[Matt2023]

Finally pulled the trigger on a bambu p1s today, been procrastinating for over a year. Looking foward to the learning.

Even ignoring non car uses, I figure with needing door and dash mounts, conductor mount, distro block, duestch connector mounting, cable management goodies, amp cooling solutions it ends up cheaper to buy and learn 3d printing then fabricate a whole lot of one time solutions.

Thanks DIYMA for adding to my hobbies and skills at the expense of my wallet🤣

 

[Matt2023]

What's everyone's preffered modelling software?
I have some very limited experience in freeCAD, is that going to be fine for long term use?

 

[Matt2023]

Benchy and bambu scraper. Need to make my desk way more solid, is a 1800mm counter top secured along the back to the wall but only 4 legs, printer makes it flex crazy!

Was satisfying printing these, cant wait until I print something I designed myself.

 

[Matt2023]

Ended up sticking with freeCAD, new version right around the corner, fusion personal use license seemed restrictive and I have a few projects that may end up being used at work.

So after printing various bongo cats, cheesy Aztec death whistles and a couple of phallic key chains as "gifts" for mates, finally printed my first prototype car audio bit, the base for a combined power/ground distro for 3xANL fuses.
Is massive, so might end up redesigning for midi/mini ANL and separating power and ground.

Anyway, 8% lightning infill, 114grams, 56m print time, surprisingly sturdy.

 

[Matt2023]

Learnt my first lesson about warping/bed adhesion today. Cover for a fused power/ground distro block in ASA. From what I'm reading i done everything wrong to make it lift. No raft, no enclosure preheat, extra topshell thickness, questionable design choices, default speeds, wrong infill.

 

[Matt2023]

Attempt number 2 (on top if not obvious) come out perfectly no warping.
Design change. Scooped the interior roof instead of a uniform 4mm thickness.
Preheat chamber for 1 hour.
10mm brim, 15% gyroid infill instead of 25% triangle and slower printing speed.

 

[Matt2023]

Using ASA to do some smaller parts and started to fiddle with bed temps and how long i wait before printing, to find my print head flinging the part around.
Used the same settings, but this time with a adhesive spray, stayed put and didn't even fall straight off once it cooled liked my previous prints have done.
Still nervous about 8 inch adapters I have to print soonish, might rethink my filament choice.

 

[Matt2023]

I find ASA easier to print. I use the same settings as ABS.
The key is a good first layer and more importantly a good environment.
If you don't have an enclosure and a thermometer get one. Keep the enclosure at 100-110F and leave the part until it naturally cools, especially large parts. I have ruined some prints removing them while they were still warm, causing them to bend.

Yeah using a P1S, texture PEI plate, at 50% speed. Bambu ASA with their profile with bed up at 100C.
Printing with a brim, gyroid infill and concentric layers.
If it fails it's always the same, corners peel up, found concentric and gyroid help minimise that.
Filament feeds from the dryer, which i turn on about 8hrs before i start.
Learnt the hard way about letting it cool naturally.

Variable i was playing with was how long i heat my enclosure with the bed before printing, didn't think to just grab a thermometer.

 

[Matt2023]

i am a 100% fill abs guy for sure

Can you pass on a thanks to whoever puts up all the audiotec fischer models.

So solid adapters? What sort of settings and filament if you dont mind me asking?

I was thinking of doing mine in 2 hollow-ish pieces that either interlock or I join with an epoxy milkshake so I can have them solid with an oem style rainguard inside the door without having to use a bunch of support.

 

[Matt2023]

RX2 pro terminal protection for Emma…

you can also see the clip on cover for the Dsp wiring/plug in the bottom right…

I had planned on doing some full length end caps for my amps, but those add some food for thought.

 

[Matt2023]

Made a little prototype conductor mount. Good enough and out of sight enough i probably wont make another. Retained with a captive nut and M6 bolt. Bambu ASA

 

[Matt2023]

Yep, this kept going for several hours. Just tried to get the blob off the shroud, unfortunately it's poly-carbonate and has a temp rating just as high or higher than what ever the shroud is made of. It stated softening before the blob. I was able to get the outside to soften, but can't get to the center. Too thick. The shroud just fell apart from the heat. New one was $20, so I have it on the way. The hotend and that side of the bed is toast, but already have spares. About an $80 failure. I was making something cool also.

View attachment 486747

Made me think of fossiled dinosaur poo, so BlobOfAncientBirdTurd?

 

[Matt2023]

Adapter and a water guard for inside the door for a Lexus RC to suit Helix W200. Printed on a P1S with bambu ASA CF.
Never occurred to me just how much quicker prints would be with a larger nozzle, hardened 0.6 instead of the 0.4 that came with it.

 

[Matt2023]

That inspired me to stop procrastinating over my dash mid modelling. Tried my hand at photogrammy of the oem dash mid covers, using meshroom.
Total noob at working with mesh and im sure with some better photos and know how could have gotten a much better result.
Still, gave me a mesh that I managed to clean up, took a couple of sections and ended up with something I probably could have done better in half the time just tracing a photo.
Gonna have a go at scanning the dash area itself tommorow, if I get a usable mesh I can then design to fit in that space, rather then trying to copy the part that goes in there.

 

[Matt2023]

Was making some adventurous designs, particularly with the tweeter, decided to give the easy way a go first.
Ran out of filament while prototyping, grabbed the cheapest filament which was some silk on clearence. Generic silk profile, .6 nozzle and these things are ugly 🤣
I'm in for a world of pain if I ever decide I want to make pretty things, these will be done in ASA and the visible half covered in grill cloth, hiding the tweeter.

 

[Matt2023]

Thank you!! All done using freeCAD, I imagine anyone with actual modelling skills would have an aneurysm if they saw my workflow.

2 part was the only way i could see to do it and have it feel secure enough for me, without modifying factory part, or recreating the factory clip points, which I've modelled and brought oem clips for, but this was simpler.
Have the option to do the mid like the tweeter/oem part, mount the mid, have the cover clip in oem. Might explore this if I want to get the mid more on axis later on.
Bottom half is just like any other adapter, measure bolt holes, extrude, a revolve then a couple boolean cuts once the top half was done.
Most complicated part of the bottom is the 4 posts for the threaded inserts.

Played with meshes from photogrammy, but all I really needed was the outside shape of the part. The top surface is not the same curvature as the oem part, so in the end I just needed the outline which I got from just carefully measuring it and a couple of test prints (with measuring features/landmarks) to fine tune
As I'm not interfacing with the dash where the oem cover does, only my 2 part bit, it really simplified the underside.
Once I got the angles between the 2 pieces correct, I positioned the mid mounting ring on the grill, then used surfaces to blend it in to the flat shape.
Hardest part was the redesign to make the grill half easy to print.
Pic should show the angle between the two halves a bit better, mid is vertical with the bottom piece, tweeter on a 15 degree angle

 

[Matt2023]

Had to start from scratch for my drivers dash setup, while the shape looks the same at a glance and the OEM speaker is the same, there is significantly more angle/curves in it, so a simple mirror of passenger side was way off.

Is also closer to the glass, so going to redesign it so the cover clips in and speakers are complelty hidden. I was avoiding trying to nail picking up the oem mounting clips, but thinking one step further i have my own piece under there i can just clip into.