[Jstaguy24]

I've been trying to plan my 3 way front stage. I have been debating between the silver flute and Dayton reference 8" midbass. I can fit an 8" but will require some custom panels (lots Of work). How significant would the difference be between the Dayton reference 7" and 8" midwooofer. I could probably fit the 7 with only a spacer. 8" I don't think I will be able to. Or is there any really strong 6.5" midbass's that would be comparable to the 8"??

I'm thinking of putting the tweeters in the factory location in the suburban armrest and my mid in the kick panels? So all speakers would be fairly close in proximity. Any concerns with this plan??

Thanks for any help

 

[Mless5]

Keep in mind that Dayton drivers have a huge flange and actual cone area is smaller than of a traditional 7".

 

[upgrayedd]

the exodus anarchy seems to be a really strong 6.5

 

[Jstaguy24]

Thanks for that info on the Dayton. I hadnt noticed it's closer to 9" diameter

 

[Jstaguy24]

the exodus anarchy seems to be a really strong 6.5

Where can you get them? I googled it. Found 2013 articles about them shutting down. Couldn't find anything on them for sale. I'll look again though

 

[Bloodyjames]

The Exodus Anarachy are basically the Audible Physics H6MB 6.5' midbass. Look them up on this forum and you should find them. They are decent pair of speakers for the price, but they don't get that low.

Silver flute does make a 6.5' version of their 8' driver with good results.

CDT also has their fair share of woofers. They get expense but they do like to drop low which is what I like to have in a 3 way system to provide bass to the front stage and blend easier with a sub woofer. At least their ES line.

Here is a picture of the AP H6MB

 

[SkizeR]

The Exodus Anarachy are basically the Audible Physics H6MB 6.5' midbass.

Not true at all

 

[Jstaguy24]

How significant is the difference between a 6.5 or 7" and 8". I'll do the work of it's worth all the hours to build The door Panel. If it's not a huge difference I'll save the hours of work. I've always ran 6.5" mids in component sets. I want it strong to 80hz where I'll cross my 15's

 

[Zippy]

Being someone running both silver flute 6.5" and 8", the 6.5" do dig deep. They will play down to 60-70 hz with ease. The 8" will play down to 40-50 hz ranges easily. I often demo my RAV4 with the sub off and ask their thoughts on sub output just before I show them it is off. On the silver flutes, the 8" is worth the extra effort to fit in if you want more upfront bass. Due to the size of the magnet some metal in the door needed trimmed back to fit them. Instead of being flush to the door frame, they had to be built out to be flush with the door panel.

The only complaint I have about running 8" in my doors is the power window/lock switches rattle. It's more of an annoyance than anything else. With any home audio speaker you use in a vehicle, you will have to do some eq work. The speakers are designed to be used on axis. The opposite side will sound louder than the closer speaker. Just a quick FYI.

If you can not afford a really nice set of 6.5"(car speakers designed to be played off axis) or are wanting more upfront bass, then the 8" is worth the effort. If you can get a quality 6.5" and are fine with the traditional midbass/sub blending points, then the 6.5" will work for you.

Hope that helped.

 

[Jstaguy24]

What would be considered really good car midbass speakers that can play well off axis. My budget is limited but can take my time to get what I'm going to be happy with. Right now im limited to a crossover with bandpass capability. I will be going with a dsp. It's all just a step at a time.
Listening to my radio today, the sub really hits hard low, but their is some of the upper bass frequencies where it's weak, that may be helped out once I get the second sub in place. my infinity coax aren't filling it in either. I listen to a lot of rock and that's where I notice the discrepancy the most. If I put in some dub step, or something that really hits the lower bass register I don't notice it. But I want to listen to what I like and have it sound great, not just listen to what sounds great.

Being someone running both silver flute 6.5" and 8", the 6.5" do dig deep. They will play down to 60-70 hz with ease. The 8" will play down to 40-50 hz ranges easily. I often demo my RAV4 with the sub off and ask their thoughts on sub output just before I show them it is off. On the silver flutes, the 8" is worth the extra effort to fit in if you want more upfront bass. Due to the size of the magnet some metal in the door needed trimmed back to fit them. Instead of being flush to the door frame, they had to be built out to be flush with the door panel.

The only complaint I have about running 8" in my doors is the power window/lock switches rattle. It's more of an annoyance than anything else. With any home audio speaker you use in a vehicle, you will have to do some eq work. The speakers are designed to be used on axis. The opposite side will sound louder than the closer speaker. Just a quick FYI.

If you can not afford a really nice set of 6.5"(car speakers designed to be played off axis) or are wanting more upfront bass, then the 8" is worth the effort. If you can get a quality 6.5" and are fine with the traditional midbass/sub blending points, then the 6.5" will work for you.

Hope that helped.

