2022 Ford Explorer ST - Helix, Mosconi, Morel, Audiofrog

23203 Views 242 Replies 27 Participants Last post by BobTheBirdTurd, 4 d ago

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago (Edited)

2

I finally started really getting the installation started this week. I've been acquiring, designing, and building odds and ends for the past few months. I also picked up a new hobby learning to use Fusion360 and 3D print my own parts. Without further adieu, here is the component list.

OEM Interface: NavTV Zen A2B
DSP: Helix DSP Pro Mk3 w/ HEC BT HD module and Director
AMP1: Mosconi Pro 4|10 (Tweeters, Mid Range)
AMP2: Mosconi Pro 4|10 (Mid Bass, Rear 6.5)
AMP3: Mosconi Pro 1|10 (Subwoofer)
Tweeters: Morel Supremo Piccolo Lotus
Mid Range: Morel Elate Carbon MM3
Mid Bass: Morel Elate Carbon MW9
Rear: Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 602 Mk2 6.5"
Subwoofer: Raven 12XL
Wiring: Blue/Clear Stinger HPM Series
Interconnects: Stinger 8000 Series, StingerX Tos-Link
Sound Treatment: ResoNix CLD, ResoNix CCF, ResoNix Fibermat, Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro, BlackHole Tiles

Car Wheel Land vehicle Tire Vehicle

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RickWilson

· #2 · 6 mo ago

Man - this is truly a fantastic composition of gear. Going to be a killer, killer build.

Almost exactly what I’d spec out for myself if I did it all over again. The Raven is in my Top 3 for pieces of gear I’m curious to try alongside 3.5WM and the Morel Ultimo subs.

Next build I truly hope to integrate a Raven into it. How much air are you looking to give yours?

very much looking forward to seeing this one come together.

UNBROKEN

· #3 · 6 mo ago

I’ll be curious to hear your thoughts on the single 12XL. A single C12XL just wasn’t cutting it for me so I wound up with a pair.
I really wanna try a pair of 12XL’s but I gotta get through this winter project first.

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BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #4 · 6 mo ago

Yea, I'm pretty stoked as this will be by far the best system I have put in one of my vehicles. I have been off all week, but didn't get as much done as I wanted due to it raining almost every day. I wanted to get the CLD applied to the doors, the amp rack mounting locations secured, and rack layout done. I wanted to have continued access to the spare tire, to I had to get a little creative with the amp rack mounting locations, but I got it figured out and got the tub around the spare tire deadened.

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #5 · 6 mo ago

UNBROKEN said:
I’ll be curious to hear your thoughts on the single 12XL. A single C12XL just wasn’t cutting it for me so I wound up with a pair.

I'm not sure if it will suffice for me either, luckily the box my IDMax is in just happens to be the size I need for the Raven. The plan is to see if a single sub will do or if I will need to add a second one and add a second Pro 1|10. If I'm unsatisfied, my entire layout is going to change. I'll have to lose the spare and go your route.

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #6 · 6 mo ago

Tub has had Resonix CLD applied. It's not the best looking job, but it will work. Ill get the area under the trim when I'm ready to start running wire.

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slowride

· #7 · 6 mo ago

Great list of gear. This build will truly come down to install. I also want to try dual raven 12s. but my budget sounds like frogs right now. Interested on your thoughts once built out

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #8 · 6 mo ago

Mounting locations for the amp rack. I used some factory mounting holes to mount some 1/2" aluminum angle that will get 4" magnets so secure the rear of the amp rack. for the sides, I 3D printed some pretty thick brackets out of ASA, and for the center, I used a tall nut (I forget what it's actually called) and attached a 3D printed support that the center of the amp rack will be bolted to. The center support is made out of carbon fiber infused poly-carbonate. It's very stiff and has zero flex unlike the ASA where I wanted a little bit of flex. To remove the amp rack, I will simply remove the side 6mm bolts, the center 10mm bolt, and slide it back an inch to release the magnets; I can then simply lift the entire rack out of the way to remove the spare.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

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BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #9 · 6 mo ago

7

Once I got the 1/2" HDPE sheet cut, I started looking at layout of gear. My original vision of a 2 tier design to hide all the wires, but still make it accessible went into the toilet. So I looked for a layout that allows for easy accessibility and installation, but also still look nice.

