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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

It's time.... time to finally start my install... First I need to buy some sensors...

I have a Python Responder LE base unit and I'm looking to add these add-on sensors..

530t- Window module
520t- Backup battery
515r- Backup battery siren
513t- Mini Piezo siren x2 (or 3 or 4
)
509u- Ultrasonic sensor
506t- Glass break sensor

What I would like to know is, an expert opinion on what I have on the list... What might work better, or differently for my app..

I have a VERY confident installer lined up for this (my brother, ran a Directed based install shop for 5-6yrs) so the install isn't an issue, but, he's been doing other things for a few years so, the up-to-the-minute for him is gone..

Thanks in advance for any and all input...

Aaron..

PS.. of someone could "direct" me to a place to get these cheaper, please do so... right now I had a combination of Amazon and Audio Discounters working for me, but I'm finding other various sites with better prices.. am I better off, picking things from all over the net, or buying in one spot??
 

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The only advice I can offer is NEVER put motion sensors near your vents because the hot air rising from them after you turn off the car will constantly set them off. :mad:

Lots of pain generators = GOOD! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, that's a start, but not quite what I had in mind..

this is what I got from a friend on another forum, to maybe get this going...

Looks like you went with a really good setup. I have a very similar setup with the Viper Responder LE, 2 window modules, trunk solenoid, 2 mini piezos, proximity sensor, digital tilt sensor, and a couple other tricks.
I personally love the system. It is by far the best DEI product I have seen in years.

Couple of quick tips for your install though.

1. Doing piezos and the glassbreak. If the piezo is too close to the audio microphone for the glass break sensor, it will always trigger full alarm and you will loose the warn away feature. When the alarm triggers warn away it will chirp 4 times and depending on placement the piezos chirping will trigger the glass break and send the alarm into full alarm mode. So chirp chirp chirp then wam! full alarm. Either mess with the placement of the piezos and the mic, or wire the piezos with a relay off of the horn honk output and have them only trigger during full alarm mode.

2. The trunk solenoid is a major PITA. Especially with all the sound deadening you have done.
If you are doing it the stealth way and running it off the latch near the bumper (instead of mounting it to the trunk lid) it takes a lot of tweaking to get it to work. You will need to hammer the metal of the trunk liner to allow for the solenoid to tuck under the lip. You may also have to weaken the spring on the trunk latch mechanism.

Have fun, you have a ton of work ahead of you! I think my entire install probably took between 10-12 hours. And I install these everyday at work.
 

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Aaron, great list of stuff...

I agree on the piezo's... the more the better. Also, use the Alarming out for the piezo's to avoid the warn-away falsing.

The 1 thing I love about my Clifford Matrix Responder is that it too has the built in turbo timer function that is adjustable from the remote.

the Ultrasonic sensor designed to sense changes in cabin/interior pressure. Its a good sensor, but its not very adjustable, as I remember. I am a huge fan of the 2-stage proximity/radar sensors. The warn away is on the impact. The 2-stage radar allows you to set interior & exterior perimeters/parameters to your taste, where you are parked, weather etc.. they used to have an attractive console/dash mounted control pad. Not sure if they still do. I would NOT use the DEI version of the Radar sensor, as it is RF based & lacks the DSP used in the Clifford Proximity unit.

Be sure to mount the back up battery where YOU (not a theif) can get to it fairly easily for servicing... I made that mistake on my F150. They are lead-acid style batteries, so they do really need mounted to vent outside.. I bought plastic electronics project box that was just big enough. then ran a 3/8" vacuum hose through the floor.

As its commonly said, install is everything. Having an experienced Directed installer is HUGE. You got lucky on that one.

last thing, LED's LOTS OF THEM... I have my main one installed on the bottom of my rear view mirror. aiming toward the dash top. When its dark out, it lights up the entire front compartment. When I take the car apart (again) for the deadening, I plan to put the Electro-Luminescent flat badges on the 2 front windows or at least 1-LED per door top. Just put them on a relay off the main LED output.

