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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I don't know the first thing about car audio but I've been lurking here and searching the forums to get a clue. I'm grateful there's a dumb question forum. I don't mind wrenching, and I'm not clueless about electronics in general.

I'm planning a system for my '98 Tacoma extended cab: comps, sub, mono-amp, sound deadening. I have an Alpine CDA-9856 head unit that I'm not crazy about, but it'll have to stay until I can afford something better, which may be a while. Think budget in all this.

My goal is not competition-level sound and my priorities are heavily SQ over volume/thump.

Comps: I'm leaning toward an Infinity system, either the 6.5" Reference 6030cs or the 5.25" Kappa 50.9cs. If I can figure out how to get the 6.5" Kappa 60.9cs in the door, then I'll probably go that way. I'd probably need a new mount in the door and a new grill for the door panel and I'm not sure how to do either. The tweets I'd like to put either on the windshield frame or the triangular panels at front-bottom of the windows (what are the right names for those locations?). No clue how to mount them cleanly without fabbing fiberglass, which I'd like to avoid.

Sub: I have a family (read child's car seat) and need both back seats and the storage underneath, so I'm thinking I can make a small sealed box to go between the rear seats. I like what I've read here about the Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO, especially given it's small enclosure requirements. I'd welcome any suggestions for a design that'll sound good and work well in the space. I need to retain the ability to tilt the front seats back for road-side naps on long trips -- I live out west and spend a lot of time on lonely roads.

Amp: Haven't even started looking. I'm pretty sure I can get away with a mono that'll fit under a seat and just run the comps off the HU for now.

Sound deadening: Probably going for Raamat BXT II and Ensolite foam everywhere but the roof. The truck is lifted 3" and has 33" off-road tires, and I spend a lot of time on gravel roads, so a lot of sound deadening is needed. Sometimes I resort to wearing noise-canceling headphones while driving :-(. I'd welcome suggestions about how to proceed with the materials, i.e. how thick, where to save, where to add extra.

Thanks for having a dumb question forum.
 

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I have a similar setup in my '99 Taco.

Alpine HU
Diamond D6 6-1/2" components
Diamond D3 8" sub in the back
Amps under the seats

To mount the 6-1/2's you'll need to fab some mdf adapter plates. I think I did an adapter out of 3/4" MDF, then a 1/2" mdf spacer ring. I then had to space the front window track back ~1/4" with a thick washer. I did have to trim a few internal supports of the factory speaker grill to fit the spacers/mids, but now the install is hidden behind the door cards. My tweets are surface mounted on the Sail panels (triangular panel at front/top of doorcard)

The sub is in a fiberglass box taking up the jack storage compartment. With some of the newer shallow 10's, I'm sure you could fit one of those inside. I then lay the seat over the sub and put whatever I want on top with minimal loss of SQ/level.

I used BXT on the doorskins, floor, & back wall. I then removed the vapor barrier in the doors and sealed off all openings with BXT and a layer of ensolite on the back of the door panel.

Let me know if I can help, I did it in stages, but it wasn't too difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your response, VWTlm.

That doesn't sound too bad. The only part I'd be concerned about is pushing the window track back 1/4". That didn't seem to strain anything?

How does the sub enclosure fit in the jack compartment? Did you pull the compartment frame out, put in the enclosure and then replace the frame over it? I've considered building a box that would replace that whole frame, dedicating one side for the sub and keeping the other for storage.

Any chance you'd be willing to post a couple pics?

G
 

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Okay, I don't know the first thing about car audio but I've been lurking here and searching the forums to get a clue. I'm grateful there's a dumb question forum. I don't mind wrenching, and I'm not clueless about electronics in general.

I'm planning a system for my '98 Tacoma extended cab: comps, sub, mono-amp, sound deadening. I have an Alpine CDA-9856 head unit that I'm not crazy about, but it'll have to stay until I can afford something better, which may be a while. Think budget in all this.

My goal is not competition-level sound and my priorities are heavily SQ over volume/thump.

Comps: I'm leaning toward an Infinity system, either the 6.5" Reference 6030cs or the 5.25" Kappa 50.9cs. If I can figure out how to get the 6.5" Kappa 60.9cs in the door, then I'll probably go that way. I'd probably need a new mount in the door and a new grill for the door panel and I'm not sure how to do either. The tweets I'd like to put either on the windshield frame or the triangular panels at front-bottom of the windows (what are the right names for those locations?). No clue how to mount them cleanly without fabbing fiberglass, which I'd like to avoid.

