DIYMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner
1 - 20 of 46 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
After a lot of debating and asking about, I settled down on my equipment, which I just received (pictured below. Note my cat praying on the new equipment).
Front stage:
Audiofrog 3-way GB series: GB60, GB25, GB10 (100W each)
Rear fill:
Hertz MPX165.3 pro (100W)
Subwoofer:
JL 12W6v3-D4 (600W)
Amplification
2 Helix C Four (150Wx4)
Helix C One (525W)
DSP
Helix DSP Ultra + Director + Hec BT

This is my first build so a little nerves. Managed to get the C Fours and the DSP Ultra second hand for a reasonable price. Crossing fingers everything will work fine. Still don't know what I'll do about the source, will try first to get an optical signal from the HU with a technician, and if that doesn't work probably going for an aftermarket android HU. Going to fabricate the A pillars for sure. The car comes with 6 speakers in the back, including two on the c pillars and might use them as well for rear fill, that remains to be seen.
Now... the only thing that is still missing is THE CAR!!! which should arrive mid august.
Will keep this post updated.
304634
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats some nice equipment you got there man! It's going to sound real good. Just take your time and don't rush things. Try to do everything the best you can the first time so you don't have to keep going back. I really would like to try a set of those Audiofrogs someday.
Will do, thanks. Especially wanted good amp+dsp basis so that I can experiment in the future mostly with the speakers if not satisfied. Going to take the time with the install and try not to cut corners.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
When you first install it you'll be disappointed, as you'll have rushed the tune in your excitement to get it going! Double back and build it up in layers and then you'll be cooking. That's where the fun is at.
I have a person who specializes in DSP tuning, think a lot has to do with that, going to take my time with the tuning. And going for the best installer in my area. He's not cheap, uses special fabrication equipment including simulation sowtware, but I think it will be worth it. I'm all for doing thing thoroughly the first time. It is also more cost effective in the long run IMO.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
I have a person who specializes in DSP tuning, think a lot has to do with that, going to take my time with the tuning. And going for the best installer in my area. He's not cheap, uses special fabrication equipment including simulation sowtware, but I think it will be worth it. I'm all for doing thing thoroughly the first time. It is also more cost effective in the long run IMO.
perhaps it might be best that you get a rather simple let it run tune so that it doesnt take hours and costs cheap,
after the drivers have worked in alittle (break in period altought some state there is no such thing my belief definatley differs) you can go back to the shop and then have a proper tune and also be able to pin point all the areas you want fixed

if your not too far from Hayarkon I usually stay at Tal by the beach off Hayarkon and often visit (3-4 times a year) once I get my second shot and your borders ease off I plan to visit and will happily tune with all my experience I have off a umik 1 for free as a gesture and if you dont like it you can simply erase it from the preset on the dsp or jump from preset to preset to compare which you like better (the Israeli tech or mine)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
perhaps it might be best that you get a rather simple let it run tune so that it doesnt take hours and costs cheap,
after the drivers have worked in alittle (break in period altought some state there is no such thing my belief definatley differs) you can go back to the shop and then have a proper tune and also be able to pin point all the areas you want fixed

if your not too far from Hayarkon I usually stay at Tal by the beach off Hayarkon and often visit (3-4 times a year) once I get my second shot and your borders ease off I plan to visit and will happily tune with all my experience I have off a umik 1 for free as a gesture and if you dont like it you can simply erase it from the preset on the dsp or jump from preset to preset to compare which you like better (the Israeli tech or mine)
Thanks for the offer! Give me a PM once you are here and we can meet up.😊
 