My F150 had one on each of the 4 door panel tops, one in each white back up lens on the bed sides, one in each lower corner on the headlights/markers, the under mirror in the interior.. lol... it lit up a 2-car parking area around the truck...

good luck.. take lots of pics... I plan to add detail shots of mine with my build log...

Rob
 

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To be honest, I think the ultrasonic sensors are a waste if you have a good glass breakage sensor. It's very unlikely that someone is going to climb into your car without opening the door which would set off the alarm if the glass breakage sensor doesn't work. Heck, if you want mine, I'll pull them out of the car. They are a far bigger PITA than benefit.
 

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i did a viper 5901 2 way 6spd alarm, keyless, and remote start with

backup battery,

2 sirens under hood,
1 piez0 inside
ultrasonic radar for inside cabin, dual mic adjust sensitivity
starter kill

triggers on door, hood, and trunk,

tilt sensor built into factory alarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i did a viper 5901 2 way 6spd alarm, keyless, and remote start with

backup battery,

2 sirens under hood,
1 piez0 inside
ultrasonic radar for inside cabin, dual mic adjust sensitivity
starter kill

triggers on door, hood, and trunk,

tilt sensor built into factory alarm.
Thanks for the input, but I don't see how this helps ANYONE, including me?? :D
 

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I also think the 509U isn't needed since you are running a glass break sensor. Like said before...if they break your window to get in, the glass sensor will go off, if they break in through a door then the door trigger will go off. I'm willing to bet that the 509U will never set off your alarm since those other two sensors will be hooked up. As far as the piezo sirens setting off the alarm, you could always use the horn honk output (off a relay of course) to run those and set it so they only go off on full trigger. That will eliminate any possiblility of them falsing the alarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Aaron, great list of stuff...

I agree on the piezo's... the more the better. Also, use the Alarming out for the piezo's to avoid the warn-away falsing.

The 1 thing I love about my Clifford Matrix Responder is that it too has the built in turbo timer function that is adjustable from the remote.

the Ultrasonic sensor designed to sense changes in cabin/interior pressure. Its a good sensor, but its not very adjustable, as I remember. I am a huge fan of the 2-stage proximity/radar sensors. The warn away is on the impact. The 2-stage radar allows you to set interior & exterior perimeters/parameters to your taste, where you are parked, weather etc.. they used to have an attractive console/dash mounted control pad. Not sure if they still do. I would NOT use the DEI version of the Radar sensor, as it is RF based & lacks the DSP used in the Clifford Proximity unit.

Be sure to mount the back up battery where YOU (not a theif) can get to it fairly easily for servicing... I made that mistake on my F150. They are lead-acid style batteries, so they do really need mounted to vent outside.. I bought plastic electronics project box that was just big enough. then ran a 3/8" vacuum hose through the floor.

As its commonly said, install is everything. Having an experienced Directed installer is HUGE. You got lucky on that one.

last thing, LED's LOTS OF THEM... I have my main one installed on the bottom of my rear view mirror. aiming toward the dash top. When its dark out, it lights up the entire front compartment. When I take the car apart (again) for the deadening, I plan to put the Electro-Luminescent flat badges on the 2 front windows or at least 1-LED per door top. Just put them on a relay off the main LED output.

My F150 had one on each of the 4 door panel tops, one in each white back up lens on the bed sides, one in each lower corner on the headlights/markers, the under mirror in the interior.. lol... it lit up a 2-car parking area around the truck...

good luck.. take lots of pics... I plan to add detail shots of mine with my build log...

Rob
Rob, thanks....

First off, you know Subies DON'T need a TT, right? That's what the fluid res, on top of the motor is for.. It fills as it warms and drains as it cools.. cooling the turbo bearing in the process..

I don't understand..

I would NOT use the DEI version of the Radar sensor, as it is RF based & lacks the DSP used in the Clifford Proximity unit.
Aren't they the same? DEI?

So the Directed Ultrasonic sensor is better left alone? (509u)


Thanks again Rob
 

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No, i didn't realize the TT wasn't needed. I am not running it on the WRX anyway... I just like the feature..LOL

Even though DEI owns both... look @ CLifford's website under accessories & read the detailed info... TOTALLy different.. You definitely want the Clifford.

