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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short, I have a 2002 Grand Prix that comes with 5.25" speakers from the factory. I have since installed 6.5's in the car but it's still not optimal and not up to my standards.

As it sits now, i've ditched the black factory speaker mount and i've cut my factory speaker hole to a larger size, and cut up some cutting boards to attach the 6.5 to. However, I have a very small window of where I can mount these speakers as the mounting depth of the speaker magnet hitting the glass and the front of the speaker hitting the door panel are very limited. The factory pods came with a curved shape that protrudes out more on the bottom which follows the shape of the door panel. Right now, just using a flat piece of plastic the speaker doesn't fill out to the door panel and the aiming is way off. Here's what the factory pods look like:



I basically want to create something similar to this to fit a 6.5" and have found new enjoyment in using Sketchup/3D printing (so far i've only actually designed/printed some small circle rings for my tweeters) but i'd like to take it a step further and possibly recreate a speaker adapter that would be made to custom spec and fill out to my door panel. The problem with sketchup is either I don't know how or it doesn't allow me to create all the custom shapes/curves that I really want to create this right.

Can anyone give me any advice on what direction to go? I've also just thought about fiberglassing a shape from scratch but wanted to give 3D modeling/printing a shot first.
 

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Fusion 360 is the go to for 3D hobbys, and has good crossover to the corporate world if that could be of benefit. It is free for personal use.

That said, if you have a router or especially a router table that would be quick and easy to do stacking Baltic birch.
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Its going to be a big shock going from sketchup to fusion 360. They are in no way similar. Completely different approach to 3D modeling. Between learning the software, measuring the car, making the model, printing multiple models, adjusting, and repeating, your going to be working on this for a while. I do recommend learning Fusion 360. But I think this project would be very simple to do by hand. And quite a complicated project to end up with a perfect printable model.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses guys. Just looking for feedback. I definitely will start learning Fusion - wouldn't mind learning it now and possibly using it in the future for other projects. I've just felt stuck in the mud on the best way to approach this.

The main issue is how my door panel warps inward near the top of where I mount the midbass. I stumbled across this build where a guy was having the same issue. He ended up cutting up the bottom portion of the door panel and mounting a speaker ring on the inner door skin, and then molding a shape around that with fiberglass on the door panel. This seems like the most logical way to do it for me.

The only thing i'm not 100% on is how he actually formed that shape and bridged the gap between where the panel sits and where his speaker ring is, because you obviously wouldn't just want to layer down 2" of fiberglass to build that part up. It almost looks like he just made it as a separate removable panel that would come off first then the rest of the existing door panel, but i'm not sure.







 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not my car but here is a picture of the factory door panel. The idea I have is to cut out that red circled section, and fiberglass something there that sits even with where it starts to indent indwards, and then mold it down to the left to match that area. I actually ripped all the vinyl off of an old door panel and could use that to possibly cover a new piece I make and have it match perfectly. That little cubby to the left of the speaker also has an insert that comes out that I could build on/around as I don't think i've used that cubby once before.

 

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I made some 3d printed speakers adapters with a similar angle for my Subaru. Making an angled speaker adapter is quite simple if you got a CNC mill or a 3d printer.

I see no reason you could not create your speaker adapter with common polygonal modelling, although I wouldn't recommend that. CAD software is much nicer for that kinda thing. Have you taken a look at FreeCAD?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've decided to just stop wondering how this is gonna work and just started experimenting. My local u-pull it has over 20 Grand Prixs so I can replace parts easily if I mess up.

Anyway, i've just decided to cut out this section of the door, and I glued some foam I had on the backside so I could change the shape of this area. Notice how it stays flat as it curves down and to the left until the very left edge. I'll probably also cut a few little wood sticks down and place them underneith this foam to give it a more accurate shape until the first round of fiberglass hardens. This will give me more than enough room to mount under there.
Just got some fiberglass mat/resin tonight and i'm gonna experiment with fiberglassing something the first time. All i've really done before is bondo making some tweeter pods and they turned out pretty darn well.

I've done a little reading and it appears fiberglass doesn't bond to plastic very well, so what I can do is drill a bunch of holes around the perimeter of my cutout so the fiberglass/resin soaks through and bonds to itself creating a "lock" of its own nature. After that i'm hoping just to pull the vinyl back down on top of it all so I don't need to worry about making a pretty finish.

