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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, I know I'm reaching pretty far here... But I'm looking to install a nice sounding system in my BMW E28 M5. The last component I need is a capable 4 inch component set for the front stage. I will not consider hacking up anything to make larger drivers fit as I want the car to remain looking as factory as possible.

Here are the teeny tiny locations 1988 though was good enough:



and with the factory speaker out:




The other components in my system are:
Denon DCT A-100 head unit
BRAX X2400.2 4 channel amp
2 ea Alumapro Alchemy 12" subs that will go under the rear seat.

I also have both and Arc Audio PEQ and and KEQ5 that I might use if needed.


So, with the parameters I have to work with, what do you pro's think would compliment my current equipment?
 

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My son has an '86 and with a 3/4" spacer in the kicks we were able to flush in 6.5" drivers without any cutting. They sound great. Just something to consider.

As far as 4" speakers as mid/midbasses in a two way I am no help. IMO there is just not enough cone area & excursion to make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My son has an '86 and with a 3/4" spacer in the kicks we were able to flush in 6.5" drivers without any cutting. They sound great. Just something to consider.

As far as 4" speakers as mid/midbasses in a two way I am no help. IMO there is just not enough cone area & excursion to make it work.
That is my thoughts as well, not enough cone area. On the other hand, my old 1990 4runner had 4's in the dash with a small enclosure. I put some boston acoustic pro components in to replace the blown stock stuff, and the little speakers produced MUCH more noise than I was expecting. I'm sure most of it had to do with the built in enclosure, but the surprise was nice none the less.

Would happen to have a photo of your sons install? I'm worried about the glove box not being able to open if a spacer is installed.
 

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I'd say Hybrids L4SE, but honestly.. I think it would go to waste way down there.

E28's really did get the shaft with the front speaker provisions. Factory sail tweeter location is alright.. but the midbass? lol...

You would be best served building some custom kick panels to house a 6.5" driver, which won't permanently modify the car if thats a true concern. Given how few E28 M5's came to the states, and how many are(nt) left I can't say as that I blame you for that.
 

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My son has an '86 and with a 3/4" spacer in the kicks we were able to flush in 6.5" drivers without any cutting. They sound great. Just something to consider.

As far as 4" speakers as mid/midbasses in a two way I am no help. IMO there is just not enough cone area & excursion to make it work.
The 12mu is the only thing I can think of based on it's extension.
 

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As mentioned there is no substitute for cone area. A 4" is just not going to cut it below ~150hz. I'd rather cut the subs at the back lower and get the fronts to do 60-70 and up.

If you can fit a 6.5" shallow mount or even a 5.25", then definately go for it. You can even look at a 4x6 oval like this one.
 

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As mentioned there is no substitute for cone area. A 4" is just not going to cut it below ~150hz. I'd rather cut the subs at the back lower and get the fronts to do 60-70 and up.

If you can fit a 6.5" shallow mount or even a 5.25", then definately go for it. You can even look at a 4x6 oval like this one.
I agree....I would not bother with spending a bunch of money on something like a 4" Scan 12M. With just a little bit of attention to detail, a custom OEM looking panel could be made (preserving the original OEM panel) to house a shallow driver. Not sure if a 6 1/2" would fit but maybe something like the HERTZ SPACE 6 components might be worth looking into?



Hertz Spezial Car Stereo Space System 6K25 200 Watt Neu | eBay

Hertz Spezial Car Stereo Space K 6 Light 160 Watt 4 Ohm | eBay
 

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uhm whats wrong with your doors? i mean kicks are a rattle free option but doors aren't that bad if hacking isn't your option, your just creating problems where their aren't none? the good old KISS method always works. keep it simple stupid ^_^
 

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uhm whats wrong with your doors? i mean kicks are a rattle free option but doors aren't that bad if hacking isn't your option, your just creating problems where their aren't none? the good old KISS method always works. keep it simple stupid ^_^
Cutting the doors or door panels would be a big no no.

You have to understand the owners car is a collectors item, only 1,238 examples of the E28 M5 were produced for and imported for the United States. Of those only 30 examples were produced with the extended leather interior in Black, which the OP has. All others came with the standard natur (tan) leather.

Of those numbers how many still exist? Even the very youngest examples are just 3 days shy of 24 years old. This is a LOW PRODUCTION HAND BUILT classic car.

Sorry, I'm a classic BMW nut :)


I just noticed the OP is from Germany. My point still stands, infact even more so as Germany received less than 800 examples counting the LHD and RHD models together.
 

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uhm whats wrong with your doors? i mean kicks are a rattle free option but doors aren't that bad if hacking isn't your option, your just creating problems where their aren't none? the good old KISS method always works. keep it simple stupid ^_^
He has a limited 1988 BMW M5 (E28). There are no OEM door speakers. The K.I.S.S. method would be to put 4"x6" drivers in the kicks. :(



Why is it that intergation of larger speakers has to be thought of as a "HACK" job? What is wrong with using the OEM kicks to make a mold? Then store them away safely. Then use to mold to make some nice kick panels like the ones on this guys '88 M5:


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/206328/1988-bmw-m5/page-2

Looks better than OEM to me....well it should sound a heck of a lot better. :)


I am a bit of a fan of the older Bimmers myself. I always wanted a 1995 540i SPORT (E34).
 

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Here are three options.

