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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I hope you'll appreciate it馃槉
This is my 3rd install since I've started Car Audio and the best one to date 馃槄

I've received my Model 3 on March 21 I was pretty happy with the sound quality. However, I wasn't able to forget the bass It that I felt when I tried a Long Range Model 3 with Premium Audio option. After searching for a while, I found Travis's build log here : Build log. I was amazed by his work and decided to do the same build with few modifications.
Here is the complete list of equipment:
  • Focal ES 165 KX3 (active)
  • NVX Boost series enclosure with Subwoofer
  • 2 x Focal FPX 2.750 (1 for the sub and the one for door woofers)
  • 1 x Focal FPX 4.800 for mids & tweeters
  • Helix DSP.3
  • Helix Conductor as remote
  • Belkin Soundform Connect for lossless streaming with Airplay
  • TPLink Nano router (needed for Belkin)
  • STP insulation material
It was a long journey but I'm really satisfied with the result I obtained. I learned so much thanks to Youtube channels like CarAudioFabrication or PSSound (if you're reading guys thanks a lot for your work 馃檹) and also Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide.

I'll share later REW measurement and crossover settings.

I'm already looking to improve this setup with the following additions:
  • Custom subwoofer enclosure on right side of trunk in order to put a Focal Utopia M SUB10WM (already bought)
  • Helix P6 DSP Ultimate (in replacement of FPX 4.800 which produces a lot of noise in mids and tweeters just by powering on the system): This way I will have 2 more channels that I can use for rear fill.
  • Replace door woofers with Focal Utopia M 8WM
  • Later Utopia M mids & tweeters

All images can be found on this Imgur album:

 

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Install looks nice. Is the sub enclosure you have the correct volume for the Focal sub? I'm wondering how far off it is from fitting and if you could just 3D print a ring/spacer to get it to fit in there correctly. You could put some design or text or logos along the edge of the ring so it would look intentional ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Install looks nice. Is the sub enclosure you have the correct volume for the Focal sub? I'm wondering how far off it is from fitting and if you could just 3D print a ring/spacer to get it to fit in there correctly. You could put some design or text or logos along the edge of the ring so it would look intentional ;)
You鈥檙e right !!! I didn鈥檛 even think about adding rings for the Focal sub. My 3D printer can print so big pieces but I鈥檒l cut some plywood rings with my router.
Thanks for the idea 馃憦
Regarding the available space in the enclosure I have no idea as it鈥檚 not mentioned on NVX鈥檚 website 馃槖
If it works I鈥檒l have another issue which is the subwoofer grill. I couldn鈥檛 find a good one that will handle subwoofer鈥檚 high excursions.
 

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Regarding the available space in the enclosure I have no idea as it鈥檚 not mentioned on NVX鈥檚 website 馃槖
you and put a garbage bag in the enclosure and fill it full of water and measure that to figure out it's volume.

there are the bar style of "grilles" for high excursion subs, but I'm not sure how well they will work in your situation.

Head Human body Auto part Street light Automotive exterior
 

Premium Member
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
Joined
164 Posts
Hey there fellow 2021 SR+ owner! If you need any pointers, I've been working on my install in my 2021 SR+ for about 1.5 years now and have lots of youtube videos up. This is my current setup:

Helix V Eight MK2 w/Helix Conductor
DAmore E1000.1 (sub amp)
AudioFrog GB10OE tweets
AudioFrog GB25 mids
AudioFrog GS25 rear deck speakers
AD W800Neo MidBass
SI SQL-12 sub in trunk well

Lots of sound deadening. Mixtures of Dynamat Extreme and RoadStage audio (not available anymore). Will be putting in Resonix CLD and Fiber mat this week. Also will be installing a custom lithium battery in the rear, as I do not like that resistor/relay mod for the tesla one bit.


