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i have heard some before, but the dude had like 2 pairs in one door so it sounded horrible, he has no idea what he was doing.
I think retail is like $2600 or something crazy
 

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Nice. Look at the resistors with aluminum heat sinks in the crossovers.

They probably sound great, but there's really no point in spending that kind of cash when you can buy raw frame drivers that measure exceptionally well for less $$$. (ex: Seas Excels, Scan Speak, Peerless, Usher, etc.) Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on JBL. Trust me, when it comes to Pro Audio, I'm a JBL fan boy. But this set doesn't make sense for a car audio DIY'er.
 

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me personally, i'm drooling over that x-over! nice....
 

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Nice. Look at the resistors with aluminum heat sinks in the crossovers.

They probably sound great, but there's really no point in spending that kind of cash when you can buy raw frame drivers that measure exceptionally well for less $$$. (ex: Seas Excels, Scan Speak, Peerless, Usher, etc.) Don't get me wrong, I'm not hating on JBL. Trust me, when it comes to Pro Audio, I'm a JBL fan boy. But this set doesn't make sense for a car audio DIY'er.
In that case, you could say the same for hybrid audios highest line, and rainbow, and hertz, and ect..
 

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In that case, you could say the same for hybrid audios highest line, and rainbow, and hertz, and ect..
I feel the same way about those brands, too. I'd NEVER buy that stuff unless I was buying it used in like new condition for a great price. Not saying it's not great equipment. I'm just not into spending alot of money on speakers because someone put a set together and says they're worth X amount of money.

I wasn't afraid to buy expensive stuff when I was younger. My first car stereo that I purchased about 15 years ago was an MB Quart 3 way component set, 3 JL Audio 10W6's, all Phoenix Gold MS series amps (then I switched to PPI Art series) two Audio Control crossovers, and a rack mount 1/3 octave Alesis eq, and a SONY CDX-U8000. Pretty much the expensive stuff of the time.

But with the resources we have these days (computers and test equipment, etc), it's silly in my opinion to buy a high dollar speaker if we can purchase one of equal or better sound quality for alot less.
 

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I feel the same way about those brands, too. I'd NEVER buy that stuff unless I was buying it used in like new condition for a great price. Not saying it's not great equipment. I'm just not into spending alot of money on speakers because someone put a set together and says they're worth X amount of money.

I wasn't afraid to buy expensive stuff when I was younger. My first car stereo that I purchased about 15 years ago was an MB Quart 3 way component set, 3 JL Audio 10W6's, all Phoenix Gold MS series amps (then I switched to PPI Art series) two Audio Control crossovers, and a rack mount 1/3 octave Alesis eq, and a SONY CDX-U8000. Pretty much the expensive stuff of the time.

But with the resources we have these days (computers and test equipment, etc), it's silly in my opinion to buy a high dollar speaker if we can purchase one of equal or better sound quality for alot less.
In many cases, in order to get better sounding would require you to buy raw drivers, and go active. Many people dont want to go through the hassle of that, so thats when they buy expensive components like these..
 

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In many cases, in order to get better sounding would require you to buy raw drivers, and go active. Many people dont want to go through the hassle of that, so thats when they buy expensive components like these..
Understood. And I agree to an extent. But being we're discussing this subject on this website, we're both aware of the fact that everyone here has access to a ton of information on drivers, setup, installation, and tuning right here. With all the help from the other board members, it's not much hassle. So why pay more?

To each his own, but my advice for car audio would be to buy individual raw frame drivers that test well, and go active. Unless of course, you're into buying brand name items with a proven track record. That's fine and a perfectly understandable reason. I drive a Jag and wear a Rolex so I can't very easily argue against buying expensive, well respected, brand name items. I just feel a little different about budget when it comes to audio.

Just my $.02
 

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I heard them in a yukon that was an sql car that actually sounded really good. I was impressed with their ability to make good sounding volume but didnt get to hear them with the volume down. would be they are super nice. they are the 50th anniversary series.
 

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In that case, you could say the same for hybrid audios highest line, and rainbow, and hertz, and ect..
At least with the JBL's, by comparison, you're getting the advantage of Harman's prodigious R&D. For instance, the spec sheet of these speakers reveals that they have JBL Pro's SFG motor on the woofer. That's the design that ScanSpeak knocked off for their top motor.

I've heard them. I was impressed with them as coaxes (though I don't think they're up to the level of the vintage pre-Coustic KEF Uni-Q's) and considerably less so as separates. If I needed a 6.5-7" coax, I'd probably buy the JBL's (or at least the model right under these in the GTi line) before anything including the Seas H1333 unless budget was the overriding concern.

