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Sorry for the long post - jump to the "Here's where I need help" paragraph if you want to bypass the backstory.
I had a nice system installed into my vehicle, but the methods of "tuning" aren't where I'd like them to be, so I'd like some quick advice here.
But let me back up. This is my first post here, so bare with me.
I do a lot in the home theater space. I have a very high end theater, and have done a lot over the years with calibrating things. However, after integrating a Trinnov Altitude 32 into the system, I flew out the guy that calibrated Joe Rogan's (the podcast guy) house to do my theater as he's one of the best. So, I am very familiar with how nearly all of this works. Years ago, I used REW to sum & eq multiple subs through a MiniDSP. Later, I spent time with Dirac - which was incredibly easy to use.
So, I'm not new to how to calibrate (at a mid-level). But it's been a few years since I've used REW, and I was hoping to avoid a very lengthy process.
Jumping forward a bit, I picked up a Porsche Cayenne Turbo GT, but like all vehicles coming out of Porsche this year, it wasn't available with an upgraded audio system due to amp shortages - you couldn't order them, and it still might be that way. So, I reached out to the best installer I know, and had him toss a nice system into the vehicle. All Focal Utopia's up front w/ the 3.5" C L & R, the nice tweeters, 8" drivers in the L & R doors, a lower end Focal 3 way (IIRC) in the rear, JL Audio amps & dual 10" subs, etc.
However, when the installer was done, and I got into the vehicle, he said I was the first person he'd ever had that didn't blast the audio. In fact, I turned it down a bit. I was critical, and quickly (after driving home) found that I wasn't satisfied with the tune. So, I downloaded the JL Audio TUN software, plugged in my laptop, and found some small issues (like both L&R weren't blended to the C channel, they forgot to connect the Left channel in the DSP). Further, there was no time alignment, the EQ was done by ear, and was lacking midbass, etc.
I'm thinking that most of his clients are good w/ his out of the box approach to calibration. But anyone that's experienced a very well done calibration will know why it's important. And while I know that a car will never be a home theater (as it's factually limited in so many more ways due to physical design, external noise, etc), it can still be incredible.
So, a few days before Christmas, I had the car's key on (without it running), was trying to sort through how to tune the car from inside my house as it was super cold out, and the car died (my fault, but I didn't think it'd cause any major issue, but was wrong). For some reason, the battery wouldn't accept a charge. And due to some weird issue w/ Lithium batteries, it failed for good. But get this - Porsche uses special batteries for their cars that are unique to them, and they've been back ordered. So after 6 weeks w/o my car, I emailed the President and Exec team of Porsche of America, and a battery was overnighted. I finally got it back today...
---> Here's where I need help. What I don't know, is how to output pink noise from the TUN software via my macbook pro, through the vehicles audio system. I tried using USB-C, and the car sees that a "USB Device Connected", but noting outputs as the MBP doesn't identify it as a speaker. The reason for wanting to use TUN, is that I can quickly apply an EQ w/ ease (based on my defined curve) as it ties into the amps. Otherwise, I suppose I can test feeding pink noise through a phone, but it's not a self contained system like TUN. And while I know that I won't be able to easily time align w/o the JL MAX-KIT system, I feel like I can get close w/ physical measurements, and circle back later if desired.
If the above doesn't satisfy me, I'll either order the MiniDSP C DSP system and run Dirac (which I know very well), or consider ordering the JL MAX-KIT (which is expensive for a single use, so this isn't ideal, but it's a legit system and will produce a great result).
Also, while I know I could run REW, apply manual corrections in the amps' DSPs, I'd much prefer not to go down that rabbit hole as it'll be a multi day process (I'm guessing) to get back up to speed on it, go through full testing, measurements, find out the 3 things I missed, redo, repeat, etc, and finally get it right. And I simply dread doing that. I'd rather take the route of one of the two options above.
So, my request for help on this, is as it'd apply to using the TUN software, and (likely) not taking a more in-depth approach.
