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I am always one for keeping functionality and stealth factor to a maximum when building a car, which often involves trying to fit a large number of components in the stock space in the trunk. But even that has its limits, and when the customer presented his idea on his 2011 Camaro SS, i have to admit i had my doubts that it was possible...:)

lets visit the goals set:

1. Achieve a nice level of sound quality utilizing stock mounting locations and signal source

2. NOT A SINGLE HOLE drilled in metal, zero pieces of metal cut or trimmed, not even for rivet nuts, meaning everything had to be somehow secured via oem hardware

3. fit 3 amps, signal processor, two subs and all the accompanied wiring and enclosure in the trunk without sacficing an ounce of trunk spare. Only thing removable was the spare tire.

so, normally, this isnt a big issue, and the camaro's spare tire well is pretty large, however, there was one big problem with that, and that is, a decent sized battery sits smack dab in the middle of the spare tire well :)

here is a picture to show what i am talking about, pulled from the web:



hence the title of this thread, i really felt we were pushing it trying to cram all that gear around the battery in the well, but Joey was somewhat confident in being able to pull it off, so off we went.

the car's stock signal source was retained, so nothing to show there.when trying to run speaker wires into the door, i encountered an issue that i guess i sorta knew about going in. that is, the oem molex was completely filled. the limitation of not being able to drill and metal means running our own separate loom and tube was out of question. I talked it over with the customer and in the end came up with a compromise:

I would run a very short length of new speaker wire outside of the oem hose, but dive into the hose right away. every effort would be taken to ensure the exposed length of wire is protected and as invisible as possible.

there is a bit of empty spare above the molex plug for the wires,m in this case, two pairs, to go through, what i did was slice a thin hole int he factory rubber hose, heatshrinked the length of wire that will be exposed, dabbed a little bit of silcone around the opening, and passed the wire through. here ist he end result with the entire plug removed from the kick panel area.



it isnt the preferred method of course, but under the limitation i think it came out pretty good :) here is the plug back in place, with the two sets of speaker wire ran:



since no additional holes were to be drilled for rivet nuts, i utlized a Bestkits GM spacer that uses the same snap in and single bolt mounting system as beforee, and made a stack of spacer rings to mimic the oem mounting location:



the rings were coated with several coats of truk bedliner to protect them against the elements, and the secured to the bestkits plastic adapter:





this hole assembly was then secured to the car, the outter door skin recieved a few pieces of balckhole tile, and then adapter itself was sealed against the door with STP bomb damper:





the heavy factory sound proofing material was quite sturdy and thick so it was left in place. i then secured the illusion audio Carbon C6 midbass to the spacer:





i fccused my attention next on the door card, which recieved a combo layer of Focal BAM XXXL and Blackhole foil damper:



this whole process was of course repeated on the passenger side:















the tweeter assembly was relatively straightfoward, involving taking apart the factory mounting pod, removing the stock tweeter, and securing the Illusion Carbon tweeters, they barely fit, but they fit :)





next comes a series of wiring pics showing the bundle as they travel from the front of the vehicle to the rear, only speaker wires were ran with a backup remote turn on wire incase we could not find a good source in the back, the speaker wires from the driver side cross over under the back seat so all of them enter the trunk on the passenger side:





















as they entire the trunk, they are ziptied to stock loom, the mosconi 4to6 DSP is mounted to a board that is secured in a empty space to oem mounting points, and the rca cables join the speaker wires in the run to the spare tire well:







the customer supplied me with a T harness with RCA adapters soldered in place, this i plugged inline with the oem amp, and ran a pair of rca cables and remote turn on wire to the DSP and the spare tire well:



here you see all the signal wires going into the spare tire well from the passenger side, running along the bottom next to oem wiring and then pops out the front side infront of the battery. this is so the enclosure and amp rack can be built above it:



here is the simple mounting board for the dsp, the back foamed to prevent any rattles:





to gain maximum bass response in the cabin, the customer came up with a pretty cool idea. he wanted to make sure the back up sensor beepers, which is routed through the oem rear speaker. was retained, so he instructed me to cut out the midbass speaker but keep the bridge mounted speaker above it which is used for the beeper, the result was pretty cool and works perfectly:





the speakers were them mounted back in place, and the rear deck recieved some BAM XXXL:

 

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so moving on to the finished trunk. again the goal was for 100 percent stock appearance, so here is the view with oem carpet in place, as yo can see, nothing at all visible:



here is what normally greets you when you remove the carpet, a piece of fiberboard cover is secured by a mounting cap that threads onto a stud, this secures the spare tire.



in our version, it looks basically the same except the oem cover has been replaced with a vented one made from MDF and mesh and carpeted:





unscrew the cup, then you are ready to lift it off:



with the cover off, you see just how jam packed everything is under there. two audiomobile elite 2208s sit in a sealed enclosure trimmed by a decorative vinyl spacer with the chevy emblem and ridges, while three arc audio KS mini amps at upfront, mounted virtually the only way they can. a KS125.2 powers the tweeter, a KS125.4 is bridged on the midbass, and a 500.1 powers the subs. the entire well structure is carpted and goes around the battery, which has its own cover made out of mdf and carpet. it is not secured to the car with any bolts but is held down securely by the top cover.







