back on I wired up the positive cable to the fuse block.

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After some cut up hands I called it a day. Lol
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Excellent progress man. I need that fish tape!
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Nice work! Looks like it’s coming together perfectly
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Not much happening as far as work on my truck however I have my full 3-way setup ready to go. Still waiting for the Valicar Pods for the tweeters. I decided I really wanted to do this one time and splurged on these components. When good deals come around they are hard to pass up.

Glamour shot of the Blam Signature Multix WS6, Gladen Aerospace 80pp and the Morel Supremo Piccolo V2.
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Looking forward to hearing all 3 of these working together!
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Sunday funday update.
I picked up the 3D printed panel my friend printed that will house the Helix director.

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Turned out really good for a test print. I might actually use it after I do a little trimming and a few relief cuts. It is a tight fit and not quite at the angle I want. A little sanding and I think it will be good.

I also test fit the Gladen Aerospace 80 in the dash pods I purchased from @RickWilson which housed his Morel MM3s. The Gladens fit but as you can see there is some space in between the speaker and housing.

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I ended up having my friend 3D print some rings to fill the gap. Not really sure if I should screw them in, epoxy them or use some CA glue.

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I had him make some thicker rings to go on the bottom of the dash pods. This will allow me to actually bolt the speaker into the pod. Pretty sure they will not be going anywhere. After a little trimming on the bottom they fit really well.

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Next up I need to test fit everything in the truck itself and see if I need to trim any of the dash where the Gladen will be. Based on just looking at them I might not need to.
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Question for the ones smarter than me.

I recently purchased a Fiio Btr7 Portable DAC to mainly use with some IEMs I purchased. I would like to "occasionally" hardwire this to my Helix V8 if possible to test different audio signals.

I watched a review of this DAC from Car Audio Horizon on YT and he is using a 3.5 to RCA cable but on a Helix Ultra. I am using the high level input from my factory radio on A, B, C & D.

How would I be able to connect this using an RCA? (Not BT)
To add to the above..
I also will be using the Audison B-Con which will be hardwired using an optical toslink to the input on the V8. This will be primarily BT only but have an adapter to go from my Android S22 Ultra to the B-Con using an adapter and another toslink.
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Does your Helix V8 have a coax input? That's what the 3.5 to rca is for. It's a SPDIF connector to coax
It does not, only has the 6 line inputs to accept RCAs.
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Not much happening on the build lately. Got my Valicar pods for the piccolos and test fit them on the a-pillars and got them aimed at opposite b-pillars around ear height. Marked the holes but have not drilled anything yet.
I played around with the Helix software and set up crossovers which I think are a good starting point. For reference high level inputs from LLJ Harness (A, B, C, D) and outputs are pictured in the screenshot.
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