Anyways, I appreciate the help.
I had a nice system installed into my vehicle, but the methods of "tuning" aren't where I'd like them to be, so I'd like some quick advice here.
But let me back up. This is my first post here, so bare with me.
I do a lot in the home theater space. I have a very high end theater, and have done a lot over the years with calibrating things. However, after integrating a Trinnov Altitude 32 into the system, I flew out the guy that calibrated Joe Rogan's (the podcast guy) house to do my theater as he's one of the best. So, I am very familiar with how nearly all of this works. Years ago, I used REW to sum & eq multiple subs through a MiniDSP. Later, I spent time with Dirac - which was incredibly easy to use.
So, I'm not new to how to calibrate (at a mid-level). But it's been a few years since I've used REW, and I was hoping to avoid a very lengthy process.
Jumping forward a bit, I picked up a Porsche Cayenne Turbo GT, but like all vehicles coming out of Porsche this year, it wasn't available with an upgraded audio system due to amp shortages - you couldn't order them, and it still might be that way. So, I reached out to the best installer I know, and had him toss a nice system into the vehicle. All Focal Utopia's up front w/ the 3.5" C L & R, the nice tweeters, 8" drivers in the L & R doors, a lower end Focal 3 way (IIRC) in the rear, JL Audio amps & dual 10" subs, etc.
However, when the installer was done, and I got into the vehicle, he said I was the first person he'd ever had that didn't blast the audio. In fact, I turned it down a bit. I was critical, and quickly (after driving home) found that I wasn't satisfied with the tune. So, I downloaded the JL Audio TUN software, plugged in my laptop, and found some small issues (like both L&R weren't blended to the C channel, they forgot to connect the Left channel in the DSP). Further, there was no time alignment, the EQ was done by ear, and was lacking midbass, etc.
I'm thinking that most of his clients are good w/ his out of the box approach to calibration. But anyone that's experienced a very well done calibration will know why it's important. And while I know that a car will never be a home theater (as it's factually limited in so many more ways due to physical design, external noise, etc), it can still be incredible.
So, a few days before Christmas, I had the car's key on (without it running), was trying to sort through how to tune the car from inside my house as it was super cold out, and the car died (my fault, but I didn't think it'd cause any major issue, but was wrong). For some reason, the battery wouldn't accept a charge. And due to some weird issue w/ Lithium batteries, it failed for good. But get this - Porsche uses special batteries for their cars that are unique to them, and they've been back ordered. So after 6 weeks w/o my car, I emailed the President and Exec team of Porsche of America, and a battery was overnighted. I finally got it back today...
---> Here's where I need help. What I don't know, is how to output pink noise from the TUN software via my macbook pro, through the vehicles audio system. I tried using USB-C, and the car sees that a "USB Device Connected", but noting outputs as the MBP doesn't identify it as a speaker. The reason for wanting to use TUN, is that I can quickly apply an EQ w/ ease (based on my defined curve) as it ties into the amps. Otherwise, I suppose I can test feeding pink noise through a phone, but it's not a self contained system like TUN. And while I know that I won't be able to easily time align w/o the JL MAX-KIT system, I feel like I can get close w/ physical measurements, and circle back later if desired.
If the above doesn't satisfy me, I'll either order the MiniDSP C DSP system and run Dirac (which I know very well), or consider ordering the JL MAX-KIT (which is expensive for a single use, so this isn't ideal, but it's a legit system and will produce a great result).
Also, while I know I could run REW, apply manual corrections in the amps' DSPs, I'd much prefer not to go down that rabbit hole as it'll be a multi day process (I'm guessing) to get back up to speed on it, go through full testing, measurements, find out the 3 things I missed, redo, repeat, etc, and finally get it right. And I simply dread doing that. I'd rather take the route of one of the two options above.
So, my request for help on this, is as it'd apply to using the TUN software, and (likely) not taking a more in-depth approach.
Anyways, I appreciate the help.
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