Roger that! I think one of those or something similar is one of the the integration parts that I can't remember. I'll update it when I know.
Roger that! I think one of those or something similar is one of the the integration parts that I can't remember. I'll update it when I know.You’re going to need a way to grab signal from the factory HU and send it to the V12. I’m not sure is the PacAmp Pro AP4 CH-41 will work with a 2022 Charger…check Crutchfield. If so, get the toslink adapter and you’re set.
If the AP4 doesn’t work, something like a JL Fix 86 or 82 would work.
We discussed that and it will be so.I'd also add a Bluetooth module for that V12. 😃
I'm embarrassed to say that he mentioned that I'll need a XXXX for a pure/flat signal. I remember it was around $500 but can't for the life of me remember what it was called. I'll find out.Someone smarter than me can use the input eq to compensate. I have no clue, maybe the ACO can help in this situation. Just trying to keep OP from overbuying equipment.
Yeah, I was advised that an epicenter would be necessary when I was just adding an amp and sub.Lol yea I know what you mean. 🤣 my installer was crazy surprised when I said I didn't want an Epicenter. He said...
"pero sin el Epicenter no vas a tener bass guey"
it's crazy how much bass you can get out of a trumpet with the Epicenter.
I understood that it needed one in that scenario to compensate for the factory amp eq'ing the lows. But now that the factory amp is coming out and full integration is taking place, it's not necessary. Did I misunderstand that?Guess I got some Epicenter research to do now.
I do believe it's similar. The epicenter is not necessary now that I'm doing a complete system. Only when I planned to add a sub to the existing factory HK system. Sounds to me like the epicenter just takes some low frequencies and lowers them X number of octaves so that lower range mid bass becomes sub bass. (sorry, that's the best my pea brain can explain lol)Does an Epicenter do something more than your V12 already does?
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I appreciate the encouragement and confirmation on the equipment. It's been a long time since I've been this excited about something.Subbed. Great set of gear and game plan. Excited to see the execution.
I firmly believe both the BLAM Signature and Live lines are the top contenders in their price points.
and we know all know how I feel about Helix - the V12 is a super tool
Not by the fourth, maybe I can make the next one though. Yes Sir, she'll be all tuned up.Nice gear! Will you have it installed by the time of the Austin get together? I would also budget in a good professional tune to get it to sound it’s greatest.
Roger on all! Makes perfect sense.Generally if you have room to fit a 6x9 you can fit an 8". As someone who had the Signature 8" midbass, it's a monster for the price and I am not sure I could blind test tell the difference between that and my 8WM. The 8WM is a bit more accurate but that's about it.
There is no replacement for displacement aka cone area will always help. It will be well worth a couple hours of fab time to fit 8s.
Audiomobile Evos seem to be the hot brand of subs and seem to perform well from what I have read. They seem to perform above the price but reliability and reputation take some time to mature and saturate in the market.
As for front sub - it depends on how your trunk can vent into your cabin - if you can get enough air into the main cabin for your trunk, it should help gain you top end response on the subs and hopefully reach up to your midbass aka another case installing 8s that can gain you another 10-15 hz in lower end output.
I don't want to lead you on to a front sub without seeing measurements of what the system could do without one. If anyone else with the same vehicle could comment with measurements, that would be useful. In most sedans that can't vent too well to the cabin above 50-60hz - a front sub usually is the answer.
You can always Y split one of the RCA pre outs of the V12 to run the rear subs and the other to run a front sub in the future.
Do you have a ski hatch or existing speakers in the rear deck?
Man my mind keeps coming back around to this comment.The vxi amps look great and no slouches based on size to performance ratio. I think you’ll be quite happy. Although I’d be tempted for a P-Six Ultimate, P-Two, P-One combo. That’s a deadly trio imo
Roger that! Thank you.Depending on how you want your centre and rears. I run a 2way centre but others just run 1ch. Then there's rear fill, some run 2ch others run 1 then flip polarity at the speaker.
I'd P6 to mids, tweeters, either center or rears or both depending on how you want to do it. But if you run a 2way centre or stereo rear fill you'll need an other amp. Then run optical to the P2 to the midbasses. Then Preamp to P1 for subs.
P6, M4, P2
P6 to mids, tweeters, 2ohm midbasses. M4 preamp outs to 2way centre, stereo rears. Optical out to P2 to 2ohm subs. But is use a P1 over a P2 for subwoofers.
Roger that. My understanding is that we can use boost them to 120-160w each at 2ohm. I'm guessing that range is based on having channels diverting unused power if channels are open.I vaguely remember reading that (skizer) Nick would use a V12 when the situation called for it, especially in regards to inputs and integration and not so much outputs. If summing off the factory with bluetooth and navigation requires plus added inputs from an external DAP then those inputs would be required. I've also heard Matt Schaffer on his podcast speak about the V12 and V8 making 75 watts per channel with all channels driven. This number goes up when all channels are not used. For instance using a V12 for 8 channel output. At least that was my limited understanding of how it worked. I could be totally messing that up. That was quoted direct from training at MSC.
Yeah man. He's been great about being patient with all my silly new guy questions. Really looking forward to working with them. Kind of nervous in an odd way, like meeting celebrities for the first time.Jeffery will take good care of you over at MTI.