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Discussion Starter #1
So upgrading my car audio and a friend likes his alpine type r 6.5 components so I got a set also. The upper end I really like everything is nice and clear but complete loss of mid bass. A quick rundown on my system is type r 6.5 comp front type r 6.5 coax rear powered by a kenwood kac-8405(60rms x4) crossed high at 60hz and a 10 inch type r powered by a jbl gto7001(700rms) crossed low at 80hz then high at 25hz. The comp in the front has to go... I have nice clear vocals and then bass more than loud enough... So basically vocals good to go... bass good to go... the guitar you cant even hear until it gets into higher strings. If I had to describe whats its missing I would say its missing the warmth that the tracks have when played on my home system.

So my options are replace the speakers in the front or the back... If I had my choice I would want to replace the rear speakers with a pair of peerless sls 6.5's but from what I have read those tones will be easily localized so all my midbass would be behind me... My car is a 02 civic si speakers in the door with tweeter mounted inside the factory tweeter location(sail panel) and rear speakers mounted factory location also(on sides about bottom seat height). Not interested in kick panels because a lack of room on the driver side. If anyone could recommend another set of components or some ideas to help solve my problem I would appreciate it since its driving me up the wall atm. The only other plans I have for my car is adding in a dsp for a little more control.

The random question I have is this is my first 10inch sub and its odd because in the car its extremely loud when pushed but you can go inside the house and not hear it at all(about 25ft away). This is not a bad thing since I don't want the world hearing my music at every light I am caught by its just different. Is this normal for a 10?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone?
 

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Sound like more of a phasing problem to me...that's the frequency range that would be most affected.

Just a thought.


Turborusty
 

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Also, make sure your doors are sealed off. Someone here tested the difference with doing that and it was about 5dB in the midbass if I remember correctly, which is almost the equivalent of running 4x the power, AND it will reduce distortion at any given level since the speaker will be working less to give you the same output.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sound like more of a phasing problem to me...that's the frequency range that would be most affected.

Just a thought.


Turborusty
Talking about sub phase?

Also, make sure your doors are sealed off. Someone here tested the difference with doing that and it was about 5dB in the midbass if I remember correctly, which is almost the equivalent of running 4x the power, AND it will reduce distortion at any given level since the speaker will be working less to give you the same output.
Sealed how do you mean? The doors have been deadened inside and out but the box for the speakers is pretty much the entire door.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just a follow up for the phase part its in phase.
 

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Based on everything I know, type-rs should have a decent mid-bass impact. I have spr-17s, and spr-60c should be even better, at least when fully broken in. My spr-17s had good bass impact right after I powered them the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright so after browsing the forums some more I figured out what sealing my doors meant and yes they are sealed. Wondering if anyone has had any luck with making a fiberglass enclosure that fits inside the door? Like I would make an enclosure for a sub... except for the midrange. Would make me happy to not have my music coming out the top of my door but would it actually improve my sound?

To Zakoh I would have thought they would have sounded better from what my friend was saying too. I have the spr-60c front and spr-60 in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Earlier today I bumped front and rear up to 100 and moved the sub to 100 also... The sub stands out a little more now but picks up a little more that I think my 6.5's were failing at.
 

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Earlier today I bumped front and rear up to 100 and moved the sub to 100 also... The sub stands out a little more now but picks up a little more that I think my 6.5's were failing at.
Great, have you tried listening to your music with the woofer at 60ish hz xover point instead of 80hz ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great, have you tried listening to your music with the woofer at 60ish hz xover point instead of 80hz ?
No I haven't lowered it. Unless I am mistaken my 6.5's only go down to 65-70hz so lowering my sub would probably just make more of a gap.

When I get home I am going to start googling up enclosures for doors. After some thought and looking I might try for a 3 way system in the front after I get the dsp. Would give me an interesting project and making some kick panels for a speaker four inches or below wouldn't kill my foot area on the driver side. That will take quite a bit more planning though.
 

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Low-frequency extension is a tradeoff for overall output ability. You shouldn't run front speakers lower than ~80Hz unless you've got some serious woofers up there e.g. SS Illuminator / Exodus Anarchy / Adire Extremis, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep I don't really want them up there for anything lower than 80. Like my reply above after I get the dsp I'm just going with another amp, figure out which three speakers to go with. So far the outline is 6.5 for the door 4inch for the kick and probably going to leave the tweeters in the sail. So unless the type r tweeters just sound off they will just stay where they are at. This is going to take me a couple months to get together so probably won't follow up on this for a bit. Since it's going to require some saving if anyone can suggest a decent 6.5(was thinking peerless or morel) or 4inch(I have no clue what would even be decent) or a dsp that is sub $300. I would appreciate it.
 
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