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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the long post - jump to the "Here's where I need help" paragraph if you want to bypass the backstory.


I had a nice system installed into my vehicle, but the methods of "tuning" aren't where I'd like them to be, so I'd like some quick advice here.

But let me back up. This is my first post here, so bare with me.

I do a lot in the home theater space. I have a very high end theater, and have done a lot over the years with calibrating things. However, after integrating a Trinnov Altitude 32 into the system, I flew out the guy that calibrated Joe Rogan's (the podcast guy) house to do my theater as he's one of the best. So, I am very familiar with how nearly all of this works. Years ago, I used REW to sum & eq multiple subs through a MiniDSP. Later, I spent time with Dirac - which was incredibly easy to use.

So, I'm not new to how to calibrate (at a mid-level). But it's been a few years since I've used REW, and I was hoping to avoid a very lengthy process.

Jumping forward a bit, I picked up a Porsche Cayenne Turbo GT, but like all vehicles coming out of Porsche this year, it wasn't available with an upgraded audio system due to amp shortages - you couldn't order them, and it still might be that way. So, I reached out to the best installer I know, and had him toss a nice system into the vehicle. All Focal Utopia's up front w/ the 3.5" C L & R, the nice tweeters, 8" drivers in the L & R doors, a lower end Focal 3 way (IIRC) in the rear, JL Audio amps & dual 10" subs, etc.

However, when the installer was done, and I got into the vehicle, he said I was the first person he'd ever had that didn't blast the audio. In fact, I turned it down a bit. I was critical, and quickly (after driving home) found that I wasn't satisfied with the tune. So, I downloaded the JL Audio TUN software, plugged in my laptop, and found some small issues (like both L&R weren't blended to the C channel, they forgot to connect the Left channel in the DSP). Further, there was no time alignment, the EQ was done by ear, and was lacking midbass, etc.

I'm thinking that most of his clients are good w/ his out of the box approach to calibration. But anyone that's experienced a very well done calibration will know why it's important. And while I know that a car will never be a home theater (as it's factually limited in so many more ways due to physical design, external noise, etc), it can still be incredible.

So, a few days before Christmas, I had the car's key on (without it running), was trying to sort through how to tune the car from inside my house as it was super cold out, and the car died (my fault, but I didn't think it'd cause any major issue, but was wrong). For some reason, the battery wouldn't accept a charge. And due to some weird issue w/ Lithium batteries, it failed for good. But get this - Porsche uses special batteries for their cars that are unique to them, and they've been back ordered. So after 6 weeks w/o my car, I emailed the President and Exec team of Porsche of America, and a battery was overnighted. I finally got it back today...


---> Here's where I need help. What I don't know, is how to output pink noise from the TUN software via my macbook pro, through the vehicles audio system. I tried using USB-C, and the car sees that a "USB Device Connected", but noting outputs as the MBP doesn't identify it as a speaker. The reason for wanting to use TUN, is that I can quickly apply an EQ w/ ease (based on my defined curve) as it ties into the amps. Otherwise, I suppose I can test feeding pink noise through a phone, but it's not a self contained system like TUN. And while I know that I won't be able to easily time align w/o the JL MAX-KIT system, I feel like I can get close w/ physical measurements, and circle back later if desired.

If the above doesn't satisfy me, I'll either order the MiniDSP C DSP system and run Dirac (which I know very well), or consider ordering the JL MAX-KIT (which is expensive for a single use, so this isn't ideal, but it's a legit system and will produce a great result).

Also, while I know I could run REW, apply manual corrections in the amps' DSPs, I'd much prefer not to go down that rabbit hole as it'll be a multi day process (I'm guessing) to get back up to speed on it, go through full testing, measurements, find out the 3 things I missed, redo, repeat, etc, and finally get it right. And I simply dread doing that. I'd rather take the route of one of the two options above.

So, my request for help on this, is as it'd apply to using the TUN software, and (likely) not taking a more in-depth approach.

Anyways, I appreciate the help.