· Registered
Joined
·
525 Posts
I have a similar set up for GB60s, GB25s, and GB10s. Just don't under power the GB60s with only 100W. The C Four is 150W x 4 @ 4 ohms. I will power mine with a Helix H400x amp bridged @ 250W X 2 @ 4 ohms. My C Four will power (2) GS62 (rear fill), (1) GB10, (1) GB25 (center channel speakers). My Brax GX 2400 amp will power (2) GB25s and (2) GB10s (front stage). My P Two amp will power (2) JL Audio 10TW3s. Helix Ultra DSP and Director for tuning and a Kenwood DNR1007XR Head Unit . It should sound good.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a similar set up for GB60s, GB25s, and GB10s. Just don't under power the GB60s with only 100W. The C Four is 150W x 4 @ 4 ohms. I will power mine with a Helix H400x amp bridged @ 250W X 2 @ 4 ohms. My C Four will power (2) GS62 (rear fill), (1) GB10, (1) GB25 (center channel speakers). My Brax GX 2400 amp will power (2) GB25s and (2) GB10s (front stage). My P Two amp will power (2) JL Audio 10TW3s. Helix Ultra DSP and Director for tuning and a Kenwood DNR1007XR Head Unit . It should sound good.
sounds great
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
I have a similar set up for GB60s, GB25s, and GB10s. Just don't under power the GB60s with only 100W. The C Four is 150W x 4 @ 4 ohms. I will power mine with a Helix H400x amp bridged @ 250W X 2 @ 4 ohms. My C Four will power (2) GS62 (rear fill), (1) GB10, (1) GB25 (center channel speakers). My Brax GX 2400 amp will power (2) GB25s and (2) GB10s (front stage). My P Two amp will power (2) JL Audio 10TW3s. Helix Ultra DSP and Director for tuning and a Kenwood DNR1007XR Head Unit . It should sound good.

you would be amazed at how much power 150rms actually is if used properly, to give you a perspective I personally did an experiment with my installer whom was insistant a few details wouldnt make a difference.

We had seperated the left side to my requests vs right side done his traditional way such as

Left:
1) proper 14 awg speaker wire run to midbasses
2) a custom speaker adapter with its rear end SLANTED / CHAMFERED as DLS suggests like in the below manual:

3) adapter positioned closer to door card (original gap was reduced from 23mm's to 8mm's
4) an open cell egg crate foam used such like in the fast ring rear end to eliminate backwaves (foam was sprayed with a German liquid protector and works wonders for over a year so far)

5) original door card grill was was huge however most holes appeared as holes but in reality were closed (fake for apperance) so additional holes were opened on the grill to allow for the speaker to work its way out of them

6) fast ring around the speaker was used to close the gap between the speaker and door card (altough pictures show the right side with it we removed it for testing purposes later on on the right side)

Right:

1) traditional insulation on inner and outer door metal aswell as on door card inner side was used for both left and right side

2) traditional mdf adapter used for right side in original speaker positioning
3) oem speaker wire was used (I believe it was as thin as 22awg on my renault)


in the end to make the experiment fair I placed the microphone identically the same (about 8 inches direct to speaker grill) on both left and right side using a imm-6 and collecting data off helix dsp rta with pinknoise (I know not best but didnt let me down either)

my findings were that the left side performed 1.5-2.5 or 2db on average better vs right side for 70-300hz area which is more or less = %66 power (rms) difference

to confirm this I balanced both sides on RTA with my dsp db settings and later on removed speakers from amp,unfiltered the settings (fullrange) played a -5db test tone at 50hz (most accurate for dmm) and measured the output which was

16.6v left side so about 69rms
21.1v right side so about 111rms

the result was almost identical to what I thought I cought on the rta being more or less a %60 difference (69 to 111)
and trust me on an efficient driver 70rms is more then enough for the average listener,150rms on a good install should work wonders

here are some photos
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
more photos of the foam I used along with how the driver sits on the custom adapter,
the spray I used is a good quality German made outdoor water repellent and works amazingly well.

I sprayed it than had it wait/dry than resprayed roughly for 5-6 days and then tested how well it protects against water and I must say this thing is space engineering level, its just wow to watch how well it performs.

as mentioned I live in an extremely humid climate and even though it has been trouble free from odour,mould and so on for over a year and the car is washed once a week everyweek.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
OK so my car FINALLY arrived, fitted it with a new exhaust (27won), PPF, and I even managed to take it to the track:
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood

Wheel Tire Sky Car Cloud

Car Cloud Sky Tire Land vehicle


Yesterday my audio installer started working on the audio system.
So far he managed to fit the tweeter in the OEM enclosure and fabricated the doors using alcantara to allow the midbass to protrude as much as possible to the cabin. Since this is first an foremost a sports car and I need the visibility I'm going to try and minimize the A pillar as much as possible hopefully without sacrificing to much audio quality. So my installer recommended the tweeters stay in the OEM location.
Automotive design Carbon Audio equipment Automotive tire Gadget



Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Vehicle door Personal luxury car

Automotive tire Wheel Hubcap Tread Automotive lighting

Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle

Grille Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top