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Discussion Starter #1
i am looking for a way to get 30A keyed/switched under my dash. i just now thought to look for an unused fuse, but other than that ?
i just installed an aftermarket power window setup, so i need switched to power it.

thanx
 

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30A is more than most OEM circuits under the dash are designed for. I'd take 8ga. from the battery to automotive relay, ground from chassis. Connect the relay coil to the switched circuit of your choice. Done.
 

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Looks like Stud #2 is un-used 30A in the engine bay fuse block, so throw some 8ga or whatever on a ringer terminal there and run into the cab.

Alternatively the rear window defrost circuit is 30A I think, but I don't know if you can get easy access to it in the cab, and don't think you would want to if you are in northern IL.
Schmiddr2's suggestion above is the correct plan, and stud #2 makes an easy source! Test to see if it's switched or hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok, thanx guys. i was hoping to avoid running a wire into the cab, i don't like doing that(i'm funny that way). but it looks like the only good solution.
 

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How was the install of the aftermarket power Windows? Thinking of doing them in someones car

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How was the install of the aftermarket power Windows? Thinking of doing them in someones car
not to bad actually. hardest part is getting the unit behind the door panel, and that was pretty easy for me = no bending the unit. just bending the crank brackets. and getting the harness to tuck behind the DP.

the driver door window works great. the passenger side is a bit sluggish (i did lube the tracks), perhaps because of the longer wire run, idk.

i even cut holes in the DP for the switches = didn't use the supplied switch mounts. FAAAAR easier than i thought it would be.

let me get a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i decided to go with the "stud #2". got all the parts. then drilled a hole in the firewall, in not so good a place. turns out, on the inside, 3/4 of the hole is double layer sheet metal, 1/4 is in single sheet metal. my grommet will not take double sheet metal.
i should have looked better (it was behind the factory sound deadener).

so now i have to find a solution to this.

i really do feel like i am F'n up my truck. overreaction, yes, but thats the way i feel sometimes.

anyway. any ideas ?
 

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I have never drilled a hole in a firewall. It's not the end of the world, but I would definitely patch it closed and run the wire through an existing hole in the firewall, of which there are many. Look through the existing electrical wire grommets that go from the engine into the cab, and find one that you can reach easily from the inside of the cab. Then use an awl (or something similar) to make a round hole in the grommet, and run your new wire through. Finish seal hole with black RTV if you like.

You know this no, but never drill a hole without knowing exactly whats on the other side first, and knowing what you are drilling through.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
menards had the same grommets i had. so, with some effort, i got the one in, so it all good.


I have never drilled a hole in a firewall. It's not the end of the world, but I would definitely patch it closed and run the wire through an existing hole in the firewall, of which there are many. Look through the existing electrical wire grommets that go from the engine into the cab, and find one that you can reach easily from the inside of the cab. Then use an awl (or something similar) to make a round hole in the grommet, and run your new wire through. Finish seal hole with black RTV if you like.

You know this no, but never drill a hole without knowing exactly whats on the other side first, and knowing what you are drilling through.
had i thought of that, thats what i would have done. but all is well now.

i knew there was nothing behind the drill hole, sides the factory sound deadening. but because the deadening was pretty tight, i didn't look behind it.
after drilling, something didn't look right, so i looked.

anyway, on to the next thing.
 

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Pretty common to use the cigarette lighter circuit to trigger if it's keyed, because it's generally easy to get to and not mission critical if something goes wrong. Some are hot though, not keyed, so check with DMM before tapping.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pretty common to use the cigarette lighter circuit to trigger if it's keyed, because it's generally easy to get to and not mission critical if something goes wrong. Some are hot though, not keyed, so check with DMM before tapping.
good idea, i will check it. idk if is keyed or not, i don't use it.
otherwise, what else ?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
cig is always hot, and was a pita to get to.
i ended finding a loose plug at the bottom of the column. idk what it is for, but it had 3 keyed hots. anyway, its all done. started the alarm install.
 
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