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2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+ install

2370 Views 21 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  bricked
Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I hope you'll appreciate it馃槉
This is my 3rd install since I've started Car Audio and the best one to date 馃槄

I've received my Model 3 on March 21 I was pretty happy with the sound quality. However, I wasn't able to forget the bass It that I felt when I tried a Long Range Model 3 with Premium Audio option. After searching for a while, I found Travis's build log here : Build log. I was amazed by his work and decided to do the same build with few modifications.
Here is the complete list of equipment:
  • Focal ES 165 KX3 (active)
  • NVX Boost series enclosure with Subwoofer
  • 2 x Focal FPX 2.750 (1 for the sub and the one for door woofers)
  • 1 x Focal FPX 4.800 for mids & tweeters
  • Helix DSP.3
  • Helix Conductor as remote
  • Belkin Soundform Connect for lossless streaming with Airplay
  • TPLink Nano router (needed for Belkin)
  • STP insulation material
It was a long journey but I'm really satisfied with the result I obtained. I learned so much thanks to Youtube channels like CarAudioFabrication or PSSound (if you're reading guys thanks a lot for your work 馃檹) and also Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide.

I'll share later REW measurement and crossover settings.

I'm already looking to improve this setup with the following additions:
  • Custom subwoofer enclosure on right side of trunk in order to put a Focal Utopia M SUB10WM (already bought)
  • Helix P6 DSP Ultimate (in replacement of FPX 4.800 which produces a lot of noise in mids and tweeters just by powering on the system): This way I will have 2 more channels that I can use for rear fill.
  • Replace door woofers with Focal Utopia M 8WM
  • Later Utopia M mids & tweeters

All images can be found on this Imgur album:

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Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I hope you'll appreciate it馃槉
This is my 3rd install since I've started Car Audio and the best one to date 馃槄

I've received my Model 3 on March 21 I was pretty happy with the sound quality. However, I wasn't able to forget the bass It that I felt when I tried a Long Range Model 3 with Premium Audio option. After searching for a while, I found Travis's build log here : Build log. I was amazed by his work and decided to do the same build with few modifications.
Here is the complete list of equipment:
  • Focal ES 165 KX3 (active)
  • NVX Boost series enclosure with Subwoofer
  • 2 x Focal FPX 2.750 (1 for the sub and the one for door woofers)
  • 1 x Focal FPX 4.800 for mids & tweeters
  • Helix DSP.3
  • Helix Conductor as remote
  • Belkin Soundform Connect for lossless streaming with Airplay
  • TPLink Nano router (needed for Belkin)
  • STP insulation material
It was a long journey but I'm really satisfied with the result I obtained. I learned so much thanks to Youtube channels like CarAudioFabrication or PSSound (if you're reading guys thanks a lot for your work 馃檹) and also Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide.

I'll share later REW measurement and crossover settings.

I'm already looking to improve this setup with the following additions:
  • Custom subwoofer enclosure on right side of trunk in order to put a Focal Utopia M SUB10WM (already bought)
  • Helix P6 DSP Ultimate (in replacement of FPX 4.800 which produces a lot of noise in mids and tweeters just by powering on the system): This way I will have 2 more channels that I can use for rear fill.
  • Replace door woofers with Focal Utopia M 8WM
  • Later Utopia M mids & tweeters

All images can be found on this Imgur album:

May I ask what is the purpose of remote turn on switch?
It's an extra security feature that I added. I wasn't sure if I was going to get a stable switched 12v (and Tesla can remap/disable some ports with OTA updates). So I've added this switch so I can easily change the configuration from automatic (12v switched automatically when I open a door and keeps it as long as there is someone on driver seat) to manual. For the moment, the switch is always set on, I've never touched it until now.
Got it. Thank you. In the picture of your second layer of STP in sub trunk seem to be very flat. Did you use a plywood and put STP on top of the plywood? If you do, did you put any glue or something else to hold between first layer of STP and plywood?

I need to do something like that too so I can fasten the screw for the amps and etc. into the bottom of plywood in the sub trunk. I was thinking to use this strong Velcro between first layer of sound deadening and plywood then put other layer of sound deadening on top of plywood.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RSP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Which plywood are you referring to ? Because I haven鈥檛 use any piece of wood for this build 馃檪
OK. In your second layer of STP in the sub trunk picture at the bottom seem to be flat so I though you put some plywood in it.
Hi everyone,

This is my first post in this forum, I hope you'll appreciate it馃槉
This is my 3rd install since I've started Car Audio and the best one to date 馃槄

I've received my Model 3 on March 21 I was pretty happy with the sound quality. However, I wasn't able to forget the bass It that I felt when I tried a Long Range Model 3 with Premium Audio option. After searching for a while, I found Travis's build log here : Build log. I was amazed by his work and decided to do the same build with few modifications.
Here is the complete list of equipment:
  • Focal ES 165 KX3 (active)
  • NVX Boost series enclosure with Subwoofer
  • 2 x Focal FPX 2.750 (1 for the sub and the one for door woofers)
  • 1 x Focal FPX 4.800 for mids & tweeters
  • Helix DSP.3
  • Helix Conductor as remote
  • Belkin Soundform Connect for lossless streaming with Airplay
  • TPLink Nano router (needed for Belkin)
  • STP insulation material
It was a long journey but I'm really satisfied with the result I obtained. I learned so much thanks to Youtube channels like CarAudioFabrication or PSSound (if you're reading guys thanks a lot for your work 馃檹) and also Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide.

I'll share later REW measurement and crossover settings.

I'm already looking to improve this setup with the following additions:
  • Custom subwoofer enclosure on right side of trunk in order to put a Focal Utopia M SUB10WM (already bought)
  • Helix P6 DSP Ultimate (in replacement of FPX 4.800 which produces a lot of noise in mids and tweeters just by powering on the system): This way I will have 2 more channels that I can use for rear fill.
  • Replace door woofers with Focal Utopia M 8WM
  • Later Utopia M mids & tweeters

All images can be found on this Imgur album:

When you get the high level output signal from the head unit that will go into the DSP high level input, what method did you used or how did you find which wires are midbass and midrange that came out from head unit? On the other word, how did you find those wires?
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