8+ Blown Tweets in 10 Months??? WHY?

Gains are all set properly, crossover points were all set at or above what the included crossovers had that came with the speakers or what the manufacturer recommended. I know I haven’t been working as an installer since 09, but for the 12 years I did spend doing it every day, plus the other 20 years that I have done it as a hobby and side gig, I never claimed to be or even tried to be one of the fastest guys in the bay, but there might have been one quarter that I didn’t have the lowest rate of service jobs come back, usually by a significant amount. I’ve installed well over 1000 amps, a similar number of speakers and everything else that goes with them… The gains, crossovers, settings etc were the first things that I rechecked after the first speakers died, and they have been rechecked, set, lowered…. I still to this day have to have the “gain controls are not volume or power level adjusters” conversation with people all the time. One buddy always wants his stuff set up so it’s loud, like maxed out at volume 15 out of 30 or 40. For 10 years and at least 6 big systems they have been that way. One tweeter and one old worn out 13w7 is all he has killed and he is all rap all loud all the time. If it was gains or clipping I wouldn’t be here asking for ideas.

Ok I sorta knew that it may go this direction but I’ll list all the other stuff and explain how I set it up.

the owner of the car had previously installed one of those giant screens/android based tablet head unit systems that are becoming more common for newer cars, as his stock dash had two smaller displays, and now he has a giant Tesla type. It’s basically a vehicle specific plug and play that works with the stock amplified 15 or 17 speaker system. Unfortunately no rca outs for any aftermarket add one. Sub amp is a DS18 KO3 3k running either a single ported Ampere Audio Neo 12”, a ported B2 Rampage 12”, 3 B2 Audio Rampage 8”’s ported or his new as of last week Rockford T2 13” I’ve made both a sealed and ported box for. I’ve made all the other boxes as well. He likes to try different subs. And he was doing it with the front speakers to which is why I was pushing him to try the Hertz plus letting me move the tweeters and 3” from the stock door locations to the a-pillar and dash. Electrical is all upgraded. I installed a 260 amp alt, all good 0 guage power grounds with an XS battery under the hood and a XS lithium battery in the trunk. I installed the module for the alternator so it charges all the time and has the voltage control which is typically set at 14.6-14.8, and rarely dips below 14.
I specifically set the tweeter/midrange crossover points slightly higher than what the specific crossovers that came with the speaker set used, or if they were bought as drivers only like the Hertz I set them slightly higher than what the manufacturer recommended. This was set in the DSP. I also set the HP on the amp as a “backup” in case the dsp settings crashed or got changed somehow, and set them about 200hz below the dsp setting. After a couple dead speakers he had me throw in a set of caps on the tweeter leads, which I think are 2.2k at 4 ohm, possibly 2.8k, but by that time I had already gone up close to 3k on the base crossover point also. All are 24db linkwitz. I originally set the amp gains the same way I’ve done it more than 1000 times. One at a time, volume 3 to 4 notches below max, starting at minimum go up to any sign it’s close to clip/distortion, then I back off quite a bit. I always run gains low, like normally it’s hard to find any track that can’t be played all day at max the volume setting. I do know that the owner likes to tinker with settings and stuff but I always check and have never found anything that could be an obvious cause that had been changed. I have checked them with a scope, albeit a cheap one, but never saw any flat spots. I do know that he can play music from the head unit or via Bluetooth from his phone to the head unit or the dsp and he has now also picked up a portable hi-res player that will be hard wired to the Helix and will be what he regularly uses. I thought maybe the different input options could have something to do with it ?? The one area that I don’t have much experience is tuning the more complex dsp systems with multiple input sources as the very first versions were just being released when I quit working with 12 volts to work with 26,000 volts, so while I understand what the different setting and features are, I’m a total noob at being efficient at the setup and tuning portions. Around the same time that I installed the caps on the tweeters we also swapped the Crescendo 6 channel for the current non DSP Audio Control 6 channel, which I believe is rated at 120x6 at 4 ohms. Then last week I pulled the Alpine DSP out and installed the Helix DSP Pro MK2 and Director, which has had us learning a new software system and setup. The current Hertz speakers have been installed for a little over 2 months, and I did the direct amp to tweeter wire at that time, and those tweeters have always been set above 3.5k. Just today I eliminated the stock front tweeter signals that had been used as the source signal for the high frequencies when I originally installed the Alpine a few years ago and now have all the mids and tweets using the rear door speaker output signal from the stock amp. I have both the rear doors and stock sub signals summed as the subwoofer input. I thought that maybe there was some issue with how the dsp’s were connected to the cars system as that’s the one thing I’m not well versed in….