I don't feel you need the Ultrasonic AND the glass sensor. I would run the Glass Sensor always. Skip the Ultrasonic & if you want another layer of protection, get the Clifford Proximity Sensor.

Oh.. in your OP... I would get the Main Unit where ever they guarantee you a warranty, even though you are technically self installing it.. Be sure there is a receipt. The small parts... where ever. I have found Best buy will sell the sensors & such over the counter, but they are pricey. The trick is many places won't sell DEI-Family alarms & accessories uninstalled. But if you have a receipt, you can get warranty service through the DEI dealer network... you might have to be reimbursed for labor charges.

I say shop around, get the best "authorized price" on the main unit & best overall price on the accessories.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again Rob,

I got the main unit from where my brother used to work, so it's purchased authorized and I don't even need to file the receipt, cause they do...lol..!!

so, you recomend nixing the US sensor.. ok, i'm down with that.. I would like the prox sensor though, to keep people off the car if possible.. lol..

The brain has a shock sensor, does it not? So, on top of that I can add the glas break and the Prox.. yes?

FYI, i've done a bunch of installs, and repaired hundereds of HU's and never ONCE have I so much as touched an alarm... lol..
 

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Whether or not you buy the alarm "authorized"...unless it's also installed by an "authorized" DEI dealer/installer...you get no warranty.
 

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^^^ true... but you'd be surprised where you can get serviced. AND his installer is a DEI trained installer... so... best be safe... buy it authorized. That way i the unlikely event there is a problem with a brain or part... it can be sent in to DEI for repair/replacement.

Rob
 

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Aaron, I did an 08 WRX 2 weeks ago, and my installer got frustrated with using a solenoid on the trunk pop. I ended taking over and used a high powered DEI 524N instead on the bottom latch and it worked like a charm. If set up right, the actuator will go back to its original state without having to pulse it back the other way.

Also txwrxwagon is right, even though there's several brands under the DEI umbrella, some of the components are built different. Viper, Python, Avital may carry the same components but Clifford often have a line of their own.

Be sure your brother sets up your trunk and hood pin with your alarm on top of the door pins. Back up battery and siren is priority over the other sensors. Other than that, you should be fine with the extras.
 

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Thanks VEstax, I was hoping you'd chime in...

One thing DEI didn't f*ck up in its acquisition binge, was Clifford. Clifford has shared most of its technologies with the DEI brands, however they have kept the absolute best technology for the "premium" level. Clifford benfited from improved remote range (the #1 achillies heel of the original Clifford lines) & better marketing & support.

I have only owned Clifford alarms. They have never let me down.

I will take Ves's advice as well, I have been wanting to do hatch release on my WRX wagon & just haven't done it.. I will look @ the 524n myself.

Rob
 

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The Clifford RSX 3.3X, Viper 5701, and python 872 are all the same except different transmitters. So the OP's system does not really change depending on which Directed brand he uses.

I installed the RSX 3.3X on my G35 and love it. And yes, the shock sensor is built right into the brain on the responder LE's. I don't have any experience with the add-on modules though. Also nice that they include most of the relays right in the brain, not a ton of extra wiring needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Aaron, I did an 08 WRX 2 weeks ago, and my installer got frustrated with using a solenoid on the trunk pop. I ended taking over and used a high powered DEI 524N instead on the bottom latch and it worked like a charm. If set up right, the actuator will go back to its original state without having to pulse it back the other way.

Also txwrxwagon is right, even though there's several brands under the DEI umbrella, some of the components are built different. Viper, Python, Avital may carry the same components but Clifford often have a line of their own.

Be sure your brother sets up your trunk and hood pin with your alarm on top of the door pins. Back up battery and siren is priority over the other sensors. Other than that, you should be fine with the extras.
Thank you Sir, I too was wondering when you would see this...

So I alredy have the 522t trunk poper, so, i will likely use it.. my old RS used the same popper.. It can't be THAT hard.. lol... I'll deffinilty go over the options with my brother... I told him to think of the install he always wanted to do and we'll do it... :D

Hood and trunk without a doubt, I wouldn't have it any other way... be silly not to... lol.. thanks though...