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Is that bare mdf? The install looks solid. I would guess the majority of that 20K is in the equipment itself. I have no doubt with the right tune that gear will sound good. Someone here will be able to help you find a solution. I am just ogling the sweet ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is that bare mdf? The install looks solid. I would guess the majority of that 20K is in the equipment itself. I have no doubt with the right tune that gear will sound good. Someone here will be able to help you find a solution. I am just ogling the sweet ride.
I'm not sure if it's bare MDF (looks like it though), or if anything more was done to it. It's hidden under the trunk panel (the sub box is placed where a spare tire would be).
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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For what it's worth, I struggled a lot with Tun and this was one of my first problems.
Personally, I just used my android phone as the source and played the pink noise files provided by JL: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/235503327-Audio-Files
I fought for a while to try and output the pink noise from my laptop while tuning, but in the end, I realized it simply wasn't worth the trouble. Most android phones have the ability to output decent high res audio via bluetooth codecs, so there's no reason not to use those.
In my mind, my source is always going to be audio from my phone, so playing the pink noise from the phone made the most sense because that is how I intend to use the system on a daily basis.
I downloaded VLC media player to my phone, connected it up, played the JL files, did the basic tun process. Sounds great.

A system of this caliber begs to be properly tuned using the MAXX system.
 

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great suv, i have my ctts being done at the moment, hope you get it figured out
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
For what it's worth, I struggled a lot with Tun and this was one of my first problems.
Personally, I just used my android phone as the source and played the pink noise files provided by JL: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/235503327-Audio-Files
I fought for a while to try and output the pink noise from my laptop while tuning, but in the end, I realized it simply wasn't worth the trouble. Most android phones have the ability to output decent high res audio via bluetooth codecs, so there's no reason not to use those.
In my mind, my source is always going to be audio from my phone, so playing the pink noise from the phone made the most sense because that is how I intend to use the system on a daily basis.
I downloaded VLC media player to my phone, connected it up, played the JL files, did the basic tun process. Sounds great.

A system of this caliber begs to be properly tuned using the MAXX system.
I have a second (Android) phone I keep in the car for use of the Highway Radar app. I wasn't aware that JL had files available. I guess that I could've saved a few bucks w/ paying for the remote tune. But we'll see what the tuner comes up with I guess. Knowing these files are available, I can always add another tune for myself at some point if desired. Really, the best approach likely would've been w/ the JL Audio MAX-KIT as it'll time and phase align. Plus, all readings would be averaged and far more accurate than my UMIK-1.
 

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Looks like you're in Washington? (Vancouver, WA here!) If you come down south to Portland, we have Musicar NW which is regarded as one of the best tuning places around. They do lots of high end cars like Porsche.
 

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Fantastic vehicle.
The Turbo GT is one of the few SUV's that'll mop the floor with most 'fast cars' (including other Porsches).

Funny, you're the second fellow, in the past 2 weeks, who has dropped significant money on equipment and install... only to be disappointed by the shops tuning skills (or lack thereof). It's an art in itself, and honestly I don't think most installers realize what an imprtant piece it is. I suppose the reality is that; most clients don't realize (or value) the importance of a solid tune.

Typically, in a system like yours; if the shop isn't spending a full day tuning (and charging you in the neighborhood of $750 to $1K for it)... then they don't know how to properly tune. And if they're doing 'EQ by ear', then they really don't know how to tune. And if they haven't even set the time alignment... then they definitely don't know how to tune.

There aren't many shops that are really good at everything...

I see you're in Spokane. I have a couple recommendations:
  1. Take a 5.5 hour drive down to Portland, and go see Musicar Northwest (as @cowdog360 suggested)
  2. Do a road-trip 7 hour drive up to Calgary (Canada), and go see @AudioGal. Trust me, this one is worth the drive...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like you're in Washington? (Vancouver, WA here!) If you come down south to Portland, we have Musicar NW which is regarded as one of the best tuning places around. They do lots of high end cars like Porsche.
I'm in Spokane, so it'd be a bit of a drive, but I might soon be looking for alternatives...

Reason I say that, is that I paid for a remote tune (with the business mentioned above) late Monday night. After some back and forth emails on Tuesday (which no progress was made towards getting things booked or prepared), I was asked to call the following day. So I did that, still nothing was figured out (even though I had asked to schedule a time while on that call), I was told I'd receive an email back to do so, which to this point, hasn't happened...

So, maybe I have unreasonable expectations (I don't think so), but I paid Monday/Tuesday, and as of Saturday (likely to now be at least Monday due to the weekend) there's been nothing scheduled, no next steps provided, no follow up email, nothing - after multiple emails and calls. I don't mean to imply anything negatively about the business or anything, I'm simply stating the facts as they've progressed.

I guess this is the risk when you pay in advance. And what I'm not going to do, is chase down anyone to progress a project I've paid for. That just doesn't seem the right way to do things.
 
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