Bump

 

I have one of these too, but there's not a lot you can do with it. It just on/off the features.

the manual is on the website, and I've emailed kicker before, their experts will reply fairly quick.

 

I couldn't find the email for kicker

 

support@kicker.com

The info you need is in the manual here:

https://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/47KEY2004.pdf

 

The problem is I don't understand it.That's my problem

 

1. Are you using passive crossovers that come with the Sound Ordinance component speakers, or not?

2. Are there completely separate wire runs for the midwoofers in the doors and the tweeters that don't go through a OEM/factory crossover?

3. Are you powering any Rear Speakers?

4. Do you have a subwoofer?


For 6.5" to 6"x9" front door midwoofers, you would typically set the HPF (High Pass Filter) to 80Hz for protection and let a subwoofer handle the frequencies below 80Hz.

If you don't have a sub yet, you might be able to get away with the HPF being set to the lower 60Hz setting to help fill in the lower midbass frequencies, but this will limit how loud you can play them before distortion occurs and/or bottoming out and potentially damaging the voice coils in the gap to the magnet's backplate.

In the Kicker Key's "Bi-Amp" mode, you can only power one pair of front tweeters and one pair of front midwoofers without using passive crossovers that come with the Sound Ordinance (or any other 2-way component speakers).

We can help further once we have the information above.

HTH

 

Dean goes thru all the settings here

Kicker has a couple videos that go thru it all too.

 

Using passive crossovers. Complete separate runs of wire. Factory plugs into input on the passive crossovers everything else is on its own. No sub. The kicker key is running front and rear speakers and tweeters.

 

The Kicker Key 200.4 CANNOT power both Front AND Rear 2-way Components without using the supplied Sound Ordinance Passive Crossovers when the KEY 200.4 is set to BI-AMP mode. Unfortunately, they need to make a KEY 200.8 so we can do that!

I would still set the HPF on the KEY Amp to at least 60Hz for both the Front and Rear speakers, and use a Subwoofer to fill in the bottom end if at all possible using the Kicker KEY 500.1.

Have you analyzed the signal that is coming from the OEM head unit and factory harness? Is it FLAT and FULL RANGE (20Hz-20kHz)? Does it apply Volume-Dependent EQ (this reduces bass & midbass levels as you turn up the volume)???

If not, you may want to add the Kicker KEYLOC in order to help address that. Unfortunately, the KEYLOC only provides a 2 Channel (stereo) output, where ideally you would want 4 output channels in order to facillitate Front/Rear FADER control.

 

I am using the supplied crossovers that came with the speakers

 

So...using the Owner's Manual and diagrams as a guide, set the DIP switches on the KEY200.4 so that Bi-Amp Mode is set to OFF, and then also set the DIP Switches to engage at least the 60Hz HPFs going to your front and rear speakers via the Sound Ordinance passive crossovers. Those passive crossovers do not have built-in HPFs for the Sound Ordinance midwoofers to protect them from suwoofer frequencies. If you experience distortion or mechanical noises from the door-mounted midwoofers when listening at higher SPLs, raise the HPF on the KEY200.4 to 80Hz instead of 60Hz.

 

 

Thats everything im running

 

I also dont know where the switch should be on the passive crossovers

 

leave it at 0db, the kicker amp is going to auto eq it to flat signal after you run the auto eq program.

 

 

Those are my settings as of now

 

Using a wired connection to android auto

 

 

You would do all that from the mic button right?

 

RTFM

 

What

 

He's saying read the manual.