Once I got a couple different options, I felt that option A and B would probably be the easiest for wire routing, but I don't thing I would be happy looking at my gear from the side, so I went with a variation of option B. Once I started working through the power wire routing, I found that there wasn't enough room to run all 6 4g wires around the right 1|10 amp, so I decided to build 11mm risers and run them under the amps. Signal cables will run around the left or under the amps also, I just have to figure out how to take up the excess cable.

Font Gas Tints and shades Eyelash Rectangle

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive tail & brake light Motor vehicle Bumper

Automotive tail & brake light Grille Automotive lighting Automotive parking light Automotive tire

Rectangle Grille Wall Gas Font

Final layout.

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Font Audio equipment

Prototype risers being printed.

Circuit component Automotive lighting Automotive tire Cable Electronic engineering

Finally, the HDPE looks like a sack of

, so it's going to get wrapped with Matt Black Vinyl. I've never done a wrap, so we'll see how it goes tomorrow. Then I can get the heat-set inserts installed in all the holes and start wiring everything.

Blue Office supplies Electric blue Automotive exterior Composite material

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BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #10 · 6 mo ago

slowride said:
Great list of gear. This build will truly come down to install. I also want to try dual raven 12s. but my budget sounds like frogs right now. Interested on your thoughts once built out

That's the idea, if it doesn't sound good, then clearly I did a

install. I'm not looking forward to installing all the Luxury Liner Pro, that will be a Christmas break job as I will be off work for 2 weeks.

slowride

· #11 · 6 mo ago

Luxury liner pro sucks to work with. I really wish the resonix barrier was around when I first started my build. I know it’s pricy af but looks way easier to use.

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #12 · 6 mo ago

It was on back order and I wasn't really interested in paying 3 times as much. It did look to be much easier to work with and was probably worth it. Had it been available, I probably would have just bit the bullet, cried about it for a minute, and then got over it. I'll probably regret my choice later, especially after I saw how thick and stiff the LLP was.

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Turb0Yoda

· #13 · 6 mo ago

Yeah. I got LLP in my car, and I stopped at the front 2 doors because of how much of a PITA it was to work with hah.

let’s see what you do with that printer of yours

BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #14 · 6 mo ago

So far, I have all my adapters printed. The most complicated thing I have been working on is a mount for the director. Think of it like a cup phone, but it will fit in this goofy spot designed for a small phone. I have the mount built, but I haven't created the part that actually goes in the location that the mount bolts on to.

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BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #15 · 6 mo ago

2

Here is a rendering and an actual print of the Director mount I am working on. In the background of the pic, you can also see the center support for the amp rack that mounts to the existing spare tire support.

Machine Composite material Metal Gadget

Tool Machine Wood Power tool Composite material

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saltyone

· #16 · 6 mo ago

I may be interested in buying one of those mounts, after I see it in the vehicle. Looks cool!

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BobTheBirdTurd

Discussion Starter · #17 · 6 mo ago

I designed it so that the mounting base can be what ever shape the end user needs it to be. I'm sure I'll still have to make some adjustments, but I think I got it really close. I may have to adjust the height depending on if I recess the base or make it flush with the console.

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saltyone

· #18 · 6 mo ago

Very nice!

winkychevelle

· #19 · 6 mo ago

BobTheBirdTurd said:
I designed it so that the mounting base can be what ever shape the end user needs it to be. I'm sure I'll still have to make some adjustments, but I think I got it really close. I may have to adjust the height depending on if I recess the base or make it flush with the console.

You may want to consider adding star washers to the inside of the tongue/groove pivot points. This would lock down both sides much more tightly without relying on friction only. Allowing for a stiff pivot point once tightened

Reactions: 1

optimaprime

· #20 · 6 mo ago

BobTheBirdTurd said:
Mounting locations for the amp rack. I used some factory mounting holes to mount some 1/2" aluminum angle that will get 4" magnets so secure the rear of the amp rack. for the sides, I 3D printed some pretty thick brackets out of ASA, and for the center, I used a tall nut (I forget what it's actually called) and attached a 3D printed support that the center of the amp rack will be bolted to. The center support is made out of carbon fiber infused poly-carbonate. It's very stiff and has zero flex unlike the ASA where I wanted a little bit of flex. To remove the amp rack, I will simply remove the side 6mm bolts, the center 10mm bolt, and slide it back an inch to release the magnets; I can then simply lift the entire rack out of the way to remove the spare.

View attachment 355670

What brand of ASa you using ? I have futru asax and I haven’t found way to make it print and not be so brittle.

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