First, if you want a lot of output, Faital sells a four inch driver with a very high sensitivity. You can get it from US Speakers. (I am too lazy to look up the part number.) Due to Hoffman's Iron Law, you can easily get very very loud with a 4" driver if you're willing to sacrifice low end extension. So the Faital is a good option if you can stick some midbasses in the car somewhere. You'll be lucky to get the Faital down to 100hz. But it will get loud.

Second, if you don't care about maximum output, go to CreativeSound.ca and grab a pair of Adire Audio 4" woofers. Again, I'm too lazy to look up the part number. The Adire 4" drivers will easily do 40hz. Due to Hoffman's Iron Law, they aren't very sensitive. So they won't get remotely as loud as the Faital.

The third option is the trickiest. You find a 4" woofer with a huuuuuuge voice coil. These aren't cheap or common, but there are a few. By going this route, you're basically getting the best of both worlds. Do not go this route unless you have a lot of power. These woofers are totally pointless if you have less than two hundred watts per side, because big ass voice coils aren't cheap. In this camp I would put drivers like the JBL 400GTI and a few models from Morel. Check out the spec sheet and look for the biggest voice coil possible, and bring a big amp. The 400GTI is also sold in the 408GTI component set, and it is also very similar to some JBL woofers that date back to the sixties. It's like the Porsche 911 of small midbasses, it's a design that's evolved over decades, but it ain't cheap.

Hope that helps. If you can find the space, there's a member with a 508GTI set in the classifieds here.

Remember, due to Hoffman's Iron Law there's no way to get low and loud in a conventional enclosure unless you use a driver with low sensitivity, so you gotta bring a big amp if you want to have your cake and eat it too.
 

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i had a kinda simalar issue with my E34 its not as rare by any means its a 535is in oz which for oz is a little rare but not bad i ended up cutting about 4-5mm of metal properly to fit in the right speakers i wanted and then used a bit of coverd mdf routed to the same as the rest of the car door jam coverd it and it worked great

couldnt get any angle becuase of the accelorator but that was cool you should be able to get a 6" in the maybe not a 6.5" but a 6" there are sum companys that make 6.5s that are only 6" if you take my meaning otherwise just put the space in or make an 16mm mdf panel over it and put in a full size 6.5 it will lok great

you wont get much angle but if you use a chunky enuf speaker with enuf balls and its of good enuf quality then you should be able to angle your tweets out thru the vents or make a small detachable pod to go on the dash say with velcro or sumthing or even do an A piller just buy two a pillers from a doner car and use them instead of originals and youll be right i ended up with a fibreglass pod on the door aswll as the kick and now have 2 full size Audiosystem german made HX series dust 6.5 drives one in the kick then one angled in the door and a 4" hx dust above that and the tweeter on the dash which still needs to be rectifyed as the socalled pro cut holes out of the original speaker grill and then hot glued the tweets in but like the rest of the car this socalled por did ill have to redo it and fix it

but never mind parts for those cars arent as rare as you would think and the normal bits from the normal 535i will fit on to it aswell or if you go a neo mag 6.5 you should be able to get it to go into the hole thats there aleady good luck mate and keep that beasty nice and well loved and i mean a 3mm slice of metal in a kick isnt alot to worry about really we took and e30 2.5 evo m3 interior out and turned it into a drift car and never took off the original blister gurads to replace them with the fibreglass ones now they are all dented but meh never mind if it wont pnael beat you buy another set
Ren
xMplar
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cutting the doors or door panels would be a big no no.

You have to understand the owners car is a collectors item, only 1,238 examples of the E28 M5 were produced for and imported for the United States. Of those only 30 examples were produced with the extended leather interior in Black, which the OP has. All others came with the standard natur (tan) leather.

Of those numbers how many still exist? Even the very youngest examples are just 3 days shy of 24 years old. This is a LOW PRODUCTION HAND BUILT classic car.

Sorry, I'm a classic BMW nut :)


I just noticed the OP is from Germany. My point still stands, infact even more so as Germany received less than 800 examples counting the LHD and RHD models together.
Hi Stuck, nice to see some classic BMW guys on here! I'm actually in Colorado now, I was stationed in Germany for 5 years, but left at the beginning of this year... looks like I need to update my profile.

Sadly, recently another black on black M5 was in an accident down in Texas :(

Why is it that intergation of larger speakers has to be thought of as a "HACK" job? What is wrong with using the OEM kicks to make a mold? Then store them away safely. Then use to mold to make some nice kick panels like the ones on this guys '88 M5:


Looks better than OEM to me....well it should sound a heck of a lot better. :)


I am a bit of a fan of the older Bimmers myself. I always wanted a 1995 540i SPORT (E34).
I've never been a huge fan of kick panels that protrude out. First and foremost my car must be a drivers car, and that means unrestricted use of the dead pedal. On the passenger side, I've seen kick pods that prevent the glove box from opening fully, another item that I'd like to not have to worry about (Ipod will go in there).

Although I do agree on both points, those kick panels do look great, and 540i M-sports are super cool! While I was in Germany, I had a 3.8L M5... my god that thing had big stones!

I've been thinking that custom kick panels finished in black leather to match the rest of the console would look pretty neat, and not look to out of the ordinary... again, my goal here is for it to look as close to factory as possible, but have some kick ass sound!
 

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What about something like this.
[264-715 : Bohlender Graebener Neo10 Planar Transducer]
Bohlender Graebener Neo10

[Click to Zoom]
[Click to Zoom]

[Click to Zoom]


Bohlender Graebener Neo10 Planar Transducer
 
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