 

[Kriszilla]

The Exodus Anarachy are basically the Audible Physics H6MB 6.5' midbass. Look them up on this forum and you should find them. They are decent pair of speakers for the price, but they don't get that low.

I won't correct on the H6MB, since that's already been taken care of, but to say that the Anarchy's don't get low shows that you've never run them.

I've run mine as low as 50Hz, just for kicks when I first got them, and they held together phenomenally well. Their output can only be described as brutal, yet clean, in a well treated door. I typically run them around 63Hz and they're fed with 450x2 out of a bridged PPI P900.4. Mine see about 1/2 that since they're the 8 Ohm version.

If you want a demo, I'll be happy to queue up some bass tracks with the Anarchy's at 50Hz & the sub off so you can watch things bounce around on my dash and in my cupholders.

Oh, and it's nice to see another user on here with the FI Q 12. I love this driver!

 

[Kriszilla]

How significant is the difference between a 6.5 or 7" and 8". I'll do the work of it's worth all the hours to build The door Panel. If it's not a huge difference I'll save the hours of work. I've always ran 6.5" mids in component sets. I want it strong to 80hz where I'll cross my 15's

The 8's will do things with a lot less effort. If you can fit them, and find them, the 8" Morel MW220's are a fantastic driver that don't require gobs of power (but it will soak it up with its huge 3" VC) and will go down to the 60's with impressive authority. They're also only about 2.5" or so deep.

The Morel CAW938's can be found on the shelf at Madisond and Parts-express and they are also really shallow, model well in a typically treated car door, and can usually fit where a 6.5" will with a properly built spacer adapter.

Honestly, if you can wait another month, I'd get the new TM65 driver from Stereo Integrity that is still available for pre-order at less than $100 each, plus shipping. I may actually replace my Anarchy's with them.

 

[Kriszilla]

What would be considered really good car midbass speakers that can play well off axis.

Axis isn't that important with your midbass. What you have to take into account is called Beaming. The ELI5 (Explain Like I'm 5) is that, essentially, the speaker is crossed so high that it starts to lose it's omnidirectional capability.

Here's a great thread on it:

what is the equation to calculate driver beaming by diameter?

 

[Jstaguy24]

So if I go with any of the 8's and keep it bandpassed at around 60 hz-1700 hz give or take I should be ok. Can play with the tuning from there.
I'm looking mainly at silver flites and was just checking out the peerless sls also.

Axis isn't that important with your midbass. What you have to take into account is called Beaming. The ELI5 (Explain Like I'm 5) is that, essentially, the speaker is crossed so high that it starts to lose it's omnidirectional capability.

Here's a great thread on it:

what is the equation to calculate driver beaming by diameter?

 

[Zippy]

What would be considered really good car midbass speakers that can play well off axis. My budget is limited but can take my time to get what I'm going to be happy with. Right now im limited to a crossover with bandpass capability. I will be going with a dsp. It's all just a step at a time.
Listening to my radio today, the sub really hits hard low, but their is some of the upper bass frequencies where it's weak, that may be helped out once I get the second sub in place. my infinity coax aren't filling it in either. I listen to a lot of rock and that's where I notice the discrepancy the most. If I put in some dub step, or something that really hits the lower bass register I don't notice it. But I want to listen to what I like and have it sound great, not just listen to what sounds great.

A really good anything is subjective to personal preference. All car audio products will play well off axis. For midbass I personally look for a low FS and high xMax from the t/s specs. The hertz speaker line for high energy and up are good performers that are not that expensive on the lower end.

So, have you done the time intensive low cost stuff yet? Like sound deadening and sealing the doors. That does help with midbass response. The other common killer of midbass response is phase which can be adjusted with time alignment if your headunit has that. There are a lot of really good threads on this forum for setting time alignment. ErinH's sig has a link to an online calc that's good.

 

[Jstaguy24]

Finished deadening the doors today in fact. I don't have time alignment ability yet. Getting all my speakers in, wiring ran etc. probably get a dsp as one of my final purchases after everything is in place.

 

[Zippy]

You could get an early start on a DSP for cheap. MiniDSP at madisound. There also was a used 360.3 posted earlier today for around $360.

 

[Bloodyjames]

Not true at all

You are correct. That was my bad I wasn't paying attention and confused the drivers. I meant to say the Euphoria is like the H6MB. I apologize for any confusion.

 

[Jstaguy24]

You could get an early start on a DSP for cheap. MiniDSP at madisound. There also was a used 360.3 posted earlier today for around $360.

I had been planning on the ppi dsp88-r. What would be the difference between that at 208.00 and the mini dsp for a little more then half the cost. Other then more channels on the ppi. I didn't see if it had any eq ability and # of bands. I haven't had time to look through all the specs

 

[YukonXL04]

Please share a link to where you found the ppi for $208... I need one