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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings, new member here.

I just purchased a very nice 2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 double cab and decided to do an upgrade of the audio system. Even though it's a TRD SR5, it has the base, non JBL stereo system that has no sub and doesn't really inspire. It's been years since I built my last sub box, but I've gotten the bug again. Due to a limited budget, I'm going to build this system step by step over the next few months. The total budget is around $1500. My list so far includes the following:

1. Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX - it's got pretty much everything I would need and the bonus of having wireless phone connectivity.
2. Rockford Fosgate R2-750X5 - 5 channel amplifier with 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms - this will work well with the sub.
3. Infinity Reference REF-6530cx - main speakers in the front doors and tweeters in the dash
4. Infinity Reference REF-6532ex - speakers in the rear doors
5. Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-10 subwoofer in a custom box under the rear seat. Leaning toward sealed due to more natural sound.

The rear speaker are especially weak, so I'll install the REF-6532ex first. They actually arrived today.

Nothing else has been purchased yet as I would like to hear your guys input and recommendations before going further.

This will be a slow build, but very well documented. Looking forward to sharing and gaining knowledge.

Eric
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I just put together a nice little system in my '08 Tundra DC over the last year. If you want to have a nice 1 seat SQ system, I'd definitely recommend a DSP. I started with replacing the HU, adding an amp, and replacing the door speakers just like you plan. I later added a DSP and went to an active 3-way setup. It's crazy what's possible with adding a DSP and learning how to optimize it.

If you decide to do an active 3-way with DSP, here's what I'd recommend:

A good budget DSP would be the Dayton Audio DSP-408 w/Bluetooth module for about $200. There are other DSP options, but this is what I'm most familiar with and it's a good budget DSP.

The dash speakers are 2.5". I'd recommend the Morel CCWR254 for $170 or the AudioFrog GS25 for $230. Again, other options are available, just what I'm familiar with. You can then mount your tweeters in the sail panel location or on the A pillars. The sail panel location is probably a better spot and you can find replacement panels with the tweeter cutout pretty cheap.

You'd have to add another amp to get at least 7 or 8 channels. I'd recommend getting a 4 channel class A/B amp for the mid/tweets and using a class D amp for the midbass/sub. That just seems like the best compromise. I really like the Sony XM-GS4 for $250. I really don't even run my rear speakers anymore. I have them turned down very low so they don't pull the front stage to the back. I also just run the rears from my HU.

You should still be able to utilize the speakers that you have chosen, but going with a 6x9 midbass might be best. I'm currently testing out different 6.5" and 6x9" midbass drivers in my Tundra, but waiting for it to warm up before I start playing with them again. I found that a 3" depth driver is about the most you want to try in our trucks. You could bridge the 4 channels on the RF amp to give you a nice amount of power for some midbass drivers.

You should be able to fit a 5" deep enclosure under the rear seat. I was able to fit a 5" deep down firing enclosure with 1.5" feet (6.5" total depth), but the seat just barely latches. I tried a couple Pioneer 10" subs, a JL 10TW3, and a Stereo Integrity BM MKIII. The SI sub is a very nice SQ shallow sub. The new version is the BM MKV and is currently priced at $460.

Again, plenty of options. To summarize, get a DSP, add 7 channels of amplification, and use a nice 10" or 12" sub (80Hz), 6x9" midbass (80-300Hz), 2.5" midrange (300-3kHz), and 1" tweeter (3kHz).
 

