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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

Here are some baffles I designed for a vehicle. It's a 3-way active setup using Focal's PS 165 F3 flax series. A 3D printed grille, not shown with its destined grille cloth, accompanies the baffles with small neodymium magnets to replace the need for Focal's grilles and extra mounting accessories.

For a smooth transition with wrapping and fiberglass the baffles will be glued to the A-pillars along the notch swept around the top of the HF side and dowels around the rest using any of the other cutouts around the backside perimeter. As a result of this smooth transition, and desired angle in the vehicle, the HF is recessed and therefore required a gentle waveguide shape to keep its acoustical path visible to the ears. The baffle negates the need to use Focal's included HF mounts by mimicking its 3 locking arms that hold the HF in place with a twisting motion. For help with wrapping, the baffle's highest surface is rotated to an angle more parallel with the A-pillar. Around this surface's perimeter a channel is used to cut the fabric after being wrapped. The last picture shows you what the left baffle could look like from the driver's position.

What would you all like to see on these, open baffle or sealed MF?
Focal ps165f3 medium


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Very nice work!
Can I ask what software design program do you use to make these renderings.
Does it run on a PC or Mac?
Thanks for the info!
 

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Nice! I've been working with parametric values to make baffles and pods easier to adapt, I think it will help people adapt, the trick I am working on now is the rear shape and those parametric values.

What are you modeling in?

I think adding features that assist with wrapping, such as recesses or grooves is a great idea.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice! I've been working with parametric values to make baffles and pods easier to adapt, I think it will help people adapt, the trick I am working on now is the rear shape and those parametric values.

What are you modeling in?

I think adding features that assist with wrapping, such as recesses or grooves is a great idea.

Looks very convenient for testing angles and positioning. You could do your whole pod in one revolve feature for an easy visual and parametric approach.
This was modeled in Creo Parametric.
 

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Hell yea BROTHER! That's what I like to SEE! Your going to be Really popular around here with those skills!
Great work btw!
 

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Nice! How does the 3D printing material stand up to heat, etc? I think I've seen that there are multiple different types of material that can be used for 3D printers, some better than others (I don't have a 3D printer, so don't know the details)....
 

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Nice! How does the 3D printing material stand up to heat, etc? I think I've seen that there are multiple different types of material that can be used for 3D printers, some better than others (I don't have a 3D printer, so don't know the details)....
The glass transition temperature of the material used determines the temperature the printed pod can withstand. PLA, the most common material, has a GTT of only 130 deg F which makes it a poor choice for cars (where the dash can approach 200 deg F). PLA+ can be good to 170 deg F which makes is OK for northern climates, but it can get soft in the summer in the sun. PETG is the typical standard for pods and is good to a bit over 230 deg F. The finish is rougher but can be smoothed with a few after-treatments. ABS is awesome but requires a heated printer enclosure which pushes your investment over $700 unless you custom make an enclosure for an upgraded budget printer.

All materials shrink, but differently and not as much between layers (z-axis) so the designer has to take that into consideration.
 

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Looks very convenient for testing angles and positioning. You could do your whole pod in one revolve feature for an easy visual and parametric approach.
This was modeled in Creo Parametric.
Correct, you can see in the timeline that sample pod was made in just four steps (sketch profile, revolve, sketch holes, make threaded holes). Granted, an actual pod requires more finesse.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice! How does the 3D printing material stand up to heat, etc? I think I've seen that there are multiple different types of material that can be used for 3D printers, some better than others (I don't have a 3D printer, so don't know the details)....
Thank you. Hope gave some good info on the materials. This will be printed in ABS in a closed chamber. ABS warps the most out of any material ive used and as a result will pull off the bed plate near corners and edges. For this reason your parts should be as short and small as possible. Both of mine are less than an inch.

If too much warping occurs for the parts to mate then I will use Nylon. Nylon has a GTT just under 200F but I live in the Northeast and have had no problem with PLA on my dash. Its behind layers of body filler, paint and fiberglass anyway so it wont be the hottest component.
 
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