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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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can nearly make your ears bleed without breaking a sweat
If you playing them that loud you may be over powering them. How are you setting the gains? Tweeters don't need to be ran to their rated power to get loud and it's absolutely unnecessary to run them on rated power.

2.5k is also very low for a tweeter that's not designed to play that low.
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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What kind of car is this. I had blown a couple of subs in my Honda due to the speed sensing volume compensation, which turns up the volume while the car is in motion. Even with the gains set properly you could still blow things due to clipping. I didn't even know it was a think until it was too late.... twice. Just a thought...
 

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2018 Honda Accord EXL 2.0 GB 3way doors GB40/10 centre Helix M4dsp/M6 Sundown salt MMats + more
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One at a time, volume 3 to 4 notches below max, starting at minimum go up to any sign it’s close to clip/distortion, then I back off quite a bit. I always run gains low, like normally it’s hard to find any track that can’t be played all day at max the volume setting.
The crescendo is rated 100-200w @4ohm depending on the amp channel used (dirty korean power). Those things put out more than rated power. Then you set gains just below clipping. Tweeters don't need that much power. The Hertz is rated 90RMS, the others probly way less. Audio control 125w and if you set gains the same way... you over powered them.
 

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Imagine how much treble energy would be blasting (compared to remaining freq spectrum) before they blew if your scenario was correct.
This right here was a dead give away. My GB10s are rated 100w but they are no where near 100w they get loud and but no where near make "your ears bleed"

tweeters in the pillars and dash locations they can nearly make your ears bleed without breaking a sweat. After the first 2 or 3 sets blew,
 

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Right? But I think the dude is running big sub power so maybe he needs it to keep up. 🤷🏽‍♂️
 

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Amp gains were right at 1/4 for the tweeters and 3”just over half for the 7” channels. I copied this from Hertz “power rating, 180W Peak (Hi-Pass filtered @ 1,8kHz - 12dB Oct.) which is why I felt going twice as high as the 1.8k with double the slope should be plenty safe, but apparently combining those settings with the amp being pegged at 25% I need to put my tools away forever and never install tweeters again….
Gain knob doesn't work that way. It's not a volume control. Should have used the DMM method with the oscilloscope for the tweeter. Then still turned it down several db at the DSP. Aftert that play music at "full tilt" volume then either turn it up or down at the DSP depending on the desired output. Tweeters don't need alot of power. Then if you are tunning to a curve they'll use way less.
 

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You must have missed the part where I checked them with a scope at the setting they were at, about 1/4 up from minimum, and the first time any signs of distortion or clipping showed up was at or a little above 3/4 to max level. I have set up every system that I’ve done for myself or someone else the same way unless the customer specifically wants something set different, but I normally set them back far enough that the volume can be maxed out with useable sq still. Some guys like to get to 75%, I’ve done several for a guy who I know already that he wants his to be maxed at 1/2 volume. He is the one I’ve been trying for 10 years to understand that lower settings sounds better and cranking up the gains don’t add power.
I'll go ahead and say it again. Gain knob is not a volume knob. You can have it clipping and maxed out at minimum if enough input voltage is applied. You obviously did something wrong and continue to do so every time a tweeter is poped.

Cranking the gain does add power, along with a clipped signal. You came here asking why, and we have told you. If you don't want to belive it, it's on you.
 
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