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I honestly never tried to run mine at 400hz x-overs (mainly since CDT recommend 500hz x-overs). However, I did help another member tune his as well and he had them crossed over at 400hz acoustically - and he was VERY happy with the results.

Honestly, I doubt that it makes that much difference between 400hz and 500hz. I would just use 500hz to be safe.

I've never heard any bit of distortion from the Unitys - regardless of volume level. But then again, I don't listen at 100dB either - and never will. I love loud music, but my system honestly gets louder than I can use - with only 6x75W RMS + sub amps. I truly don't understand the need for tons of power - unless you are concerned with what people OUTSIDE the car hear. My windows are ALWAYS up and I just want music loud enough for ME in my car - and it easily handles that!

Time alignment was straight forward (distance measurements) - except for the two subs (one underseat and one trunk sub). I had to get "creative" with the timing to get both subs and the midbass to all play nice together - but it works well when done.
 

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Jtorky
The reason I want to use a lower xover is for imaging…
you can tell the difference from 500, down to 400.
I wanted something that plays down to 300, so I can use less T/A .
if I run my midbass mono from say 80-300, & sub 80 on down.
This is will keep everything on the dash, hopefully, with a wide stage.
my car is a 2006 Scion Tc.
Im trying to keep this system as simple as posible.
I may try those unity 7.5 & see how they sound.
 

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Yeah, in my beater w/ a heater, and no A/C, with windows down, I tend to turn it down when I come to a stop because it's entirely too loud for my liking. Funny how that works...
Sorry - wasn't specifically referring to you in regards to the "I don't understand why people need so much power" comment.

Like I said, I love loud music (and nobody else in my family can take it that loud!) - but my system gets louder than I can even use - with only 75W/channel. I just see people with thousands of watts and wonder how they can possibly use that much - unless trying to make the system loud for people outside the car.

Jtorky
The reason I want to use a lower xover is for imaging…
you can tell the difference from 500, down to 400.
I wanted something that plays down to 300, so I can use less T/A .
if I run my midbass mono from say 80-300, & sub 80 on down.
This is will keep everything on the dash, hopefully, with a wide stage.
my car is a 2006 Scion Tc.
Im trying to keep this system as simple as posible.
I may try those unity 7.5 & see how they sound.
The Unity 7.5 really isn't going to fare much better than the Unity 8 in terms of x-overs.

I'd be willing to bet some $$ that you can't even tell the difference between 400hz and 500hz x-overs. I tried both with other speakers and it really makes little difference. You're talking about a 100hz difference when the spectrum is 20khz+.

If you are looking for the best sound quality, the Unity 8 is where it's at.

From the CDT owner when I asked about the differences between the 7.5 and 8:


"The customer with a trained musical ear always chose the Uity8.0’s for its flat response and extended frequency range way beyond 20kHz. Customers building loud sound systems often chose the Unity7.5"...

Regarding TA, I'm not sure what the wideband highpass filter value has to do with time alignment? For the most part time alignment is distance-based - nothing to do with speaker xover points.

Unless you simply want the loudest system possible, ignoring all else - then I would go with the Unity 8.

Personally, I don't feel that a 2" speaker is the best choice to play below 500hz...
 

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Thanks for the response back.
I wish CDT made a 3inch Fullrange driver…
im looking at maybe [email protected] with a 3inch might be better for me.

yes I can tell the difference between 500 & 400 with different slopes.
I’m not looking to be loud, just playing with stage height more of.
I know what T/A does, just trying to not use any T/A on this project car.
 

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Hey - if you want 3", there are some Hybrid Audio X3 widebands in the classifieds...

Keep in mind though - you'll get better highs with a 2" than you will with a 3"...

I'm sure you can run the unity 8s at 400hz (like I said, my buddy did and they were fine). Personally, I'd rather use 500hz and be "safer" - especially since in my experience the diff between 400hz and 500hz is so minor when we're talking about midbass/wideband setup. With a wideband, the vast majority of the sound is already up high (unlike a midbass/tweeter setup).

