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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I originally planned to do an SQ build for this truck years ago but got too scared of thieves after a friend's new F150 fell victim to a smash and grab at a quick pit stop. So I ended up keeping the stock HU and going with $40 pioneer 6x9's that play impressively well without an external amp.

Nowadays, the truck gets parked outside and is mostly used for road trips and utility runs. I'd like amp it up but still keep it very low profile. I've looked for a harness adapter to get line outs from the HU, but that doesn't seem to be an option.

Driver wise - this truck is a single cab with 6x9's behind the seats and in the doors. There's pioneer 3.5's in the dash that are factory wired in parallel with the door speakers.

I have an old PG 200x4 that I'm planning to use. Currently, there are cheapo pioneer three ways at every position so the overall presentation is a mess. I'm thinking change the rears to a low-pass and make them effectively subs, then do a "real" two way up front.

I don't mind going nuts with a dsp and all, but would really rather keep this on the simple and lower cost side.

What do you guys suggest? I'd really appreciate some pointers on this.
 

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El cheapo DSP - DAYTON 408 - use some new tech with old amp power.

Is that a monster amp or will it fit under the seat?

If it won't fit and stealth is a concern, then a smaller foot print amp(s) might be in order
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Sine. I'll check out that dsp. The amp is indeed a monster. The truck has tinted windows and I was thinking it should hide pretty well on the little shelf behind the seats. However, it is way overkill for this and a little class D would make a lot more sense.
 

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Keep the front 6x9 and disable the coaxial tweeters and midrange on them so you can just use the midbass portion or just bandpass them from 80 to 2500 Hz. Buy a decent large format tweeter such as the SB Acoustics 29RDCN regular or neo version if on a budget or AudioFrog GB15 if you want to go all out (there isn’t much difference though at normal levels). Get a JL TwK88 DSP because it’s more beginner friendly or if on a tight budget Dayton 408 (own both). Get a UMIK microphone (good) or AudioFrog microphone (best) and use with REW RTA (free) to tune the DSP. Use your current amplifier to run the tweeters and midbass in doors in a two way active setup. You may need some kind of factory integration such as the JL Fix 86 or Amp Pro to undo the factory tune, which will reek havoc with the tune if you don’t remove it or bypass it. Most important piece (I think) is a real subwoofer. Ditch the rear speakers and get a shallow to semi shallow subwoofer and build a box that will fit behind the seats. I have a Sundown SD3-10 in a custom ported .98 cu ft box tuned to 30 Hz and it sounds awesome.

So the recipe is:

  • Keep what you have and repurpose/reuse it.
  • Get a high qaulity large format tweeter that can cross less than 2500 Hz with low distortion for an active two way front.
  • Put you amplifier on that front stage as an active front.
  • Get a decent DSP and microphone and learn how to tune. AudioFrog comes with everything you need to learn.
  • Figure out which factory integration method works best for your vehicle and use it.
  • For next level SQ you need a subwoofer to take care of the frequencies below 80 Hz, don’t make door speakers, even 6x9 do that.
  • Invest in some sound deadening, seal up any door holes, and seal the speakers well. Everything you need for that is here.
I ran a simple stealth system in my truck consisting of home Audio tweeters, factory door woofers, a 100 wpc 4-channel for the front stage. A 550 watt budget monoblock amplifier. Sundown SD3-10 in custom box, JLtwk88 and FIX 86. This was a cheap and surprisingly awesome sounding system and the people who got to listen to it didn’t believe me when I told them what the speakers were or how much it cost. This was in a regular cab F150 you see in my signature. I’ve since upgraded the tweeters and midbass but for what that cost me the improvement in sound didn’t really justify the cost. The AudioFrog GB10 tweeters made the biggest difference while the JL C5 only sound better when at very high listening levels.
 
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