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For your budget, I would get a Dayton DSP 408. $159. Umik mic for tuning. $100
Fosgate amp seems fine for now.
No rear speakers.
Morel tempo ultra $450.
You can save money using welding cable for the power and ground wires.
If you have room in the budget, sound deaden the doors. Its a lot of labor but well worth it.
You can do the floor and back wall too, but prob not needed.
Having a 3 way speaker setup will greatly improve the sound, but I dont know how easy it would be to mount the mid. And you need 2 more channels of amp. Then you could be getting into custom pillars/pods which can get $. And tuning a 3 way system as a newbie is difficult. You could always upgrade later. That is what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow, what a write-up! Thank you for that. I'll be sure to look into all of that, especially the DSP option, which I had zero knowledge of, or about. Makes sense though to separate the channels using it. That SI MKIII can be found as far back as 2010. No wonder I couldn't find it for sale. The MKV is out of my budget, but one can dream, lol. I've heard that placing tweeters in the sail panels can be a bit in your face as they are pointed directly at you, so to speak. For now I'm gonna experiment with them in the far left/right dash locations with the 6.5's or per your suggestion 6x9's in the doors. Let me know the results of your 6x9 door tests since we have virtually the same truck. As for the sub, I took some more measurements today and am encouraged by them. I'll probably design a down firing sealed box to fit there using the volume requirements of the sub. Pretty straight forward box build and great fun for an experiment. Please keep watching this thread as I'll be using it as a blog for the build. Thanks again for the input and great suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gold,
the Morel Tempo 6.5's would probably fit right in the door, but if I could massage the 5x7's in there, I would guess they would sound better due to their larger size? The cost is the same. Could you elaborate on the welding wire? It's been too long since I've done any car stereo stuff and I am definitely out of the loop. The sound deadening is definitely on my list. The Tundra doors need it badly, as well as the back wall. I'll start there and evaluate as I go. Took the truck out for a spin just to listen to road noise and most of it came from the rear.
 

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I dont know about the speaker size, Ballz would know more on that. If you use welding cable supply stores to purchase the power/ground wire it is flexible, good quality and cheaper than the OFC stuff sold for car audio. I got mine from wire and supply. For all of the wire it was $85 out the door. Will save you a few bucks. You can research CCA and OFC and welding cable and see what route you want to go.

Here is some of the sound deadening I did for an idea.
 

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Good call on the welding cable. I picked up some 2 gauge cable myself from the local welding supply shop.

You'll be fine with the tweeters in the pillar or sail locations. You can easily adjust the frequency response and level of each tweeter with a DSP. Having the tweets/mids up high will help raise the soundstage.

I would choose a 6.5" over a 5x7". The 6.5" should have more cone area.

The Morel Maximo Ultra 603 would actually be a nice fit for you. It's a 3-way set and the tweeters come with a mount the should work in either of those locations. I made a custom adapter to get the Morel 2.5" mids to mount in the factory dash locations. I think I even have a couple extra speaker adapter plates I could send you.

Edit: Looks like some good reviews from Tundra owners with those Morel 3-ways on Crutchfield. Some good deals on eBay for them right now too.
 

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Next step will be to go to an audio store and see if I can listen to some of the speakers we are discussing. The three way speakers all come with crossovers. Are these not used when using a DSP since it does the same thing?
 

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That is correct, the DSP will do that for you. It is nice since you wont have to try to mount them somewhere.
Grab some capacitors for your tweeters. If you send a full range signal by accident to those small tweeters, or even have a pop when you turn on the car, it can damage them.
 

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Great advice, thanks.
I bought my son a 5 channel Soundstream Rubicon Nano amp around last April, and I really like it. I can't speak for the longevity because it hasn't even quite been a year, and it might crap out tommorow. But I love the looks of it, and even though I haven't seen an amp dyno on it I feel like it puts out its rated power. It's rated for 75 x 4 rms at 4 ohms + 300 x 1 rms at 4 ohms or 500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms. I paid a little less than $200 for it.
 

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Next step will be to go to an audio store and see if I can listen to some of the speakers we are discussing.
I wish I had a local shop to demo some equipment. I've just had to sift through reviews and try different drivers myself.

I recorded a few videos about a year ago with those Morel CCWR254's installed. I've changed my setup since then. Equipment used is in the description. Listen with a good pair of headphones. Gives you an idea of what those Morel mids and a DSP system sounds like in a Tundra. Keep in mind they were recorded on a phone and uploaded to YouTube, so nothing like listening in person.


I also put together a playlist of other people's videos that will help you get started with DSP's.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wish I had a local shop to demo some equipment. I've just had to sift through reviews and try different drivers myself.

I recorded a few videos about a year ago with those Morel CCWR254's installed. I've changed my setup since then. Equipment used is in the description. Listen with a good pair of headphones. Gives you an idea of what those Morel mids and a DSP system sounds like in a Tundra. Keep in mind they were recorded on a phone and uploaded to YouTube, so nothing like listening in person.


