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Discussion Starter #22
I did not change the alternator's ground. I think it's grounded through the metal casing, which touches everything else... (Can anybody confirm this?)

The contact point on the alternator was not modified either. It was pretty easy to find- simply a big stud (!?) with a big wire coming off it. It traced directly to the battery. The factory wire was a true 4 ga., but very coarse- maybe 36 individual strands. In this instance, a new, additional and better quality wire was added.

In the pic above that has the battery tray, look for the wire on the left hand side, the one with the RED heat shrink tubing. That's the new one that goes to the alternator. I crimped on a new 4ga. connector, added a couple layers of heat shrink, and slipped it over the existing factory/stock stud. There was plenty of room, and I tightened the nut back down with 4 or 5 threads still left.

If you find a smallish plug with two or three small wires, that's NOT the wire to the battery you are looking for. Most modern alternators have sensing and control wires, and that plug is vital for proper functioning. Don't mess with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks. I started this in the spring, and am working towards soundproofing, then I have to build my apm rack, sub box and complete the install. I hope I get it done before it gets to cold out!
 

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I've been wanting to do the Big 3 for a little while, but I'm confused on one of the connections. When you talk about the battery negative to the frame are you talking about the wire that actually is connected to the battery post or are you talking about the pigtail wire that connects to I believe either the frame or the fuse box. Because my ground wire from the post to the frame is already a 4 gauge wire, but that pigtail wire is like a 14 gauge. and now I probably sound like an idiot.
 
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