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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I actually think you guys are rubbing off on me now. I am looking to get a 7" midbass driver. I need one thats close to 50-3.5 kHz, 88db sensitivity, and can handle between 90-120 watts of clean power, PLUS be available in a 4 ohm model. I was looking at the Dayton RS or ES series, but they are all 8ohms only.

Thanks
 

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I really like the Dayton RS 7" Leo has, but I would not play it that high. 2khz would be the highest I would play the 7". But it does have good midbass response.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was hoping to use this driver with my existing Xover unit (passive unit) which is set at a crossover point of 2.8 kHz.

What about Seas Excel series drivers? I am liking those at the moment.
 

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why not try these

http://www.tymphany.com/prodvifa.php

PL18WO09-04

as they seem the closests spec wise to my cdts

(wich I think are awesome, if not costly lol especially for the DIY forum)

from the Vifa PL line (everyone keeps saying they are the same driver you decide , the cdt t/s specs are on on of my cdt post somewhere)
 

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AzGrower said:
Okay I actually think you guys are rubbing off on me now. I am looking to get a 7" midbass driver. I need one thats close to 50-3.5 kHz, 88db sensitivity, and can handle between 90-120 watts of clean power, PLUS be available in a 4 ohm model. I was looking at the Dayton RS or ES series, but they are all 8ohms only.

Thanks
The Peerless CSX is available in a "car" (4ohm) model and otherwise meets your specs. I would be tempted to ignore the 4ohm thing and get the Peerless HDS or the Seas CA18 instead, with the majority of people here likely preferring the Seas and me preferring the Peerless driver.

Regardless of the nominal impedance of a driver, it's folly to expect to be able to plug in a different driver to a crossover. Then again, the "universal" passive crossovers that come with car audio component sets are worthless hacks anyway, so maybe you might not notice a difference. Take the opportunity to rid yourself of that crappy hack passive crossover and either design a new one, get a new one designed for you by someone with good measurement/modeling equipment and great ears, or go active.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DS-21 said:
...or go active.
Thats my plan down the road via my amp's filters
 

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Just curious why does it have to be 4 ohm? You really eliminate all the best choices that way Imho.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cuz for now they will be hooked up to my current xover unit (no matter if its a hack or not). Its a 4 ohm unit. Just for chits & giggless toss me out some nice 7 or 8" midbass drivers that are 6 or 8 ohm. I may change my mind about using the xover unit. I have an extra amp sitting around (Avionixx axa440.4, 75x4) that I was planning to use for this test run. I could use it sooner than I wanted if need be.
 

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I'm not sure I'd even worry about it if that's the issue. The reason being that those passive crossovers aren't designed for your car, or your install... so it's already so far off from the predicted response that it wouldn't matter if you used an 8ohm driver anyways.... either way you're going to need to eq to get a flat response.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
NPDang, I PMed you asking some pricing...can you get me a price for the Seas CA18 7" driver please? Thank you. Also, what do you think a good compliment 3 or 4" driver would be for say a 3 way set. The tweeter is the LPG25. Gracias.
 
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