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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello folks,

It's been a long time since I started my long, drawn-out v1 build log, and a lot has happened since then, so I thought I'd share my latest build, in a new, more concise post.

Vehicle: '21 2dr Jeep Wrangler (JL) Rubicon, with Premium Sunrider soft-top, without Alpine stereo

Major Parts:
Head Unit: Stinger Heigh10 + PAC Audio Dash Kit
DSP 1: MiniDSP Flex (Dirac Live)
DSP 2: MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (Dirac Live)
Speaker Amp: MMATS HiFi-6150d (150x6 @ 4 ohms)
Sub Amp: MMATS M2000.2 (2000x1 @ 2 ohms)
Tweeters: Audison Thesis TH 1.5 II Violino
Mids: Audison Thesis TH 3.0 II Voce
Mid-bass: Hertz Mille Legend ML 1800.3
Subs: 2x Stereo Integrity SQL-12 D2

Wiring diagram below:
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Pictures of my rig (exterior):

It's a Sarge Green Wrangler Rubicon with Mopar steel front/rear bumpers + satin black grill. I removed all the red accents and replaced with matte black. The wonderful folks at Exotic Vehicle Wraps put a Satin (but clear) paint protection film over my car; so the green that you see is my OEM paint, but covered in a satin clear film. The result is a matte green look, that is really easy to keep clean.

Also, had the beadlock rings finished in Sarge Green plus satin clearcoat; same on the (formerly red) front and rear tow hooks

Other minor items: WARN bull bar + Diode Dynamics clear sidemarkers and SS4 LED fog lights.

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I'm in for this. I got to hear V1 at NCSQ. It sounded amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Pictures of my rig (interior):

This was actually a whole a$$ project. I removed my OEM front seats, stripped them down, and relocated all the wire harnesses and heating pads onto these aftermarket Corbeau Trailcat seats. I also soldered a resistor in place of the OEM seats' side airbag (using a DMM to see what the expected resistance should be). This way I could use the OEM switches, etc.

No CELs on the first try! But, honestly, a ton of work. The new seats are an incredible upgrade over OEM, especially in terms of lumbar support, and the Corbeau seat sliders let me go further back, which helps in my two-door, considering the mid-bass pods do restrict the legroom a bit. The seats are vinyl, despite appearing like leather, so IMHO the Jeep brand aesthetic is still maintained, since they're effectively waterproof.

Also, I was able to get some diamond-stitched (vinyl) covers for the rear seats from leatherseats.com, so that the upholstery would match my front aftermarket seats.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sealed mid-bass door pods, created by @toneloc2 and then shipped to me:

Tony modeled these on his own 4-door JL Wrangler doors. Turns out his Sahara w/ leather had slightly different cards than my Rubicon w/ cloth. :(

Ultimately, it still worked out well. Honestly, I'm still amazed that he was able to build these, ship to me, and then I could just install them, and it all just worked. I would have thought something would be misaligned, etc., since he didn't have my actual door cards in his hands.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Sealed mid-bass door pods, mounted by myself and @naiku

Ian (naiku) lives 1.5 hours from me, so occasionally we get together to bang out random car work and/or share in our other common interest (old school hip hop). I'm glad that our paths crossed a little less than a year ago.

The pods are fully sealed and meant to be mounted on the door card. The Wrangler door cards don't have any airspace behind them, since the doors are removable (I.e. no OEM speakers). The edges of the mid-bass pods use 3/4" MDF, so we basically traced the pods onto the masking tape on the door card, and then drilled holes around the edges, around 3/8" in from the edge. Put a layer of neoprene foam in between the card and pod, and then mounted from the backside.

Surprisingly, that was all the dampening needed. A couple months later we ended up pulling the cards off again and adding ~50% more screws, and tightening all screws.

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
MiniDSP Flex (with Dirac Live), which I mounted in the glove box:

Note that I had to build a little power converter/stabilizer, since it was meant for home usage. I settled on this voltage stabilizer after discussion with @oabeieo and @DaveG. Coupled that with a 12v relay, for remote turn-on.

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Amp rack, including CDSP, in cargo tub of the trunk:

I put down a bit of CLD, mainly to cover up some holes from my prior v1 build, but also to dampen a bit. I used DEI "Under Carpet" on the bottom, which is a CCF/MLV combo. Then carpeted over it all best I could.

The shelf itself is plywood, cut using a jigsaw, T-nuts for all mounting points, and then carpeted over.

1/0AWG power and ground wires are coming into the cargo tub from outside the vehicle. Those wires are wrapped with Techflex + exterior tesa tape.

Noob mistake: I forgot to run the DSP's USB cable through the grommet :( And there is zero space remaining to pass anything through it.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
C-DSP OLED remote, disassembled and mounted in front of the cupholders in my center trim, with help from @naiku. The center trim piece popped off with panel pries, then we used a dremel to remove two mounting clips where the remote would go. Drilled three holes through the trim piece for the OLED's OEM mounting holes. Exposed hex screws is on-brand for the Jeep, so it worked out nicely, for my needs/tastes.

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Sub enclosure, built by Paul @ NET Audio and shipped to me:

Shout out to @daloudin for helping me realize this two SQL-12s in a down-firing ported arrangement was the best box for my needs, especially considering limited space (SQL-12s can use an unusually small ported box) and soft top (little-to-no cabin gain).
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
A Pillars, built and shipped by @toneloc2

This is the third set of pillars I've worked with Tony on. First were Hertz Mille; second were Stereo Integrity, which sounded phenomenal (much better than Mille Legend, for my application anyways)! This third set he actually built for himself on his 4dr JL Wrangler, and then offered to sell them to me at such a reasonable price that I couldn't refuse him. No complaints on the SI pillars; I just simply couldn't pass this up.

He tested out several different angles, etc, and I got to benefit from his research!

Shout out to @bertholomey for talking me over the ledge (he currently runs TH 1.5 II and TH 3.0 I)

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
More shots of pillar work:
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Taking a break on posting pics for now, but will update again tomorrow with pics of the pillars installed (and LED backlit), pics of the subs installed above the amp rack, as well as a walkthrough of my tuning process, using a 2ch Dirac tune (with the Flex) on top of a 7ch Dirac tune (with the C-DSP)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm in for this. I got to hear V1 at NCSQ. It sounded amazing.
Thanks man. Your car sounded amazing too! You heard my v1.5 :)
 
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I love the backlit speaker. I was wondering when somone do that to the treanslucent "Voce/Thesis". Is it too bright or a distraction while driving? If so maybe a dimmer control.
 
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Damn....I did life wrong.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I love the backlit speaker. I was wondering when somone do that to the treanslucent Voce. Is it too bright or a distraction while driving? If so maybe a dimmer control.
It's much less bright in person than the picture would imply, so it hasn't been an issue. During the day it's hardly noticeable; in the evening/night it's kind of like how some of the more luxurious cars have brighter (but still not invasive) footwell lights. I haven't driven it at midnight in the pitch black yet. I think that will be interesting to see. If it is too bright, then I'll probably try to tap into the OEM footwell LED's power source, because that is dimmable. Which assumes that the LEDs in my pillars are dimmable (hopefully a fair assumption). Otherwise i'll wire it to one of the Jeep's auxiliary switches (I have 4) for accessories, so I can turn off when distracting.

I currently have it running with ignition, and the coolest part of it IMHO is that, when I get in the car and then press the ignition button, they light up immediately, which feels like an experience. Hard to explain, but you'll see in person soon hopefully (are you going to the Naiku's September meet?)
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
FYI, I updated each of the picture posts above with some color commentary, for anyone interested
 
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