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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm currently running active with focal 130vrs in the front doors and some seas tffncgs on the a-pillar on axis (enclosed in pvc end caps) and a focal 25a1 10 sub in the back all running off a boston acoustics 5 channel amp (hu internal amp off). I would like to add some 3" mids (I'm looking at the tang band's 1364sa for budget purposes) that I will also be building pods with end caps for and most likely be putting them on the a-pillar as well. I have sat with a local installer that made improvements with the eq, however I think I could benefit from a 3" in the guesstimating range of 500 or 800-2k.

Anyway...my question is what are my options from a wiring perspective?

being a noob the only choice I'm aware of is running said mids...the 3" off the hu and installing a passive crossover which incidentally I would love a reccommendation.

thank you gentleman
 

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Those TB midranges are only rated at 12WRMS so 500Hz is too low, IMO. I'd try maybe 700Hz as a lower F3 and if you do put them in/next to the A-pillars (keep in mind they're 2" deep which is a bit much for A-pillar usage, I think), you can run them pretty high. They might even be workable without a tweeter. That's why their power handling is so low. The Mms (moving mass) has to be kept really low to get that high frequency response which means a tiny voice coil and thin cone.

Don't use 2k as an upper crossover point, either. Try 3000-3500. Make sure the midrange is close to the tweeter as physically possible.

For a crossover... roll your own. Use a textbook crossover for "good enough" and fix any imperfections with an equalizer or tune the crossover itself with the drivers, a microphone and software called LSPCad. The Dayton brand crossovers are looking for an 8 ohm tweeter so forget them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Understood and thank you. So that is the only wiring solution?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm using the crossovers on the hu in nw mode, rcas to the amp etc.
 

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Do you not have Focal crossovers? Do you just have the mids? I was asking because if you happened to have the crossovers from the set the woofers are from, they might happen to work "good enough" for this if at least the impedances match. If not then oh well.

another way is with an amp that has crossovers built in. Could find a small, cheap, active capable 4 channel amp used... I dunno man. 3-ways take some money. They definitely take a lot of tweaking. We can sit here and try to approximate a passive crossover for your midranges/tweeters, but you're not gonna be able to tweak it and it won't sound its best and you might be able to do better with a tweaked 2-way over the non-tweaked 3-way...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have the crossovers but I got rid of the tweets, too bright no matter where I placed them or where I cut or boosted on the eq...maybe someone could have done it but not I. I'm much happier with the seas. Why does it have to be a four channel amp and not a two? I couldn't run a audiocontrol 2-way xo between the hu and the 3"s?
 

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I use the 880PRS and a minidsp 2x4 unit to do 3 way + sub active. Set the midrange crossover slopes to bypass & run the midrange output from the 880PRS to the minidsp. Use the mini to bandpass the midbass & midrange output. Extremely flexible crossover selection, time alignment, phase, gain & separate L & R PEQ's for all 4 channels. Check out Bikinpunk's review in review forum for more info on minidsp. Excellent product. Make sure you also get miniDC isolator to prevent any noise & turn on/off pop. Tried to do 3 way with crossover on amp and it was just too limited to dial in correctly. You will need some good DSP to make it work in my opinion. Minidsp is an inexpensive solution. HTH
 

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Problem is you can't do TA if you xover outside the HU. You need that shiny new P99 HU they make now lol. I want to put an 8-10" midbass in my fronts and run a 4" comp set. So I plan to run the 10s low only, guessing 50-200 or so. Not sure how the 4" will run down at 200 they worked nice before at 100 but I had a small amp on them. That way I can run the midbass and sub on the HU sub out and split it with an external xover. Only the subs would be out of TA and at 50Hz and lower would it really matter....I could get an amp with variable phase for them if I had to.
 

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Problem is you can't do TA if you xover outside the HU.


The minidsp has adjustable time delay (up to 7.5ms) for all 4 outputs as well as crossover, phase, gain & PEQ. Kind of tricky cause the 880PRS time alignment is set in distance (cm or in) & minidsp is in ms, but once you wrap your brain around it you can time delay sub & tweets off HU & midbass & mids off minidsp. If your mids & midbass happen to be the same distance away you can use no delay from minidsp & delay thru mid output from 880PRS, which would delay both the mids & midbass equally.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I use the 880PRS and a minidsp 2x4 unit to do 3 way + sub active. Set the midrange crossover slopes to bypass & run the midrange output from the 880PRS to the minidsp. Use the mini to bandpass the midbass & midrange output. Extremely flexible crossover selection, time alignment, phase, gain & separate L & R PEQ's for all 4 channels. Check out Bikinpunk's review in review forum for more info on minidsp. Excellent product. Make sure you also get miniDC isolator to prevent any noise & turn on/off pop. Tried to do 3 way with crossover on amp and it was just too limited to dial in correctly. You will need some good DSP to make it work in my opinion. Minidsp is an inexpensive solution. HTH
hmm, never heard of that product, if it works for you awesome, I'll look into it,thanks!
 

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Yes the minidsp would work, or some other external processor like the older ones. One thing to keep in mind is the xover points you have available, for example you only get part of them if the 880 is in standard mode doing sub/F/R and not networked. On the other hand I really don't want more crap in my car I didn't like having the PEQ in there as it has no remote it was big, but need something, actually I bought another PEQ a while back so I could chain them and PEQ the sub and midbass each. Not sure what I will do though there is no room in car to have both in front. Might look into some kind of bass box with a remote and PEQ in it. Not sure on that either lol. I think I will wimp out and put new larger rears in first and see what it does.
 
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