Comments, critiques? Suggestions?

 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Check my build log in my signature. I have some photos of the process you would follow. If you have any questions along the way, Let me know. I will help! Fiberglassing is an invaluable tool for car audio.

-Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your log has definitely given me some ideas.

I like how you mold the bottom shape of the speaker pods to the car and then build up and around that. How are you fastening the pods to the car panels?

Also, what fabric is that you're stretching over? That stuff looks super easy to work with and pretty strong for a first fiberglass layer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The method your using with the rolled up paper to create that perfect curve/shape is also pretty neat!
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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3M VHB 5952 tape. The cloth is just an old thermal underwear top. I just grab whatever shirt, sock, anything I have that I don't need for the first layer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I figured i'd update this thread with some pics of my journey. I have no idea what i'm doing, and don't claim to, so critiques are welcome - i'm learning by error.



This is a picture of the factory door panel and you can see where it hits my 6.5 midbass speaker.




So here's where I started. I rough cutted that area up there and ended up with something looks like this. Oh great! I'm done. Just kidding, i wanna make it look pretty. I was attempting to use the foam to help shape the area just because I had some sitting around, but this is one of those mistakes I learned from.




Here's the underside of the panel. I drilled small holes all the way around this shape (you can kinda see a few at this point) as a means of fastening the layers of fiberglass to itself through the panel, since fiberglass doesn't really bond with plastic too well. The little black pieces are the remains of the foam at this point.



And on one the top





So now I got to this point tonight. Again, I have no idea what i'm doing and i'm making this up as I go. You can see the fiberglass layer that is completely ugly as piss because I was experimenting with some leftover fillers I had, just to see how it set with it. I'm making this all up but at the end I know i'm going to wrap this stuff in vinyl versus try and paint it. My hole is quite lobsided and I need to add some 3d to this shape to conform to the door panel. I use the speaker ring for my speakers as a base and glue a few wood sticks on until flat-ish.l



And my last step of the night before it got late and Walmart closed (need more fiberglass mat/resin). Just laid down aluminum foil around the area and tape it off exactly how I wanted my shape to be.



Now I just gotta mat that up and probably 1 maybe 2 layers of fiberglass on it and it will be a mold I can just pop right off. I'm thinking of just making some little mounts on the underside of the piece and use door panel clips to hold it on. That way I can just snap this piece on/off when I want.
 

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2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
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Looks like your doing a great job. I, also, "Make it up as I go." I use paper, cardboard, tape, foil, t-shirts, panty hose, anything that will help me get that first layer into the shape that I want it. Your definately a "Go Getter." Just don't rush. Be patient. Especially when it comes to the body work and/or shaping. Make sure you have all the structural integrity you will need before you start with the body filler.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I haven't posted pics yet but I will, i'm done fiberglassing and laid down a little body filler to smooth my piece out a decent amount before wrapping it.

Anyone had success wraping door panel parts with vinyl fabrics from places like JoAnn's? Trying to find something decent locally. Thanks!

Oh and the aluminum foil method just didn't work very well for me. a lot of the fiberglass penetrated through/cut through probably when I was dabbing it and it ended up fusing itself all together, the foil was stuck pretty good and I had to scrape it off as it kept breaking off in little pieces. For my first layer I cut down a sheet of fiberglass mat first and then started soaking it in resin, not sure if the other way around would have been more beneficial? But any rate, the bottom of my fiberglass basically looks exactly like that aluminum foil does up there!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Done for now. Tired of messing with it. It came out meh. I am officially terrible with wrapping things, I couldn't get all the wrinkles out. You don't wanna see the other side, it is UGLY. It might also be because I used some pretty cheap vinyl from JoAnn's. The stuff was 1/4 as thick as the factory vinyl. But it was cheap.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
It most closely resembled the standard vinyl below, but it didn't even look that thick or as good of quality. I suppose that's why it turned out like dog sheet. I've since unpeeled all of it and now i'm back to square 1.
276218
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I read somewhere that it's a good idea to glue headliner material to the back of the vinyl before applying it to anything. Is this good information? The stuff I used was so darn thin that I feel like I could have got a better finish out of it by painting it, and that is what I was trying to avoid.....so I wrapped it but it just ended up worse.
 
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