Great build! There are a few other of us Tesla Model 3 folks on here doing builds too like @zacjones99 and @TonyUsa
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey there fellow 2021 SR+ owner! If you need any pointers, I've been working on my install in my 2021 SR+ for about 1.5 years now and have lots of youtube videos up. This is my current setup:

Helix V Eight MK2 w/Helix Conductor
DAmore E1000.1 (sub amp)
AudioFrog GB10OE tweets
AudioFrog GB25 mids
AudioFrog GS25 rear deck speakers
AD W800Neo MidBass
SI SQL-12 sub in trunk well

Lots of sound deadening. Mixtures of Dynamat Extreme and RoadStage audio (not available anymore). Will be putting in Resonix CLD and Fiber mat this week. Also will be installing a custom lithium battery in the rear, as I do not like that resistor/relay mod for the tesla one bit.


Great build! There are a few other of us Tesla Model 3 folks on here doing builds too like @zacjones99 and @TonyUsa
Hey thanks, I think I already watched all your videos on YouTube if you are Aaron Morris 馃榾
Your video on wiring has been extremely helpful for me. I鈥檝e also used one of these Chinese Speaker Adaptor in order to not damage original cables.
For me, the goal was to have the most discrete/OEM look possible. That鈥檚 why I鈥檝e gone with the amp rack inside the subtrunk and the prebuilt subwoofer enclosure.
 

Premium Member
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
Joined
164 Posts
Hey thanks, I think I already watched all your videos on YouTube if you are Aaron Morris 馃榾
Your video on wiring has been extremely helpful for me. I鈥檝e also used one of these Chinese Speaker Adaptor in order to not damage original cables.
For me, the goal was to have the most discrete/OEM look possible. That鈥檚 why I鈥檝e gone with the amp rack inside the subtrunk and the prebuilt subwoofer enclosure.
Yup, that's me!
I started out trying to do mostly OEM look as well. I may move my amps to where the factory sub would have gone on the right. I thought about a 10" fiberglass enclosure as well, but at the time the NVX didn't exist. Plus I really got used to the output and smoothness of that SQL-12.. it just rocks for a .8cubic foot enclosure!

Any chance I could get your STL for the conductor mount and that remote wire mount? Also, what wire are you using for the remote control wire? I'm planning on putting a lithium battery/relay in the rear and need to find a wire to tap for that.

Oh here's a video I just published on adding rear fill speakers to the SR+:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any chance I could get your STL for the conductor mount and that remote wire mount? Also, what wire are you using for the remote control wire? I'm planning on putting a lithium battery/relay in the rear and need to find a wire to tap for that.
You can find the Helix Conductor mount model here: Printables.
The wire for the remote signal is just a regular 16 AWG wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks! I meant on the remote wire where did you attach it to for 12V up front?
Sorry 馃槄, I tapped into the connector at back the of rear console.
Same location where you add an ODB connector. Like for audio output, I bought one ODB adapter then tapped into it.

I didn't take photos of it. I'll try to take some and post-it here.
 

Registered
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Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I hope you'll appreciate it馃槉
This is my 3rd install since I've started Car Audio and the best one to date 馃槄

I've received my Model 3 on March 21 I was pretty happy with the sound quality. However, I wasn't able to forget the bass It that I felt when I tried a Long Range Model 3 with Premium Audio option. After searching for a while, I found Travis's build log here : Build log. I was amazed by his work and decided to do the same build with few modifications.
Here is the complete list of equipment:
  • Focal ES 165 KX3 (active)
  • NVX Boost series enclosure with Subwoofer
  • 2 x Focal FPX 2.750 (1 for the sub and the one for door woofers)
  • 1 x Focal FPX 4.800 for mids & tweeters
  • Helix DSP.3
  • Helix Conductor as remote
  • Belkin Soundform Connect for lossless streaming with Airplay
  • TPLink Nano router (needed for Belkin)
  • STP insulation material
It was a long journey but I'm really satisfied with the result I obtained. I learned so much thanks to Youtube channels like CarAudioFabrication or PSSound (if you're reading guys thanks a lot for your work 馃檹) and also Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide.

