[eltigre]

Do you think it would be difficult to get an 8" BLAM mid driver in my doors? It currently has 150mm x 230mm (6x9's) in the stock locations. Do you all think that it would be much more fabing adapting those holes for 8" vs 6.5" drivers? Also, do you feel that 8" would be worth it over the 6.5"s considering the door is less than a perfect place for either?

What are your opinions about audiomobile evo's? I know they are a fairly budget friendly option that seems to perform decent from what little I can find about them. Debating on pushing the budget up in that area as well. lmao

Last query for now, thank you for your patience. Would you all plan a front sub for this as well?

 

[RickWilson]

Do you think it would be difficult to get an 8" BLAM mid driver in my doors? It currently has 150mm x 230mm (6x9's) in the stock locations. Do you all think that it would be much more fabing than adapting those holes for 8" vs 6.5" drivers? Also, do you feel that 8" would be worth it over the 6.5"s?

What do you think about audiomobile evo's? I know they are a fairly budget friendly option that seems to perform decent from what little I can find about them. Debating on pushing the budget up in that area as well. lmao

Last query for now, thank you for your patience. Would you all plan a front sub for this as well?

Generally if you have room to fit a 6x9 you can fit an 8". As someone who had the Signature 8" midbass, it's a monster for the price and I am not sure I could blind test tell the difference between that and my 8WM. The 8WM is a bit more accurate but that's about it.

There is no replacement for displacement aka cone area will always help. It will be well worth a couple hours of fab time to fit 8s.

Audiomobile Evos seem to be the hot brand of subs and seem to perform well from what I have read. They seem to perform above the price but reliability and reputation take some time to mature and saturate in the market.

As for front sub - it depends on how your trunk can vent into your cabin - if you can get enough air into the main cabin for your trunk, it should help gain you top end response on the subs and hopefully reach up to your midbass aka another case installing 8s that can gain you another 10-15 hz in lower end output.

I don't want to lead you on to a front sub without seeing measurements of what the system could do without one. If anyone else with the same vehicle could comment with measurements, that would be useful. In most sedans that can't vent too well to the cabin above 50-60hz - a front sub usually is the answer.

You can always Y split one of the RCA pre outs of the V12 to run the rear subs and the other to run a front sub in the future.

Do you have a ski hatch or existing speakers in the rear deck?

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

2017 Dodge Charger - Full SQ Upgrade - Audiofrog, Stereo...

Awesome! May I make a few inquiries? Assuming you are still running the 15". Would you do anything different on the sub/subs, hindsight 20/20 and all? Have you found the loss of trunk space to be an annoyance? Have you been fighting rattles any at this point or has the Charger held up? I have...

www.diymobileaudio.com

He put a front sub into his charger due to lack of upper bass response. Most sedans will have this issue. Mine falls flat after 50hz even with a front sub it barely makes the cut. But to be fair the lil 8" sub is trying to keep up with 2 SQLs on 4k 😃

 

[eltigre]

Generally if you have room to fit a 6x9 you can fit an 8". As someone who had the Signature 8" midbass, it's a monster for the price and I am not sure I could blind test tell the difference between that and my 8WM. The 8WM is a bit more accurate but that's about it.

There is no replacement for displacement aka cone area will always help. It will be well worth a couple hours of fab time to fit 8s.

Audiomobile Evos seem to be the hot brand of subs and seem to perform well from what I have read. They seem to perform above the price but reliability and reputation take some time to mature and saturate in the market.

As for front sub - it depends on how your trunk can vent into your cabin - if you can get enough air into the main cabin for your trunk, it should help gain you top end response on the subs and hopefully reach up to your midbass aka another case installing 8s that can gain you another 10-15 hz in lower end output.

I don't want to lead you on to a front sub without seeing measurements of what the system could do without one. If anyone else with the same vehicle could comment with measurements, that would be useful. In most sedans that can't vent too well to the cabin above 50-60hz - a front sub usually is the answer.

You can always Y split one of the RCA pre outs of the V12 to run the rear subs and the other to run a front sub in the future.

Do you have a ski hatch or existing speakers in the rear deck?

Roger on all! Makes perfect sense.

No ski pass but the rear parcel deck should have several holes in it. One 10" and two 4" holes from the HK sub and two speakers.

 

[eltigre]

The vxi amps look great and no slouches based on size to performance ratio. I think you’ll be quite happy. Although I’d be tempted for a P-Six Ultimate, P-Two, P-One combo. That’s a deadly trio imo

Man my mind keeps coming back around to this comment.

How would you lay that out with rear fill and a center channel? P two to the WS8 Multix mid bass. P six ultimate to the tweets, MS3 mids, rear fill and P one to some 2ohm subs? Can you then do something with a virtual channel for the center? Or would this arrangement be better for drivers that are rated for more juice?

Or would I need a P6, M4, P2 arrangement?

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Depending on how you want your centre and rears. I run a 2way centre but others just run 1ch. Then there's rear fill, some run 2ch others run 1 then flip polarity at the speaker.

I'd P6 to mids, tweeters, either center or rears or both depending on how you want to do it. But if you run a 2way centre or stereo rear fill you'll need an other amp. Then run optical to the P2 to the midbasses. Then Preamp to P1 for subs.

