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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is the 5ch amp I have.

My setup is currently wired in 2ohm giving me this.
4x100 RMS for the 4 speakers (perfectly matching my 100 RMS Type R's)
1 x 600 RMS for the sub (but the sub I have is only 300RMS).

I am very curious to seeing if I can add a second sub of the same model and specs (Kicker DVC CompVR104 4ohm) 350RMS and have them bridged in 2ohm. But going by the Pioneer spec sheet, it looks like subs can only be bridged in a 4ohm setup (which I do not want). Any workaround this so that these subs can be bridged in 2ohm?


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This is the 5ch amp I have.

My setup is currently wired in 2ohm giving me this.
4x100 RMS for the 4 speakers (perfectly matching my 100 RMS Type R's)
1 x 600 RMS for the sub (but the sub I have is only 300RMS).

I am very curious to seeing if I can add a second sub of the same model and specs (Kicker DVC CompVR104 4ohm) 350RMS and have them bridged in 2ohm. But going by the Pioneer spec sheet, it looks like subs can only be bridged in a 4ohm setup (which I do not want). Any workaround this so that these subs can be bridged in 2ohm?


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For 4-ohm dvc subs, each sub can be wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load (like you have now) or in series for an 8-ohm load. 2 2-ohm loads can be wired in parallel for a 1-ohm load or in series for a 4-ohm load. 2 8-ohm loads can be wired in parallel for a 4-ohm load or in series for a 16-ohm load. Since your amp likely won't run with a 1-ohm load and won't produce any power at 16-ohms, 4-ohms is your only viable option. You could buy another amp that runs at 1-ohm.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For 4-ohm dvc subs, each sub can be wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load (like you have now) or in series for an 8-ohm load. 2 2-ohm loads can be wired in parallel for a 1-ohm load or in series for a 4-ohm load. 2 8-ohm loads can be wired in parallel for a 4-ohm load or in series for a 16-ohm load. Since your amp likely won't run with a 1-ohm load and won't produce any power at 16-ohms, 4-ohms is your only viable option. You could buy another amp that runs at 1-ohm.
Thanks. It looks like if I want to add another of the same subI have now, I'll need a second amp. Otherwise I'll only get 200 RMS per sub in 4ohm if I am reading this right.
 

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Thanks.that 350 RMS in 4ohm is combined and not per sub right?
Yes that is total output from the sub channel. so you would have 175 per sub.

If you had dual 2OHM subs you could still wire to 2OHM final and get the full 600, so 300ea. would be easier to go that way then adding a second amp.

what is your end goal here? just more output?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes that is total output from the sub channel. so you would have 175 per sub.

If you had dual 2OHM subs you could still wire to 2OHM final and get the full 600, so 300ea. would be easier to go that way then adding a second amp.

what is your end goal here? just more output?
Thanks. Sounds like Im best off with adding a second mono amp for the second sub. Too much power and strain on the cars electrical. Would like to leave the current rig running as is in 2ohms.
 

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Thanks. Sounds like Im best off with adding a second mono amp for the second sub. Too much power and strain on the cars electrical. Would like to leave the current rig running as is in 2ohms.
You are better off selling the kicker sub.
Grab a more robust sub and you will only want one.
Plus it is cheaper and easier. No additional fuse block wiring. Keep the amp. Sell the sub.
 

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Thanks. Sounds like Im best off with adding a second mono amp for the second sub. Too much power and strain on the cars electrical. Would like to leave the current rig running as is in 2ohms.
adding a second amp increases electrical load. you could add 10 subs and as long as you are still running 2ohms you wont see an increase in power draw.

if you want more bass. then look at different box options or a different sub. the extra amp is a bunch of extra money just to accomplish something that could be done with a better sub/box
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are better off selling the kicker sub.
Grab a more robust sub and you will only want one.
Plus it is cheaper and easier. No additional fuse block wiring. Keep the amp. Sell the sub.
I was thinking this too but then i said to myself, how much of a difference would I really notice going from a 350RMS sub to a 600RMS one, both same size in the same enclosure. If it's worth it I will do this.
 

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I was thinking this too but then i said to myself, how much of a difference would I really notice going from a 350RMS sub to a 600RMS one, both same size in the same enclosure. If it's worth it I will do this.
There’s a LOT that can change how a sub sounds. But start with what you have, is it a custom box or prefab? If custom, maybe a new sub & custom box would be better, or 2 new subs plus box etc.

But if you aren’t yet running a custom box made for that specific sub, with a good tuning frequency, that would certainly be the first and most cost effective way to improve the situation.
 

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I was thinking this too but then i said to myself, how much of a difference would I really notice going from a 350RMS sub to a 600RMS one, both same size in the same enclosure. If it's worth it I will do this.
A lot. Kicker are subs are for kids. It's a good first sub.
But for what a decent kicker cost....the q class. Even those are over priced.
For the 250 or so an amp would cost plus all the wiring and a new sub.plus the hundo or so the kicker is worth.
You could grab a w6 and on 600 watts have one of the best sub stages available. Arguably of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There’s a LOT that can change how a sub sounds. But start with what you have, is it a custom box or prefab? If custom, maybe a new sub & custom box would be better, or 2 new subs plus box etc.

But if you aren’t yet running a custom box made for that specific sub, with a good tuning frequency, that would certainly be the first and most cost effective way to improve the situation.
The sealed box that my Kicker is in right now is not custom but I just happened to run into a Bassworx box like 7 years ago that fit the spot in my backseat perfectly in the old car and in my car now. And the bass is really big and sounds great. It points up to the roof of the car at an angle and there's no going back to having a sub in the trunk again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A lot. Kicker are subs are for kids. It's a good first sub.
But for what a decent kicker cost....the q class. Even those are over priced.
For the 250 or so an amp would cost plus all the wiring and a new sub.plus the hundo or so the kicker is worth.
You could grab a w6 and on 600 watts have one of the best sub stages available. Arguably of course.
I am tempted now to upgrade the sub. The Kicker Comp VR is probably Kickers best sub without being overpriced. Works like a charm over the past 7 years I've had it. I was considering the Alpine S sub which is 600RMS too. Not sure how it stacks up to the W6 for bass quality. I had a W3 many years ago, really liked it but unfortunately i ruined it since I underpowered it too much. Do sub enclosures eventually go bad or worn out over time and need replacing?

If I put in a 600RMS sub, I am assuming I will have to pull out the multimeter again to check for voltage again to see what volume I can safely run it at?
 

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The sealed box that my Kicker is in right now is not custom but I just happened to run into a Bassworx box like 7 years ago that fit the spot in my backseat perfectly in the old car and in my car now. And the bass is really big and sounds great. It points up to the roof of the car at an angle and there's no going back to having a sub in the trunk again.
If you had a properly built box in the trunk it would outperform that box on the seat
 

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The alpine won't last. The type r is pretty ok. Gets loud. Low. Not that transient but it's OK.
The w6 is in the likes of cvx or the type x.
Just a lot has been done to make it sound really nice.
But really what do you want? You just asked about adding a sub. So I'm assuming you want more bass.
If you just want to get loud and sound OK.
One of these ported
 
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