I also put together a playlist of other people's videos that will help you get started with DSP's.

The DSP link will really come in handy as I am completely unfamiliar with it, thank you. Up until I decided to dive into car audio again, I really didn't pay much attention to sound clips on the internet and had no idea how poorly they sound on Youtube and others. Luckily I live in the Los Angeles area and have many car shops to choose from. Now to see if any of them are open for Covid business :cautious:
 

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Went to a local car stereo shop and listened to the Kappas. They were nice. The owner then turned on some 6.5 Focal Performance speakers, and I have to say I like those speakers better. It felt as if the stage was a bit wider and the highs cleaner. It was a noticeable difference. The price is maybe twenty or thirty bucks more, but for that I'll take the plunge. It's downright silly how far down the rabbit hole you can fall in the world of car stereos, lol.
 

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If you have factory dash mounted 2.5s, there are some nice appropriate wideband speakers out there that can cover up to 20k plus. This would eliminate 2 additional amp and DSP channels and help simplify everything. I have a Silverado with same size dash speakers replaced with widebands and they really sound great in my opinion. Send me a PM if you'd like more information about them.
 

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If you have factory dash mounted 2.5s, there are some nice appropriate wideband speakers out there that can cover up to 20k plus. This would eliminate 2 additional amp and DSP channels and help simplify everything. I have a Silverado with same size dash speakers replaced with widebands and they really sound great in my opinion. Send me a PM if you'd like more information about them.
Yes, I'd be interested in getting some info on those 2.5s. Could you just post it on this thread though, so all can benefit. The more options we can uncover here for Tundra owners and similar applications, the better. There isn't much depth available in those factory locations, so specs on those speakers you're talking about would be very useful. Thanks
 

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The owner then turned on some 6.5 Focal Performance speakers, and I have to say I like those speakers better.

It's downright silly how far down the rabbit hole you can fall in the world of car stereos, lol.
Very nice! I started with the Focal ISU690. Had to make some modifications to get them to fit. They actually make a set just for Toyota's. It's the Focal Inside IS TOY 690. Check out Five Star Car Stereo on YouTube. They have a few Tundra videos. I'm starting to climb out of the rabbit hole myself. Lol

There isn't much depth available in those factory locations, so specs on those speakers you're talking about would be very useful.
I've tried both the CCWR254 and Audiofrog GB25 in the dash before switching to the SI M3 coppers and carbons.

I'd say a safe depth would be 1.5". The AF GB25 is slightly deeper, but it fit pretty good. The SI M3's are close to 2" deep. I was able to get them to fit by trimming both the grill and dash mounting locations. There is a HVAC duct under the right side dash speaker that I had to heat up and push down on to gain the extra clearance.

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Discussion Starter #18
Been doing a lot of surfing for shallow mount woofers. The names that keep popping up are JL, Alpine, Rockford, Sundown Audio, Dayton and a few others.
 

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Been doing a lot of surfing for shallow mount woofers. The names that keep popping up are JL, Alpine, Rockford, Sundown Audio, Dayton and a few others.
Also check out Kicker's shallow mounts and Audio Dynamics. They have some budget friendly models.

I tried a couple of the Pioneer TS-SWX2502 loaded enclosures. I was not very happy with those. Very punchy and did not dig deep at all. I then tried a JL 10TW3 in a 0.5^ft sealed enclosure. That was much better, but still lacked in the lower sub frequency's. I was going to try it ported until I found a great deal on a used SI BM MKIII. Search was over once I played that.
 

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... until I found a great deal on a used SI BM MKIII. Search was over once I played that.
Do you recall the mounting depth on the MKIII? Were they the 10's or 12's? I'm building my own box and space is critical.

What are the drawbacks/benefits of choosing a 4ohm vs 2ohm sub? The price is usually about the same. I'm sure it has everything to do with an amp, but since I haven't bought my amps yet, I figured I'd get a bit more info. Pretty sure I want to run a mono amp to the sub and a four channel to the front components and rear's.

Btw, the suggestion to look up five car stereo tundra builds on YT was great! Lot's of info to absorb. Actually already saw door insulating vid and will look forward to the rest.
 
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