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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 80 PRS, running 3 way active atm.. Front stage is Hertz Mille ML165 older silver cone in OEM door location, ML28 big chambers on dash.. My minivan has OEM location in dash for 5.25" speaker. I found a pair of Herts EV 130s which will fit.. Was thinking of stepping up to 4 way active through manipulating subwoofer outs on PRS, combined with the crossovers on JL500/1 amp for sub, and some other amp for midbass (Fosgate Punch A series)

Question is, would the Hertz EV130 be a viable midrange option for the Milles? Or should I just look for a Hertz dome type midrange or something comparable?

I just can't get the sound I want from my front stage while configured as 2 way, seems as though there is a compromise..

I've tried every conceivable combination of crossover points and slopes, used autotune as well, can't seem to get the "sound" I'm looking for.. When I dial in the midbass too high, it get's nasal, sure EQ helps, but the 80PRS is limited.. When I dial in the tweeter too low, it gets harsh and clippy..

5khz and up seems to be the ideal comfort zone for the tweeter with the amount of wattage they're getting, and the 165s start honking in the doors around there.. So, there' either something I'm missing in terms of tweeter placement or tuning, or I just need a midrange to fill in the blanks..

Will the EV 130 be a viable option, or will it honk as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One other thing I want to point out, I'm not getting the output or midbass energy I want out of the 165s either.. I have the doors dampened, thoroughly treated, I've also got custom 1.5" mdf adapters which are the oval shape of the OEM brackets, screwed tightly to doors, mdf screwed tightly to bracket.. (no vibration)

The only thing I will change/try, will be to remove the dampening from the 2'x2' hole it's covering, fill in the hole with mdf, brace it securely to door, then add dampener.. This will hopefully beef up performance in the 80hz range.. Still, I've been dialing the mids in @ 120 hz and higher, (because of the loss of energy in the 2 x 2 hole) yet they still don't have the power handling and output to match my sub section..

I have a 300 x 2 Fosgate powering them, I've got to pull the level all the way back on the HU to get clean sound..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the 2 x 2 hole covered by dampener is clearly the culprit for lack of midbass, but will that cause the honking and general lack of optimal output as well?
 

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what you are hearing from that midbass is the midrange frequencies beint quite a bit more efficient than the midbass, it takes less power to make midrange sounds than it does midbass, so at high volumes the midbass cant keep up, even though its the same speaker. I still have no idea how the hell this works with one speaker cone but I know it does lol.

putting that 5.25 speaker will net you a lot greater output and probably allow you to cross the tweeters lower, 5k is not taking advantage of what those tweeters can actually do. a lot of people will say a 6.5 is too close to a 5.25 to make a usable improvement but I don't see why? they say its because of beaming and because the two speakers play mostly the same range, but that doesn't take into account your going to be crossing them completely differently so I think it'll work nicely.

I think vibration in the dash is going to rear its ugly head, not sure how low you plan to get that 5 playing but I'd be shooting for 150 hz or so highpass on it.
 

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I don't think a 5.25 mid is a good choice for 4-way. It will play almost as low as the 6.5, but not much higher without beaming. If you can get them on axis that'll help, but that's a pretty big speaker to get on axis in most cars. I think you're better off with a real midrange driver in the 3-4" category. This will extend the high end, which is really one of the main benefits of a 4-way system. A typical 3-way has the mid/tweet crossover in a frequency band that we are very sensitive to. The idea of a proper mid is that you can push that frequency up higher so the crossover isn't right at 2-3khz. You'd be hard pressed to get the 5.25 up to 5-6khz without putting it on axis.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lycan, GI, please don't laugh at this one.. For some reason, I thought the 80PRS would give me undistorted signal with volume turned all the way up.. LOL!! I have been racking my brain wondering why I have to go into the audio section and pull the levels way down to get clean sound (amp gains all at 0 or minimum/ fully counterclockwise..)

Since I won't get to use an oscilloscope for proper tune till this weekend, I tried to go with my trusty ears which have never failed me.. till now.. in truth, my ears haven't failed me, it's my brain (SMH)

So, going back to the old rule of thumb for tuning by ear, and that's to set HU volume to approx 60% and set gains accordingly, I think I should be fine till the weekend, where we can break out all the gear and set optimally for 0 distortion..

Now, I covered the big hole in my door with 1/2 ply, then I covered that with hush.. MIDBASS!! LOL.. rock solid response down to 40hz, although I'll be setting them to 80.. Anything below and I start getting some unsettling rattling from doorlock mechs..

I'll keep you in the loop, may muster the energy to go back downstairs and try setting gains with HU volume at roughly 60% of max.. Of course EQ flat, loudness off, etc..

Will be back LOL

oh, and after giving it thought (after I posted this) I came to the same conclusion.. The EV130 is just going to be a smaller, inferior version of the 6.5", so I probably won't get good midrange response from it..

Another thing I want to point out, at lower levels, these tweeters sound fantastic well down to the 2.5hz range, although 3.5 seems to be the magic number..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
why did I post twice regarding same topic?? Sorry guys, I have a short attention span, may also have an early onset of Alzheimer's.. (not even joking)
 
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