Ok I know this topic has been covered ad nauseum as I've scoured the boards researching it. Now that I've gotten a better hold of the science behind it I'm going to tackle it from a fresh perspective. All of my new stereo components are either here are on their way so it's time to start tackling the least enjoyable part. Car is a 2006 Scion Xb which has little to no deadening in it from the start, not to mention an annoying exhaust droan while on the freeway which is where most of my driving takes place due to my commute everyday.
My previous experience in sound deadening my last 2 cars has been Peel'n'Seal and a bunch of carpet padding. Compared to nothing it worked wonders, however I know now that it could have been so much better. This time I'm taking a more detailed and thorough approach and would like some input or suggestions. Budget is a concern so I will likely do it in steps, and as much as I'd love to lay down 150sq of Damplifier Pro and LLP I don't think I could manage it. From what I've gathered on this forum is that the method of deadening is more important than just the quality of deadening products themselves. Ie; Damplifier pro with a half-assed ensolite layer on top won't be as good as a lesser vibration dampener with a quality uncoupler and barrier on top.
Which brings me to my current plan:
1. Lay down a good solid layer of Raamat in my car, doubling up in areas like front doors, firewall, trunk and quarter panels.
2. Lay down a layer of CCF for a decoupler. Since it will be compressed it doesn't make sense to me to buy a super expensive foam when the compressed thickness won't be able to absorb much anyways. Plan is to use he ensolite from Raamat since it's relatively cheap and easy to use.
3. Throw down a layer of 1lb/sq foot of MLV, possibly doubling up in key areas in the trunk to ensure blockage of the exhaust droan. Found a place locally in San Francisco that sells a 100 sq/ft roll of 1/8", 1lb/sq foot MLV that I can pickup for 140$.
4. Toying with the idea of stuffing a bunch of cotton batting behind any panels in the trunk lid, quarter panels and even the dash after all the other deadening is in. I know the batting should help absorb higher frequency sounds though would it even be worth it if the first 3 steps are done correctly?
That's the plan though I'm looking for suggestions or other input and hopefully a few q's answered.
Do I need another layer of ensolite on top of the MLV before I put the car back together or is it not worth the extra money for what improvement it may give me? Ie; since it's only meant to be a decoupler will it do any good to decouple the MLV to my carpet and plastic panels?
Other than the doors where my ID OEM's are going, is there truly any benefit to adding more layers of Raamat since I'll be using MLV as a barrier? Overall thickness is a concern when putting panels back on so what gives the most bang for the buck. Extra MLV or extra dampener?
Would it be good to use a layer of MLV on the door panels as well, or is it best to use just the ensolite since I've gotten limited thickness to work with?
One last thing. Since it's impossible to get a true un-broken barrier of MLV on the floors, how much should the sections overlap and what type of tape is good for the seams?
Sorry for the long post but I really want to do this right the first time, not waste any money or time on things that may only give me a 2% benefit and have it actually work well.
Fox and Rudeboy I'd value your input greatly.
My previous experience in sound deadening my last 2 cars has been Peel'n'Seal and a bunch of carpet padding. Compared to nothing it worked wonders, however I know now that it could have been so much better. This time I'm taking a more detailed and thorough approach and would like some input or suggestions. Budget is a concern so I will likely do it in steps, and as much as I'd love to lay down 150sq of Damplifier Pro and LLP I don't think I could manage it. From what I've gathered on this forum is that the method of deadening is more important than just the quality of deadening products themselves. Ie; Damplifier pro with a half-assed ensolite layer on top won't be as good as a lesser vibration dampener with a quality uncoupler and barrier on top.
Which brings me to my current plan:
1. Lay down a good solid layer of Raamat in my car, doubling up in areas like front doors, firewall, trunk and quarter panels.
2. Lay down a layer of CCF for a decoupler. Since it will be compressed it doesn't make sense to me to buy a super expensive foam when the compressed thickness won't be able to absorb much anyways. Plan is to use he ensolite from Raamat since it's relatively cheap and easy to use.
3. Throw down a layer of 1lb/sq foot of MLV, possibly doubling up in key areas in the trunk to ensure blockage of the exhaust droan. Found a place locally in San Francisco that sells a 100 sq/ft roll of 1/8", 1lb/sq foot MLV that I can pickup for 140$.
4. Toying with the idea of stuffing a bunch of cotton batting behind any panels in the trunk lid, quarter panels and even the dash after all the other deadening is in. I know the batting should help absorb higher frequency sounds though would it even be worth it if the first 3 steps are done correctly?
That's the plan though I'm looking for suggestions or other input and hopefully a few q's answered.
Do I need another layer of ensolite on top of the MLV before I put the car back together or is it not worth the extra money for what improvement it may give me? Ie; since it's only meant to be a decoupler will it do any good to decouple the MLV to my carpet and plastic panels?
Other than the doors where my ID OEM's are going, is there truly any benefit to adding more layers of Raamat since I'll be using MLV as a barrier? Overall thickness is a concern when putting panels back on so what gives the most bang for the buck. Extra MLV or extra dampener?
Would it be good to use a layer of MLV on the door panels as well, or is it best to use just the ensolite since I've gotten limited thickness to work with?
One last thing. Since it's impossible to get a true un-broken barrier of MLV on the floors, how much should the sections overlap and what type of tape is good for the seams?
Sorry for the long post but I really want to do this right the first time, not waste any money or time on things that may only give me a 2% benefit and have it actually work well.
Fox and Rudeboy I'd value your input greatly.