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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been reading up on deadening my doors, but had a quick question. My current budget is tight so I cant afford to deaden the whole door now. Is it worth it to simply apply a sheet around the mid bass and on the outer panel behind the mid bass? Or should I just wait and do it all down the line?
 

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Ive been reading up on deadening my doors, but had a quick question. My current budget is tight so I cant afford to deaden the whole door now. Is it worth it to simply apply a sheet around the mid bass and on the outer panel behind the mid bass? Or should I just wait and do it all down the line?
Would you be cover any any of the door panel holes in the process? If not, I don't know how much of a difference that would make.
 

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Hell yea its worth it!

I'm kind of in the same boat as you in that I just don't have the budget and/or motivation to deaden my entire door just yet, but I had a really annoying rattle where a metal cable was rattling against a metal panel. 1 square inch of strategically placed damplifier took care of it :)
 

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Ive been reading up on deadening my doors, but had a quick question. My current budget is tight so I cant afford to deaden the whole door now. Is it worth it to simply apply a sheet around the mid bass and on the outer panel behind the mid bass? Or should I just wait and do it all down the line?
what vehicle? year model?
 

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I'd like this reaffirmed as well. From what I've read on here, it seems over time that people have noticed that they don't need to coat the entire panel, but add pieces to resonant areas that are not very stiff to begin with. This probably also makes it easier to repair a door if say your window breaks.

Isn't covering the door vs deadening a different process anyway? blocking waves vs resonance? :confused:
 

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Yes, deadening even just around the driver will offer benefits. It will help stop the sheet metal from resonating. This is a completely separate process than blocking backwaves. Both are good. You can block backwaves with a sheet of ABS plastic or thin birch plywood and a tube of silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would like to accomplish rattle elimination and increase the sound quality a tad bit. I didn't write my goals earlier so maybe this helps.
 

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Whatever deadening you do now is not going to hinder your future deadening goals, so I'd say go for it.
 

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Yes. A couple of days ago I, finally, applied some damplifier to my drivers side door and it made a noticeable difference. I'm going to do my passenger door today.:coolgleamA:
Next step is angled MDF mounting rings for my mids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was looking at damplifier too. Which one did you use, how much did you use and where did you place it?
Yes. A couple of days ago I, finally, applied some damplifier to my drivers side door and it made a noticeable difference. I'm going to do my passenger door today.:coolgleamA:
Next step is angled MDF mounting rings for my mids.
 

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I was looking at damplifier too. Which one did you use, how much did you use and where did you place it?
I got a small pack (20 sq ft) of the regular Damplifier. I used ~8 sq ft per door in my Silverado. I covered most of the outer panel and probably half of the inner panel. I made sure the metal around the speaker hole was covered on both sides. I knocked on inner the panel and put pieces wherever it resonated.
 

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I was thinking of applying only in small amounts on the door and blocking big holes with abs as well. But I'm doing this since I'd like to keep my lightweight sports car... lightweight! :)
 

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Definitely worth the time and effort. I've done full blown door deadening and I have to say you get 70% of the results with 30% of the work by just doing what is done in the picture below. Put a small patch of deadening sheet with some clay on top of it, cut out some rings and then clay outside the rings. I usually get some quilting stuffing or something like that and stuff it behind other plastic components in the door like the window regulator, wiring, etc. Cover any holes in your doors if you can and go from there.

Most rattles and vibrations after that come from the door panel itself, not the metal door sheets - at least in my experience.






You've probably already stumbled upon this thread but I think it's a great solution for the vast majority of people out there.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/27-simple-cheap-effective-door-treatments.html
 

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Looks ALMOST as bad as my previous car (1999 Cougar).

My holes were so big, and the door was so curvy, I used fiberglass to make 'plates' (?) then attached them with silicone.

Worked out great.


...some picture I found

 

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Ok. Im sad. Look at all the holes : ( How important is it to fill the holes and roughly how many sqf would be needed?

Oh to answer your question sort of...

The closer you get to a sealed enclosure, the better its going to sound. You'll see :D Only you can decide when it sounds good enough. It's all about sealing off the rear waves from the front waves.

Your mids will play much more efficiently when they are not fighting their own back waves. And you will get better midbass kick also.

I wouldn't just cover the holes with deadener either. You need something with more stiffness.
 
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