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2021 Chevy Silverado RST Crew Cab Build

6612 Views 96 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Mike_Saw_75
I know I know another Silverado build log. This is my 2021 Silverado 1500 RST (non-bose) with the 6.2L. Currently have the Borla S-type exhaust and S&B cold air intake. Looking to do a 4 inch lift and some 35's in the future. For now though the focus is the sound system.
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I am very green when it comes to car audio but since joining DIYMA I have to say I have learned a lot and continue to learn every time I check the forums.

My setup will sound very familiar to many here since I will be running some of @RickWilson old (new to me) equipment. I purchased his JL Audio Stealthbox, Helix V8 dsp mk2 and Helix P-one. This totally got the ball rolling and I have already changed what I had originally planned. Along with the above equipment I will be running Audiofrog GS10's in Valicar Pods, GS25's in the stock dash location and Audiofrog GS62 in the rear doors since I usually have my kids back there. I planned on the GS690's in the front doors but after reading so many posts, I ended up purchasing the Blam WS6's from @clange2485. He is local and I am glad to have such a great guy nearby if I need help with something.

Today I started the actual build after accumulating all the little things that one needs to do a full install. I mounted the Knukonceptz fuse holder on some 1/4" ABS. It will have a nice short run to the battery.
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I also made all the wiring harnesses that I need to run the GS10 and GS25. I ended up using Knukonceptz 16 Gauge in blue and also red/black so I know what connects to which speaker. Probably made them a little to long but better than coming up short.
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My plan is to run the one set on the drivers side and the other on the passenger side. Seems to be easier this way but who knows.

I then made a 10 gauge speaker harness for the stealthbox and finished off the ends with ferrules.
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Since I will be running an LLJ Custom Harness which has a 12 volt +/- and need to get 12 volts to the center console I made a harness to go to the Audison B-Con I am installing. I also will be wiring this harness to a 12v to 5v usb micro converter to make it easier to plug into the B-Con.
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Last but not least I wired up the Audiofrog TP-50v2 tweeter protectors using some XT-30 connectors. I wired them so I can take them out and still be able to plug in the speakers. Never know if they go bad or not.
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More to come as time allows.
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Not much happening on the build lately. Got my Valicar pods for the piccolos and test fit them on the a-pillars and got them aimed at opposite b-pillars around ear height. Marked the holes but have not drilled anything yet.
I played around with the Helix software and set up crossovers which I think are a good starting point. For reference high level inputs from LLJ Harness (A, B, C, D) and outputs are pictured in the screenshot.
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Let’s catch up this week. I can probably combine a few tunes from my truck for you. Also - I’d personally suggest running Bluetooth over the high level. It’s better than the oem signal. There’s an all pass filter in the oem signal that I can recall where it is.
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@RickWilson, I see you’ve moved to Canada. 🤔
Only until sunday lol
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I noticed that, do you work up there ?
Just up for the weekend. Fiancé is speaking at a conference.
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Got the Gladens mounted in the dash pods using the 3D printed mounting rings. I epoxied the top ring in and used some 1/16th foam to seal the speaker and used stainless hardware.
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These are a very shallow midrange speaker and I might not have to do too much trimming to the actual truck to make them fit.
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I also started to work on the amp rack a little. I changed out the distribution blocks to 4-ways since I intend on installing the Blue Seas 5032 ST blade fuse block and 12v relay. Will have full power and accessory power available for wiring the small stuff (B-Con and Director)
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Not to sure about having the power so close to the speaker outputs but I think I may be safe?
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All these builds and classifieds about Mosconi amps got me thinking... Lol

Don't worry @clange2485 I'm not going to do it.... YET!
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bad influence post incoming
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Nice save on Rick's dash pieces. Can't help but wonder though if you haven't choked off the mids with the ring underneath? Looks like not a lot of space to breathe. Is there anyway to open that up? If not I'd think about not using it.
All these builds and classifieds about Mosconi amps got me thinking... Lol

Don't worry @clange2485 I'm not going to do it.... YET!
Funny guy! Depending on how long you can wait, you might end up with mine and a couple new speaker options as well. 😆
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Nice save on Rick's dash pieces. Can't help but wonder though if you haven't choked off the mids with the ring underneath? Looks like not a lot of space to breathe. Is there anyway to open that up? If not I'd think about not using it.
They still have some space underneath to breathe and I plan on making sure there is open space in the dash itself.