P6, M4, P2

P6 to mids, tweeters, 2ohm midbasses. M4 preamp outs to 2way centre, stereo rears. Optical out to P2 to 2ohm subs. But I'd use a P1 over a P2 for subwoofers.

 

[eltigre]

Also, I'd like to make a request t

Depending on how you want your centre and rears. I run a 2way centre but others just run 1ch. Then there's rear fill, some run 2ch others run 1 then flip polarity at the speaker.

I'd P6 to mids, tweeters, either center or rears or both depending on how you want to do it. But if you run a 2way centre or stereo rear fill you'll need an other amp. Then run optical to the P2 to the midbasses. Then Preamp to P1 for subs.

P6, M4, P2

P6 to mids, tweeters, 2ohm midbasses. M4 preamp outs to 2way centre, stereo rears. Optical out to P2 to 2ohm subs. But is use a P1 over a P2 for subwoofers.

Roger that! Thank you.

I know you are nice and comfy with big power. Would you even consider running either three amp combo vs the V12 and P2 with these speaker specs? Would you expect it to perform significantly better with the extra power or would the headroom make it worth considering? Seems like overkill to me but I'd prefer that you underkill. lol

Multix WS8 • Max power 250 W / Nominal power 125 W
Multix MS3 - Maximal power: 100 W / Nominal power: 25 W
Multix TSM25Mg 45 HR - Maximal 100W / Nominal: 15 W

Also would the three amp combo possibly push me into having to do electrical upgrades where the V12 and P2 don't? 220 watt alternator and an Odyssey high performance battery. The 12V tech says the V12 and P2 will be supported as is.

I'd like to see @slowride s thought on this as well.

 

[ItsonlyaHONDA]

Also, I'd like to make a request t


Roger that! Thank you.

I know you are nice and comfy with big power. Would you even consider running either three amp combo vs the V12 and P2 with these speaker specs? Would you expect it to perform significantly better with the extra power or would the headroom make it worth considering? Seems like overkill to me but I'd prefer that you underkill. lol

Multix WS8 • Max power 250 W / Nominal power 125 W
Multix MS3 - Maximal power: 100 W / Nominal power: 25 W
Multix TSM25Mg 45 HR - Maximal 100W / Nominal: 15 W

Also would the three amp combo possibly push me into having to do electrical upgrades where the V12 and P2 don't? 220 watt alternator and an Odyssey high performance battery. The 12V tech says the V12 and P2 will be supported as is.

I'd like to see @slowride s thought on this as well.

That will work. Especially since your midbass is a 2 ohm you could run it off of the V . But now I'd say the v12 will be overkill if your just doing a 3way. You could get away with a V8 and still do mono rear and centre.

 

[slowride]

Man my mind keeps coming back around to this comment.

How would you lay that out with rear fill and a center channel? P two to the WS8 Multix mid bass. P six ultimate to the tweets, MS3 mids, rear fill and P one to some 2ohm subs? Can you then do something with a virtual channel for the center? Or would this arrangement be better for drivers that are rated for more juice?

Or would I need a P6, M4, P2 arrangement?

The P Six Ultimate has a 12 channel dsp. I only used 9 of them in my example. You could change that up to your needs. But I personally love the design of the P series amps. Even as rebuild my current rack for 4 Mosconi Pros, an Atomo 2 and Helix Ultra, I can't help but wish I tried this particular combo from Helix. Less components to mount and find space for; all the same output more or less.

 

[slowride]

I vaguely remember reading that (skizer) Nick would use a V12 when the situation called for it, especially in regards to inputs and integration and not so much outputs. If summing off the factory with bluetooth and navigation requires plus added inputs from an external DAP then those inputs would be required. I've also heard Matt Schaffer on his podcast speak about the V12 and V8 making 75 watts per channel with all channels driven. This number goes up when all channels are not used. For instance using a V12 for 8 channel output. At least that was my limited understanding of how it worked. I could be totally messing that up. That was quoted direct from training at MSC.

 

[eltigre]

I vaguely remember reading that (skizer) Nick would use a V12 when the situation called for it, especially in regards to inputs and integration and not so much outputs. If summing off the factory with bluetooth and navigation requires plus added inputs from an external DAP then those inputs would be required. I've also heard Matt Schaffer on his podcast speak about the V12 and V8 making 75 watts per channel with all channels driven. This number goes up when all channels are not used. For instance using a V12 for 8 channel output. At least that was my limited understanding of how it worked. I could be totally messing that up. That was quoted direct from training at MSC.

Roger that. My understanding is that we can use boost them to 120-160w each at 2ohm. I'm guessing that range is based on having channels diverting unused power if channels are open.

I appreciate the feed back. I'm going to leave the plan as it stands wit the V12 and P2 for now.

 

[eltigre]

It's almost the big day. Supposed to surrender the car Friday.

I know this is a personal preference thing but I'd love to hear some opinions. Tweets are going in the a pillars and dodge uses some strange material on them.

We use a really good upholstery guy at work. He said that he would wrap the pillars in gator, ostrich, shark, snake, suede, leather, alantra or whatever. It would be black, same as now.

Anybody had or checked out pillars wrapped in anything exotic? Or what do you think about the idea?

I'm not trying to be a pimp or anything lol. Just a little different.

WWSD? (what would SkizeR do?) lol