For the price of the unity 8s, I would just but them and try 400hz - I'm sure you'll be fine unless you listen at outrageous volume levels. They are dirt cheap for what you get.
 

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What midbass driver pairs well with either th 7.5 or 8.0?
What size speaker do you need? I've been VERY happy with my full-depth CDT 6x9s. They pair very well with my Unity 8 - and are just as good as the much more expensive AudioFrog 6x9s (I also have a set of those, yet stay with the CDTs).

I'm talking about the CDT CL-69SubCF or the HD-690CF. They are available in both 2-ohm and 4-ohm - and unlike the CDT "slim" 6x9s, the full depth versions are actually 2-ohm.

No personal experience with any of the 6.5" midbass.

You can always shoot CDT support an email and ask them what they'd recommend - just be sure to give them the amp wattages, etc.
 

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Problemhouston
it all depends on if you can fit an 6.5, 7,8 or 6x9
you can look at raw drivers from parts express or Madisound, or even those SI mids, AudioFrog, Morel, Focal, so many choices.
CDT does make so many types of midbass driver, to many to choose from, but I’ve owned the ES line which are built like a tank, high distortion, but great warranty.

jtorky,
yeah I think just get those untiy 8 , just play around with them.
but im going order some markaudio drivers as well.
 

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I’m just going to throw this out since I run a similar setup maybe another option for others.
Currently running 8” Blam midbass (2ohm) with 2” widebands (no rear fill) running off a Helix H400x for the front stage. Another H400x on the sub with Helix DSP.
I tried out some Unity 8’s and BLAM LFR50’s they look damn near identical if you flip them over but they are different sounding.
Went with the BLAM seemed take more power and played lower before starting to break up in the lower midrange.
The more on axis you can keep most widebands better off you will be.
The LFR50’s say 250z on a 12db slope minimum on spec sheet, they were not happy as mentioned above that is a lot to ask out of a 2” speaker.
Seemed better at 350hz but they really come to life at 600hz plus on 70 watts per channel, actually using 20-30 watts I would guess.
Motor vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Automotive exterior

Probably could use a tweeter for 6k plus if I was chasing every point on a scoresheet.
But seriously 90% of men are lucky to even hear anything past 12.5k anyway so I’m good.
 

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I am looking at using the 7.5 or 8 across the dash of my 2022 Ram TRX. Possibly custom build a pillars or all factory locations. I believe that the doors have 6x9 from the factory so a 6x9 or 6.5 replacement should fit. With the Unity drivers coming down so low I am looking for something that will play well up to the Unity driver but also give me good midbass output.
 

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I am looking at using the 7.5 or 8 across the dash of my 2022 Ram TRX. Possibly custom build a pillars or all factory locations. I believe that the doors have 6x9 from the factory so a 6x9 or 6.5 replacement should fit. With the Unity drivers coming down so low I am looking for something that will play well up to the Unity driver but also give me good midbass output.
Like I mentioned above, the CDT 6x9s work wonderfully with the Unity 8s - and they are crazy-inexpensive (you can get them for like $110/pair. I use the 2-ohm versions with my 75W/channel amp - and they don't disappoint. Midbass for days...

I'd recommend either the CL-69SubCF or the HD-690CF. CDT has 3 general "series" of speakers:

CL
HD
ES

Even though the ES line is their top-of-the-line series, I found issues with them due to the weights they put on the dust caps to lower the FS. I had some odd "rattle" sounds with pink noise with those weighted dust caps, so I avoid them.

Honestly, I think the CL 6x9s are damn good - not sure if it's worth the extra $$ for the higher series.

I've tried a lot of CDT 6x9s:



They are so inexpensive, it really doesn't make sense for me to sell them - by the time we pay for shipping, you might as well just buy new from CDT...

So they sit in my closet collecting dust...
 
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