I'll share later REW measurement and crossover settings.

I'm already looking to improve this setup with the following additions:
  • Custom subwoofer enclosure on right side of trunk in order to put a Focal Utopia M SUB10WM (already bought)
  • Helix P6 DSP Ultimate (in replacement of FPX 4.800 which produces a lot of noise in mids and tweeters just by powering on the system): This way I will have 2 more channels that I can use for rear fill.
  • Replace door woofers with Focal Utopia M 8WM
  • Later Utopia M mids & tweeters

All images can be found on this Imgur album:

May I ask what is the purpose of remote turn on switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
May I ask what is the purpose of remote turn on switch?
It's an extra security feature that I added. I wasn't sure if I was going to get a stable switched 12v (and Tesla can remap/disable some ports with OTA updates). So I've added this switch so I can easily change the configuration from automatic (12v switched automatically when I open a door and keeps it as long as there is someone on driver seat) to manual. For the moment, the switch is always set on, I've never touched it until now.
 

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It's an extra security feature that I added. I wasn't sure if I was going to get a stable switched 12v (and Tesla can remap/disable some ports with OTA updates). So I've added this switch so I can easily change the configuration from automatic (12v switched automatically when I open a door and keeps it as long as there is someone on driver seat) to manual. For the moment, the switch is always set on, I've never touched it until now.
Got it. Thank you. In the picture of your second layer of STP in sub trunk seem to be very flat. Did you use a plywood and put STP on top of the plywood? If you do, did you put any glue or something else to hold between first layer of STP and plywood?

I need to do something like that too so I can fasten the screw for the amps and etc. into the bottom of plywood in the sub trunk. I was thinking to use this strong Velcro between first layer of sound deadening and plywood then put other layer of sound deadening on top of plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RSP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got it. Thank you. In the picture of your second layer of STP in sub trunk seem to be very flat. Did you use a plywood and put STP on top of the plywood? If you do, did you put any glue or something else to hold between first layer of STP and plywood?

I need to do something like that too so I can fasten the screw for the amps and etc. into the bottom of plywood in the sub trunk. I was thinking to use this strong Velcro between first layer of sound deadening and plywood then put other layer of sound deadening on top of plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RSP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Which plywood are you referring to ? Because I haven鈥檛 use any piece of wood for this build 馃檪
 

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Hi everyone, just after a bit of advice if anyone can help. I was (casually) recommended a Kenwood KSC-PSW10ST. powered subby to install in my 2022 Tesla Model 3 RWD. Specs are 1200W max power, 350W RMS. I have bought it but not yet installed. I'm trying to work out if the power draw is too great or if it's going to kill the 12v lithium ion battery/trigger errors. Any ideas? Is there a rough RMS I should be considering when installing an aftermarket sub? Please let me know if this is the wrong thread for this sort of question :)
 

Premium Member
2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
Joined
164 Posts
Hi everyone, just after a bit of advice if anyone can help. I was (casually) recommended a Kenwood KSC-PST10W powered subby to install in my 2022 Tesla Model 3 RWD. Specs are 1200W max power, 350W RMS. I have bought it but not yet installed. I'm trying to work out if the power draw is too great or if it's going to kill the 12v lithium ion battery/trigger errors. Any ideas? Is there a rough RMS I should be considering when installing an aftermarket sub? Please let me know if this is the wrong thread for this sort of question :)
Hmm, I can't even find that online. But RMS 300W is no problem. I was running a maximum of around 1800W RMS off the front battery with no issues. I'm moving all my power to run off the DC-DC converter under the rear seat though now, just to simplify things.
 

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Hmm, I can't even find that online. But RMS 300W is no problem. I was running a maximum of around 1800W RMS off the front battery with no issues. I'm moving all my power to run off the DC-DC converter under the rear seat though now, just to simplify things.
Sorry, I meant Kenwood KSC-PSW10ST. Thanks though, that鈥檚 very handy to know. Fingers crossed it will work!
 
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