You'll probably need to pull the inner door panel off and measure how much mounting depth you have, and then look for some speakers that will fit that depth, or use a mounting ring/baffle made from mdf. I use cheap plastic cutting boards from wally world. Crutchfield has a good guide to determine what size/depth will fit, but it may tell you only 5x7 or 6x9's will fit, not true, use the mounting ring and good to go. Where you indicate mounting the tweets is usually called a "sail panel", like on a sail boat. Alot of tweeters have different mounting options that come with the set, so it could just be running the wires, cutting a single 1" hole or whatever size tweets you get, and mount using the hardware provided. I'm not knocking your selection of comps listed, just don't know the specs or how they sound. Don't buy from Crutchfield, much better deals available elsewhere unless you don't mind paying a few more $$.

Sub: I have a family (read child's car seat) and need both back seats and the storage underneath, so I'm thinking I can make a small sealed box to go between the rear seats. I like what I've read here about the Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO, especially given it's small enclosure requirements. I'd welcome any suggestions for a design that'll sound good and work well in the space. I need to retain the ability to tilt the front seats back for road-side naps on long trips -- I live out west and spend a lot of time on lonely roads.

Amp: Haven't even started looking. I'm pretty sure I can get away with a mono that'll fit under a seat and just run the comps off the HU for now.

You could find a 4 channel amp for not much more $$ and amp the fronts on channels 1 & 2, bridge 3&4 for the sub, same amount of work for the most part.

If you run the front comps off the HU, look for some efficient comps with a sensitivity rating of 90db or better, you'll still get good sound w/o having an amp. Focal, Hertz, and others make very efficient speakers, so try and audition them, but it depends on what sounds good to YOU. I have Focal 165 A1's running off my OEM HU, love how the woofers sound, but the tweets can be bright/harsh on some songs and depends upon the volume as well. To avoid having to cut/mount the seperate tweets in the sail panels, you could consider co-ax speakers, these have the woofer and tweeter all in one location, a simpler/easier install but may not produce the results you want.

Sound deadening: Probably going for Raamat BXT II and Ensolite foam everywhere but the roof. The truck is lifted 3" and has 33" off-road tires, and I spend a lot of time on gravel roads, so a lot of sound deadening is needed. Sometimes I resort to wearing noise-canceling headphones while driving :-(. I'd welcome suggestions about how to proceed with the materials, i.e. how thick, where to save, where to add extra.

I have used the BXT II, like the end result but it will NOT get rid of the gravel road noise you mention. BXT II reduces the vibations in the door skins, and prevents the metal/plastic parts from flexing to some extent. It will not sound proof your truck. Do a search for sound deadener on this site or click on the secondskin logo you see everywhere here for more info. Look over some of the build logs here and other sites, and you get more info on what various people have done, some have really gotten serious about sound deadening, others do not so much. Current theory is to use a little BXTII or whatever, some 2nd skin sludge, tiles, closed cell foam, yada yada yada. It really depends on your goals.

You mention a budget system, and nothing wrong with that, but if you'll mention a $$ amount you have to spend on equipment only (comps, sub, amp) people can make some good recommedations where you might get some top shelf stuff (used) for less than the budget (depending on your budget). The more info you provide, the more people will try and help you out. Don't forget you will need some wiring for the install as well when doing the budget.

Thanks for having a dumb question forum.

Comps: I'm leaning toward an Infinity system, either the 6.5" Reference 6030cs or the 5.25" Kappa 50.9cs. If I can figure out how to get the 6.5" Kappa 60.9cs in the door, then I'll probably go that way. I'd probably need a new mount in the door and a new grill for the door panel and I'm not sure how to do either. The tweets I'd like to put either on the windshield frame or the triangular panels at front-bottom of the windows (what are the right names for those locations?). No clue how to mount them cleanly without fabbing fiberglass, which I'd like to avoid.

You'll probably need to pull the inner door panel off and measure how much mounting depth you have, and then look for some speakers that will fit that depth, or use a mounting ring/baffle made from mdf. I use cheap plastic cutting boards from wally world. Crutchfield has a good guide to determine what size/depth will fit, but it may tell you only 5x7 or 6x9's will fit, not true, use the mounting ring and good to go. Where you indicate mounting the tweets is usually called a "sail panel", like on a sail boat. Alot of tweeters have different mounting options that come with the set, so it could just be running the wires, cutting a single 1" hole or whatever size tweets you get, and mount using the hardware provided. I'm not knocking your selection of comps listed, just don't know the specs or how they sound. Don't buy from Crutchfield, much better deals available elsewhere unless you don't mind paying a few more $$.

Sub: I have a family (read child's car seat) and need both back seats and the storage underneath, so I'm thinking I can make a small sealed box to go between the rear seats. I like what I've read here about the Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO, especially given it's small enclosure requirements. I'd welcome any suggestions for a design that'll sound good and work well in the space. I need to retain the ability to tilt the front seats back for road-side naps on long trips -- I live out west and spend a lot of time on lonely roads.