the challenge for me was to some how wire this thing, everything was so tight and i had to find places for distribution blocks and all the wiring. took me a few hours but eventually i got it figured out. this is with the battery cover removed and you can see everthing laid out. not really meant to be pretty but basically functional and easy access. to remove the battery, you simply unhook the main power and ground cables from the battery, lift and pivot this top rack out of the way, which is held down by velcro (and also byt he top cover.







now lets get to some build pics of this contraption. Joey drew out the shape needed to go around the battery, and then began securing pieces of mdf top and bottom so it would sit in the well completely flat and uses all avaiable space:







next, the whole area was tapped off and plastic sheeting laid down and the fiberglassing begain:









after the well cured and was trimmed, boards matching the KS mini amps were made up and molded into the front part of the well, while the decorative trim spacer, with its layer of vinyl for raised effects was built and test fitted









the spacer was then vinyled:





next some final test fitting and trimming took place and this is the end result:







next the entire structure was removed from the vehicle, here you can see the various pieces of mdf that forms with the shape of the spare tire well and goes over the oem and aftermarklet wiring and hardware: the sides were blended smooth in the back from the stepped ridges of MDF:









 

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the outter shell was then painted black:







and the entire inside was covered in carpet via several steps, the subwoofer wiring was ran at this time as well:









at this point, i took over and started wiring up the amps, when they were done, all the wires can come into the battery area via a slot Joey had cut. as you can see, quite a bit of wiring:





a final look at the battery and bare spare tire well before the structure went back in the car:



finally, a few shots of the various pieces before and after carpeting.

the rack above the battery:





the battery top cover, with spacers secured to the backside to properly locate it in the correct position each time:







and finally, the top cover, with its vents, before and after:





so thats it :) the sound was pretty good with so many limintations. the stage is nice and high, the center is okay but slightly diffuse perhaps iwth how the oem spot fires into the dash, but width is superb and midbass impact is spot on. the oem signal source was decent, and overall tonality is nicely balanced. the bass was okay, though with only two little 8s in a big car, they arent earth shattering, but it does have decent extension and blends in very well.

though joey was confident going into it, he later commented that if any of the components was any bigger, even perhaps by half an inch, this idea would not have worked...so big kudos to him :)

this was a seemingly simply build but presente several challenges, and i am very pleased to say they were all overcome and the customer's strict limitations were met 100 percent! :)

cheers,

Bing
 

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Awesome job! Thats same car im working on of my own, but much slower process for me working outdoors only on it. How easy were those molex connectors to get out?...not much room in there i noticed...hahaha
 

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Mission Impossible.

The limitations were simply mind boggling yet you pulled it off. The Chevy emblem brings a nice touch.

Nice job guys.
 

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the molexs were easy to pull out from the side, but they are filled, i mean every pin seems filled, at least on this car :) so pretty useless to use it as a wiring pass through itself :)
I will be getting into my doors soon so hopefully i get lucky and have a few empty spots in those molex's but will do what you did if not...thanks.
 

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is there any noise inducted into the system with the battery being next to all the amps and wiring??

when i saw you post this on facebook i couldnt wait to see the end result. i wasnt let down
 

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is there any noise inducted into the system with the battery being next to all the amps and wiring??

when i saw you post this on facebook i couldnt wait to see the end result. i wasnt let down
that was the first thing i tested, before committing to that location, we had the tweeter amp sitting down there wired, up and held the tweeter to our years, once we confirmed there isnt too much interference, we went ahead.

i think the key is gain control, from a EMI standpoint, this is not the ideal location, but always test first :)
 

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So you guys got signal from factory amp ? I am trying to decide on my 2013 equinox if that's the best place for signal is factory amp. Way easier to get to it then back of head.


Love the install ! Looks simple tell you show pics of what is happen and how it all got there
 

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So you guys got signal from factory amp ? I am trying to decide on my 2013 equinox if that's the best place for signal is factory amp. Way easier to get to it then back of head.


Love the install ! Looks simple tell you show pics of what is happen and how it all got there
Got the signal before the amp. Check Subthump. He might have a plug that will work.

 

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Nice work fitting in so much gear. Was the depth on the spacers required to fit the C6 mids? That seems like a lot of spacer for those. Or were you just pushing them out to kill the gap between the mid and the door card?
 

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Nice work fitting in so much gear. Was the depth on the spacers required to fit the C6 mids? That seems like a lot of spacer for those. Or were you just pushing them out to kill the gap between the mid and the door card?
actually, the main reason its spaced out like that is that the rod that attaches the door to the body, when you close it, comes right into the hole on the metal door panel, i mean like literally right behind it. without that spacer, its doubtful even the c6 mid can fit :)
 
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