Are they expensive? Well, yes. It's hard to call them overpriced, though, simply because so many offer so much less for higher prices. With the others you mention, you're basically just buying retreads and rebadges. Overpriced, antequated design, or more often both.
 

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At least with the JBL's, by comparison, you're getting the advantage of Harman's prodigious R&D...........

Are they expensive? Well, yes. It's hard to call them overpriced, though, simply because so many offer so much less for higher prices. With the others you mention, you're basically just buying retreads and rebadges. Overpriced, antequated design, or more often both.
I agree. To add, JBL has a good enough reputation by itself. I don't want to give the impression that I think the JBL's are overpriced. For that price, two tweeters and two mid/woofers both of which are probably VERY high end, and what appears to be a very serious passive crossover is reasonable, assuming they test as well as we would hope for. If the JBL's tested comparably to Scan Speak or Seas Excel drivers, and I was looking to spend some money, I would consider them.

But as it stands, I don't see any testing of those drivers, and by nature, I'm skeptical of everything. If I were going to spend alot on drivers right now, regardless of my liking for JBL, it would be on a pair of Seas Excel mids with cheap seas aluminum tweeters. (which test VERY well) This would put me in the $500 ballpark. Not bad in my opinion for a set of some of the best drivers in the world.
 

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One of the more notable cars with those drivers installed...the Gary Biggs Regal:
http://www.caraudiomag.com/features/cae_0706_biggs_regal_in_car_audio/index.html

Too bad they did not show the reveal pics, this is a very serious install. I still have that June '07 issue. http://www.jbl.com/car/featured/installs/buick.aspx
The install of the kick speakers is robust yet basic in someways but I hear that the imaging was something special.

Reviews :
http://www.pasmag.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=363
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=241&Itemid=1
 

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But as it stands, I don't see any testing of those drivers, and by nature, I'm skeptical of everything. If I were going to spend alot on drivers right now, regardless of my liking for JBL, it would be on a pair of Seas Excel mids with cheap seas aluminum tweeters. (which test VERY well) This would put me in the $500 ballpark. Not bad in my opinion for a set of some of the best drivers in the world.
I agree with you, though I'd never personally use anything but widebanders or coincident/concentric drivers in a nearfield listening environment, home or car.

Besides, the $800 ones are a statement product, with money spent on factors having nothing to do with sound quality such as cosmetics and brand-name crossover parts. (And the Revel-style waveguides.)

While I've not heard them side-to-side, I would bet that the main substantive difference between them and the regular C608GTi MKII (when used as I would use either, as a coax) is that JBL keeps tighter tolerances on the $800 ones than on the ~$350 ones (going by a quick Google price search - I bought my pair for ~$180 at a Tweeter bankruptcy sale, and I'll probably end up using them in home theater rear surrounds at some point). Maybe the crossover design is different (and better), too, but honestly I think the C608GTi would be at least competitive with the driver I wish Seas made (Excel motor, "G" cone, Uni-Q style coax with the H1333's current tweeter), let alone anything currently on offer from them, for most car installs.

I wouldn't be going into this much detail, except that I feel like I criticize the largely pathetic and reactionary efforts of the car-fi industry so much that it's only fair when a company produces something that's actually both good and worth the asking price I go out of my way to praise said product and the company that produced it.
 

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In that case, you could say the same for hybrid audios highest line, and rainbow, and hertz, and ect..
The site is called "Do It Yourself Mobile Audio" after all, not "What Can I Buy Off The Shelf And Get Someone To Put In For Me Mobile Audio".

That said, for $900, the JBL's really aren't that expensive compared to a lot of boutique brands. It would be interesting to know how they stack up against the Lotus set. No interest in the passive crossover though.
 

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The site is called "Do It Yourself Mobile Audio" after all, not "What Can I Buy Off The Shelf And Get Someone To Put In For Me Mobile Audio".

That said, for $900, the JBL's really aren't that expensive compared to a lot of boutique brands. It would be interesting to know how they stack up against the Lotus set. No interest in the passive crossover though.
Since when does "Do It Yourself" mean going active? To me it means installing your mobile setup by yourself. Now weather that involves going active or passive is purely up to the user. Would I pay 900 for a comp set, no, but like mentioned their are alot more expensive setups, and many people dont want to go active, including my self for my own reasons.
 

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Carbon Fiber (fake im sure) trim rings!? Look at all those accessories and mounting options... thats what you are paying for! :rolleyes:
 
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