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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 BMW 550 with the standard stereo. tweets in the sail panel, 4" mid halfway up the door and a 8" woofer under each seat (plus the rear stage, which I don't use). Was planning on geting some CDT, Rainbow, DLS or the such and started pricing them out. Then I came upon this site and saw that a lot of you use way cheaper drivers and run them active.

I'm thinking of going with a Dayton RS180 in the lower doors (60hz - 200hz?), RS100 (200hz - 6000hz? higher?) in the stock location (mid height of door, about 4 inches above you leg when seated) and Vifa D26NC tweeter in the sail panels.

1. 1st off does this sound like a good plan?
2. Will the RS drivers work in the door without an enclosure?
3. I could move the RS100 up to the top and forward of the door panel (just off the 9 oclock position on the steering wheel). Would this be better placement?

Can't place anything in the a-pillar since there is an air bag there.

I plan on driving them with some alpine or kicker amps. Because I need a summing unit and thinking i could use some EQ I will probably go with either a DQL-8 or a 3sixty. I have an ID 10" sub already in a box that I will run and place in the trunk.

Any suggestions or advise would be greatly appreciated
 

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ALOHA
I'm not familiar with the DQL-8, but the 3Sixty.2 has six channels total.
One channel is a dedicated sub channel that can only be lopassed to 200hz.
You would need six channels to run your front three ways, actively, plus one channel for a sub. For a total of seven channels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinking if I use the DQL-8 I will sum my BMW HU signals, then send 300hz +/- and below to one amp and 300hz and above to another amp. Then use the amps built-in crossovers to to split the 300hz and below to the midbass and the sub (crossing at around 65hz) and use the other amp to split the 300hz and above signal to the mid and tweeter (crossing around 6-8khz).

Still trying to see if I can find something cheaper than the DQl, but for a summing/EQ/crossover, it looks like it might be the best bet. I think the RF 3Sixty will be too complex for me (plus I dont have a way to interface with it)
 

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I can only say one thing about the drivers: if you need woofers for midbass only (not lower than 50Hz high pass and not higher than 300Hz low pass) get some Peerless SLSes.
There are tons of great mids and tweeters out there, but those Peerless SLSes are just midbass wonders, even if you can afford drivers that cost 5 times that much.

About crossover frequencies: 200ish Hz is a fine point between midbasswoofers and mids. A little higher, like 300ish Hz is still fine, don't go much higher than that, voice starts there somewhere, if you can keep a crossover out of the voice-range, do it.

6kHz is quite high between a mid and a tweeter but there's nothing wrong with that if the mid is able to play accurate high enough. However, if the stage is low or shifts and the tweeters are positioned higher than the mids, you can solve it by crossing lower, if you don't have any staging troubles and the mid handles high frequencies well: feel free to cross high, the more of the vocal range comes out of the mids, the more stable the voices will position and tweeters only sound better and better when crossed higher.

Dayton and Vifa are great speaker brands, so just go with the mids and tweeters you have in mind, but please get some Peerless SLSes for midbass.

greetz,
Isabelle
 
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