Amp: Haven't even started looking. I'm pretty sure I can get away with a mono that'll fit under a seat and just run the comps off the HU for now.

You could find a 4 channel amp for not much more $$ and amp the fronts on channels 1 & 2, bridge 3&4 for the sub, same amount of work for the most part.

If you run the front comps off the HU, look for some efficient comps with a sensitivity rating of 90db or better, you'll still get good sound w/o having an amp. Focal, Hertz, and others make very efficient speakers, so try and audition them, but it depends on what sounds good to YOU. I have Focal 165 A1's running off my OEM HU, love how the woofers sound, but the tweets can be bright/harsh on some songs and depends upon the volume as well. To avoid having to cut/mount the seperate tweets in the sail panels, you could consider co-ax speakers, these have the woofer and tweeter all in one location, a simpler/easier install but may not produce the results you want.

Sound deadening: Probably going for Raamat BXT II and Ensolite foam everywhere but the roof. The truck is lifted 3" and has 33" off-road tires, and I spend a lot of time on gravel roads, so a lot of sound deadening is needed. Sometimes I resort to wearing noise-canceling headphones while driving :-(. I'd welcome suggestions about how to proceed with the materials, i.e. how thick, where to save, where to add extra.

I have used the BXT II, like the end result but it will NOT get rid of the gravel road noise you mention. BXT II reduces the vibations in the door skins, and prevents the metal/plastic parts from flexing to some extent. It will not sound proof your truck. Do a search for sound deadener on this site or click on the secondskin logo you see everywhere here for more info. Look over some of the build logs here and other sites, and you get more info on what various people have done, some have really gotten serious about sound deadening, others do not so much. Current theory is to use a little BXTII or whatever, some 2nd skin sludge, tiles, closed cell foam, yada yada yada. It really depends on your goals.

You mention a budget system, and nothing wrong with that, but if you'll mention a $$ amount you have to spend on equipment only (comps, sub, amp) people can make some good recommedations where you might get some top shelf stuff (used) for less than the budget (depending on your budget). The more info you provide, the more people will try and help you out. Don't forget you will need some wiring for the install as well when doing the budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
jimp,

Thanks for your detailed response. This forum is clearly going to have a huge influence on my build. I'll take your advise to post my budget here. I'll be buying from Parts Express, this forum's classifieds, eBay, wherever I can find a good deal on good equipment.

Is there anything I should really buy new?

Total: $700

Comps: $150
Sub & Enclosure: $150
Sound deadening: $200
Amp: $150
Wiring: $50 *I have left-over solid copper from wiring my house: AWG 12 & 10. Anything wrong with that?

I found some factory sail panels on eBay that are from a '97 4Runner. Does anyone know whether they'll snap right into my '98 Tacoma or what's required to make them fit? I'm also wondering what size tweets they'll accommodate; I suppose they might not fit any decent ones.

Your suggestion to pull the door panel and measure the mounting depth has probably clarified why Crutchfield would say some 6.5s fit and others don't. The amount that I can shim out the mounting bracket is obviously limited by the clearance to the inner door panel. Can I push that a little further by cutting out the plastic factory grill out from the door panel and using an aftermarket grill, which I'd guess might come with the speakers?

I haven't had a chance to compare speakers yet, but I'm moving for school to an area with more audio shops (Las Cruces, NM - near El Paso) where I can check them out in a few weeks.
 

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buying new vs used depends on whether you can find what fits your needs/budget in the time frame you have, and if you feel comfortable buying used. Be careful of scammers, etc. as usual. I didn't buy used, but didn't buy anything top shelf, just some good speakers to start out with (IMO) and went from there.

Not sure about using the solid wire, it would probably be difficult to work in the nooks/crannies of the truck, but you're the one doing it not me. Some use welding wire for the main power supply, but I'm right in front of you in the noob line, so....

If you can list what equipment you are considering, like specific models, etc. then more knowledgable people here will offer other/better value suggestions, whether it be comps, amps, sub, etc., There are lots of people on here who know what amp is ok to buy used and which is not, same for all the stuff you need.

Look over some of the older posts by people looking for suggestions on ?, and see what the responses are, etc. people are always asking for opinions on this or that here, so search for what you like, and see what the consensus is, you might find out you like good stuff or it may not be so good, and go from there. This is a learning forum, no one will TELL you what to do, they will give you advice, conflicting at times, but then you have to figure out what applies to your install, and go from there. It's YOUR system/install/build, no one else's.
 
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