Once I get them installed and tuned then I can see if I need to modify anything.
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Nice save on Rick's dash pieces. Can't help but wonder though if you haven't choked off the mids with the ring underneath? Looks like not a lot of space to breathe. Is there anyway to open that up? If not I'd think about not using it.
Are you thinking a chamfer or making the cut out larger and the plate thinner? Combo of everything?

I didn’t notice it until you look at the stock photo but your right. Hopefully it doesn’t cause an issue.

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Are you thinking a chamfer or making the cut out larger and the plate thinner? Combo of everything?

I didn’t notice it until you look at the stock photo but your right. Hopefully it doesn’t cause an issue.

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At the very least chamfer. Adding the top mounting baffle didn’t strengthen it up enough? (Rick didn’t need any more thickness with about all twelve pair he tried! 😂)If it did I wouldn’t even use the bottom piece. Just some flat washers would be sufficient. I’d like to at least see how much it opens up the back side of the speaker without it.
@Dave G Check post #35 in this thread. These are some pictures to show you the pod and how it fit prior to the rings. Definitely open more but right on the edge for mounting holes.
When I installed the top ring there was not much material on the pod itself to secure to. That is why I epoxied it into place. I had to use the bottom ring because there was not a flat enough surface to use washers. I could probably trim the bottom ring a little bit not enough to make a huge difference.
Now I'm curious on if this will be an issue or not when it comes to playing and tuning. I might just let my ears figure it out.
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Shout out to @Dave G for calling out the possible choking of my midrange using the bottom 3D ring. Being a newbie I did not even think of that when I was originally installing them. Below you can see the lack of air space.
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I ended up not using the bottom ring and taking my dremel to the dash pod where the bolts go through. It does not look pretty but it works.
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This allowed me to bolt the speaker in with a 6/32 stainless machine screw, washer and locknut. Since the top ring is epoxied it is plenty strong. As you can see there is much more space for the speaker to breathe.
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Shout out to @Dave G for calling out the possible choking of my midrange using the bottom 3D ring. Being a newbie I did not even think of that when I was originally installing them. Below you can see the lack of air space.
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I ended up not using the bottom ring and taking my dremel to the dash pod where the bolts go through. It does not look pretty but it works.
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This allowed me to bolt the speaker in with a 6/32 stainless machine screw, washer and locknut. Since the top ring is epoxied it is plenty strong. As you can see there is much more space for the speaker to breathe.
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Much better! Good job! It would have been a shame to have done that to those beautiful mids. Now it’s time to get them playing!
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Got a little work done on the director mount this weekend. I ended up making a few adjustments to the 3D printed mount and had a new one made. This one fits much better. Just had to trim a little for the DMP to fit due to the 6 serrated points. Used some XTC-3D to fill in the print lines. Wet sanded with 400 and 600 and sprayed a few coats of SEM build primer. Finished it off with a few coats of SEM trim paint.
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I ended up using a little cloth tape around the perimeter. It is a nice snug fit and does not require anything to secure it to the console. I have to say I am pretty pleased with how it turned out.
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For connecting to the usb on the director I could easily just take it out and plug in but wanted something more convenient. I ended up using an 11 inch 90 degree usb panel extension cable and mounted it to the blank cover where normally a 120v outlet would be (Don't have that option on my truck).
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So far I am pretty happy with how it looks. Now to work on getting the B-Con mounted and wired in the center console. Little by little it is coming along.
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That looks really good. You may want to think about flipping the director though so your hand isn't in the way of the screen. More of a comfort thing from a usability standpoint.
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That looks really good. You may want to think about flipping the director though so your hand isn't in the way of the screen. More of a comfort thing from a usability standpoint.
Yep agreed. I run the knob to the right for that exact reason. Software will let you flip the screen.
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I was thinking the same thing. I will probably flip it around as long as the usb cable is long enough which it should be.
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