One thing DEI didn't f*ck up in its acquisition binge, was Clifford. Clifford has shared most of its technologies with the DEI brands, however they have kept the absolute best technology for the "premium" level. Clifford benfited from improved remote range (the #1 achillies heel of the original Clifford lines) & better marketing & support.

I have only owned Clifford alarms. They have never let me down.

I will take Ves's advice as well, I have been wanting to do hatch release on my WRX wagon & just haven't done it.. I will look @ the 524n myself.
Yeah, i've always ran with Clifford myself.. I'm trying to think what my old RS had in it... had the 4 button remotes with the "shift" button on the side.. Had the same thing in my VW prior to that as well...

The Clifford RSX 3.3X, Viper 5701, and python 872 are all the same except different transmitters. So the OP's system does not really change depending on which Directed brand he uses.

I installed the RSX 3.3X on my G35 and love it. And yes, the shock sensor is built right into the brain on the responder LE's. I don't have any experience with the add-on modules though. Also nice that they include most of the relays right in the brain, not a ton of extra wiring needed.
Thanks for the insight.. !
 

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The Clifford RSX 3.3X, Viper 5701, and python 872 are all the same except different transmitters. So the OP's system does not really change depending on which Directed brand he uses.

I installed the RSX 3.3X on my G35 and love it. And yes, the shock sensor is built right into the brain on the responder LE's. I don't have any experience with the add-on modules though. Also nice that they include most of the relays right in the brain, not a ton of extra wiring needed.
Ok... I am going to tone this back before I post it... lest I live up to my arrogant-ass reputation....

1.) no one... NO ONE said that the BASE alarm changed anything between the DEI family... I said that CLIFFORD benefited from the take over in BETTER remote technology & in kind DEI's brands got the influx of Clifford's superior technologies.

2.) CLIFFORD Proximity sensors use a DSP technology that is RESERVED for the CLIFFORD line... FACT...

3.) DEI's CLEAR cheap RF based unit is CRAP... its a piece of baby-poop that shouldn't be sold to a Jeep or convertible owner.

I'm not sure where your comment is coming from... No one ever argued that the Clifford/Viper/Python ALARMS/Remote starts varied within the brand or the DEI family...

Oh & the relays are not on board they are in a separate module called an XCR (extreme capacity relay satellite) & they have a harness between the Main brain & the XCR...

Ok... other points...

1.) if the impact is built into the brain.... A... STUPID design... B.. get a Magnetic Reasonance sensor from Clifford & put it on the steering colum of an IMprezza or the firewall right above it.

2.) the US is out. Keep the glass. Keep the Piezo's, I would look @ the cliff. Prox sensor... preferably if it still has the remote control unit...

I am sure I missed something....

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Rob,

Would you mind terribly, just re-doing my "list" to cover all of this, i'm so confused right now.. lol... I lost something somewhere... lol...

Thanks a bunch man..
 

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Hi all,

It's time.... time to finally start my install... First I need to buy some sensors...

I have a Python Responder LE base unit and I'm looking to add these add-on sensors..

530t- Window moduleKEEP
520t- Backup batteryKEEP
515r- Backup battery sirenKEEP
513t- Mini Piezo siren x2 (or 3 or 4
) KEEP as many as you can
509u- Ultrasonic sensorTOSS
506t- Glass break sensorKEEP
ADD Clifford's Dual-stage Proximity Sensor
What I would like to know is, an expert opinion on what I have on the list... What might work better, or differently for my app..

I have a VERY confident installer lined up for this (my brother, ran a Directed based install shop for 5-6yrs) so the install isn't an issue, but, he's been doing other things for a few years so, the up-to-the-minute for him is gone..

Thanks in advance for any and all input...

Aaron..

PS.. of someone could "direct" me to a place to get these cheaper, please do so... right now I had a combination of Amazon and Audio Discounters working for me, but I'm finding other various sites with better prices.. am I better off, picking things from all over the net, or buying in one spot??
there ya go.. hopefully the red worked right.

Rob
 
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