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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok my question is pretty noobish, but i havn't had the chance to ever install one myself, had my last one installed by someone else. Ok so i want to add a LOC up behind my HU so that i can add some external amps here in the next few weeks. But i want to keep all of my speakers playing and all, and i'm not sure how i'm supposed to splice into the existing speaker wires coming from the HU without cutting them.....do i simply remove some of the protective insulator and then just put a short amount of speaker wire and electrical tape and then splice into the LOC on the other end or what.......I want to keep the existing speakers playing just fine, but wanting to add a sub for the time being untill i can get some of my other equipment.

Sorry to sound so noobish. I already have all of the OEM wiring color diagrams and all as well. Just want to make sure i can splice the way i have thought about it.......as not to mess up the signal the front speakers are getting as is......Without splicing into the rear speakers, so that when its time for the whole system to go in that i will have a dedicated front, and not have to fade all the way to the rear to get the signal and all.

Also how could i have a SUB control from the front....In my explorer i had it set on the rear speaker outs, and it gave me the ability to have the fade control being the sub volume control almost....sorta ghetto rigged but it worked wonders.
 

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I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't do it. Splicing the connections to the LOC to keep your factory speakers playing might mess up the signal you send to your amp.

As for sub control... does your amp have a remote gain knob? If not, just set the rear outputs to the sub amp and use your fader as sub control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok well what i was planning on doing for now, untill i can afford the behringer unit that i'm planning is to just add a sub for now, like i had in my explorer, using the same LOC, the way it was setup the rear speakers still played, which is how i want this to be done, as all i want to do when i upgrade the front is just take speakers out and plug and play pretty much, along with running a few more wires and the like. So i was gonna connect the LOC to the front speakers for that time. So also when it comes time i can run RCA's to the behringer unit then split the frequencies from there to there amps, which i will loose my sub controls, but when i get it the way i want it, it should be perfect.
 

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this is a rather difficult one, but Ill try and add something

1) you can splice into the stock spekaer lines using either a direct wire splice, or the better option is to buy two scoshe wire connectors that allow you to reverse wire your LOC to the stock HU

basically you solder the LOC wires to teh scoshes kit, then you have a dual input output adapter to plug the lines back into the deck and subsequent OEM plug harness

hope that makes sense , its hard to write it out without showing you the plugs.

but it saves you cutting your stock wire at any point, and willallow you to maintain use of the stock speakers while you upgrade over time

2) youll need to locate a remtoe turn on lead first and foremost for your amps

DO THIS FIRST before you close up the dash

and run the wire to wherever your amps will mount at, and then cover it with tape and wire mesh for protection until ready to use

if you car has a stock amplfier then there is a 12v signal off the stock deck,

if no stock amplifier you will need to tap into a 12v ACClead ( like the AC power line, or something like that) you may need a inline delay resitor to help with turn ion pops and what nots using this method


3) if you are using more than one amp off the HU, id HIHGLY recommend you wire up a bosch relay from partsexpress to save the life of whatever 12v lead you use for the remote turn on. its also much easier to use when adding a inline fuse on the 12v line (very important when runnign LOC off stockunits, as most of those lines are fused very low by the OEM)


4) once the LOC is instlaled all the speakers should play fine


if you have the option id run a 4 ch LOC so you can indeed fade your sub and components

just splice into all 4 speaker outputs using the scoshe connectors as I described earlier

maek sure your solder your leads as nothing sucks morethan having one come loose behind the dash.


5) make sure you plan out your rca leads throughoutyour car along with where yoru speaker wire is going to go


ID highly recommend yourun your own wire and not the OEM wire

if you do run the OEM wire keep you power low as most stock wire is 18-24 ga and cant handle much power

good luck hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply....

Basically what i was planning on doing was this.....Using the LOC for the signal for now to a single sub, then in a few weeks after i get my behringer 2496 adding that into the mix, as well as another amp for the use of going completely active and adding new front stage speakers as well, and running new speaker wires for the new speakers. Really all i want to do right now is just add in a sub for the meantime and really all i will need to do after putting the LOC in will be upgrade the power wires/add d-block, and upgrade the fusing. This sub will just be to see how to car reacts to a little bass, and to suit me for a few weeks till i can get everything ordered and all.

But i want to be able to keep everything coming off of the front signal because the behringer will be ran off of that signal, and then it will split the signals...if that makes sense.

Also remote goes to where.....12V RAD, or Ignition ACC, as looking up the radio diagrams it has both, so which should i use for the remote wires??


wire name/description

wire color
GR (ground)

brown
ACC (ignition ACC)

gray
B+ (12V RAD)


blue
ANT (antenna amplifier)

orange
FL+

pink
FL-

violet
FR+

light green
FR-

blue
RL+

brown
RL-

yellow
RR+

red
RR-

white
*note 1*

the ground is located behind the instrument/gauge panel
*note 2*

the tweeters are wired into the front speakers
*note 3*

+B to ground is always 12V
*note 4*

12V from ACC to ground when key is at ACC or ON position
 

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What is a LOC ?

I would use the ACC (ignition ACC) which should give you enough to turn on a seperate sub amp. But if you get more than 1 amp, you are going to want to run a new power wire from the battery and then use that brown wire to trigger a relay.

Before you get a behringer, you probably want to replace your headunit...
 

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LOC stands for Line Out Converter. It turns a high level output (speaker leads from a stock head unit) into a low level output (RCA's).

Ryan
 
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